Best Nano Sealant

[Notes]

Was your installer an authorized installer installer? If so you do have a warranty. I doubt that there's no sign of it left. Did you maintain it properly? I've used reload and hydro and mine is still going strong. Take yours back to the shop that did the install. Have you applied anything over the CQuartz other than reload or hydro? Your installer should have gone over how to maintain it with you?

Yes he is an authorized installer and I received a warranty card/sticker etc. but lost confidense in the guy, + it's a 2 hour drive up there and need to leave the car behind for 2 or 3 days. (so I need to find a ride back & forth as well)

Maintenance is a wash every 2 or 3 weeks done by myself and a C-quartz UK installer.

Method used; rinse, foam gun with shampoo & iron x, rinse again, Iron x the wheels, then 2 bucket wash, dry with drying towel and apply reload every 4 washes like advised. In the end the scratches keep pilling up and when the car is dry before adding reload it has a mat like finish that I really don't like.

The detailer who helps me out in his after hours also agrees that the c-quartz has no effect anymore when he uses the hi pressure washer or water hose to rinse. The water beading is just not there unless I add the reload again like I did 2 days ago. Although it beads again after using reload, yet the water doesn't sheet off unless I'm driving and leaves an oily like residue around the edges where the water used to be, not very attractive when having a closer look at it.

My conclusion ATM is that c-quartz & reload is just not the right product for this particular paint... black/ebony. The initial installer had the same impression from the research he did before applying it, he said Ford pulled the paint out of production for a reason, whatever reason that may be. But if the customer wants c-quartz on it he can't refuse so he did apply it. I'm merely talking about the Black Ebony paint, can't speak for any other colors though.

Sponsored

 

[Voo Doo]

$1150 for Modesta
$4500 for ClearGuard Nano SR

The above includes clay bar and paint correction before any work is done. That's also a negotiated price. I do a lot of negotiation for work, and have come to believe that everything is negotiable. I'm getting almost $2K off of my original quote.

It's still expensive. But as I aim to have the car forever and I also intend to drive it, I'm going to enjoy the car more with it being protected.

clay bar and paint correction...what do they actually do in the "paint correction" dept?????

 

[Voo Doo]

Done the old fashion way. Wet Sand, Cut, Swirl remover, Polish, Wax, then a little liquid Flash...stunning. Not a fan of this new chemical route. Sorry.:cheers:

 

[PonyGrrrl]

Yes he is an authorized installer and I received a warranty card/sticker etc. but lost confidense in the guy, + it's a 2 hour drive up there and need to leave the car behind for 2 or 3 days. (so I need to find a ride back & forth as well)

Maintenance is a wash every 2 or 3 weeks done by myself and a C-quartz UK installer.

Method used; rinse, foam gun with shampoo & iron x, rinse again, Iron x the wheels, then 2 bucket wash, dry with drying towel and apply reload every 4 washes like advised. In the end the scratches keep pilling up and when the car is dry before adding reload it has a mat like finish that I really don't like.

The detailer who helps me out in his after hours also agrees that the c-quartz has no effect anymore when he uses the hi pressure washer or water hose to rinse. The water beading is just not there unless I add the reload again like I did 2 days ago. Although it beads again after using reload, yet the water doesn't sheet off unless I'm driving and leaves an oily like residue around the edges where the water used to be, not very attractive when having a closer look at it.

My conclusion ATM is that c-quartz & reload is just not the right product for this particular paint... black/ebony. The initial installer had the same impression from the research he did before applying it, he said Ford pulled the paint out of production for a reason, whatever reason that may be. But if the customer wants c-quartz on it he can't refuse so he did apply it. I'm merely talking about the Black Ebony paint, can't speak for any other colors though.

That's so weird and unfortunate. I'm really sorry to hear that about the coating and your paint. Mine is Magnetic and I was surprised when my detailer finished the CQuartz application on mine he commented on how good the paint is on mine. He barely needed to do any correction prior to application and 8 months later it's holding up great. I took it by his shop today and under the lights in his shop every little paint flaw is noticeable and the finish is as flawless as the day that the coating was applied. Neither of us could see any micro scratches visible to the naked eye from any angle. I'm neurotic about washing it and not marring the paint. Thanks to all the great advice on these forums and from my detailer, I've learned a lot on how to do a proper two bucket wash with grit guard. Only my detailer or myself washes my car and I quit the no touch washes months ago. I'm finally confident to hand wash it myself now and he's going to install an air conpressor in my trunk with a nice long hose so I can blow the water out of all the silly crevices that water hides in.

 

[Notes]

That's so weird and unfortunate. I'm really sorry to hear that about the coating and your paint. Mine is Magnetic and I was surprised when my detailer finished the CQuartz application on mine he commented on how good the paint is on mine. He barely needed to do any correction prior to application and 8 months later it's holding up great. I took it by his shop today and under the lights in his shop every little paint flaw is noticeable and the finish is as flawless as the day that the coating was applied. Neither of us could see any micro scratches visible to the naked eye from any angle. I'm neurotic about washing it and not marring the paint. Thanks to all the great advice on these forums and from my detailer, I've learned a lot on how to do a proper two bucket wash with grit guard. Only my detailer or myself washes my car and I quit the no touch washes months ago. I'm finally confident to hand wash it myself now and he's going to install an air conpressor in my trunk with a nice long hose so I can blow the water out of all the silly crevices that water hides in.

The air compressor sounds interesting when not taking to much space!
Either way I will have to redo the coating, c-quartz or another as by now I'm not only dealing with a failed C-quartz install but also new scratches from unfortunate events,
like last week someone scratched the side of my bumper and my door, and on Sunday I got hit by a parked car in front of me with a tow-hook... luckily he/she only ruined my license plate and left one thick scratch with tiny cracks in the paint.. so polishing it will be

 

[PonyGrrrl]

The air compressor sounds interesting when not taking to much space!
Either way I will have to redo the coating, c-quartz or another as by now I'm not only dealing with a failed C-quartz install but also new scratches from unfortunate events,
like last week someone scratched the side of my bumper and my door, and on Sunday I got hit by a parked car in front of me with a tow-hook... luckily he/she only ruined my license plate and left one thick scratch with tiny cracks in the paint.. so polishing it will be

Wow, man, really sorry to hear that. I hate those stupid tow hitches on trucks, I wish that they would remove the hitch when it's not in use. It's such a PITA for others because it adds more length to vehicles that are already taking up so much room in a parking lot.

 

[Pa-fatboy]

I'm getting Modesta BC-05 on top of a full ClearGuard Nano SR wrap. Modesta BC-06 (high temp) will go on the wheels.

Why these products? Because the best detailer and installer in my city has lots of good experience with both, and I've seen the results. In another city I might chose XPEL and Opti-Coat as that's what the installer knows.

The practical differences between products are very small. The differences between installers can be very big.

+1 to Spacebird. I keep hearing about CQuartz and all the other nano coatings. I had my car topped off with Modesta in May. Since then, (at my installers recommendation) I use CarPro shampoo using a foam cannon and CarPro's Reload. Make sure to buy CarPro's edgeless microfiber towels. They are the best I've ever tested. According to my installer, the edgeless also helps cut down on possibility to create swirls while applying Reload.

Due yourselves a favor, Go to Modesta, find the dealer nearest you and give them a hard look. Most likely they are also getting the local super cars along with the Mustang / Camaro here and there.

$1,500 is about the minimum I'd expect to pay. Modesta is a higher price, but that's a small percent of the overall. You are paying for the time to prep. If you go for a budget $700 dollar deal, I wouldn't trust the prep at all. Even new cars.

It's your car, do as you like! Just do not whine and blame the product in a year or two when it was a shady installation you got a budget deal on and and paid less then all us other suckers. just my humble opinion. I am expecting negative reviews to begin rolling in starting in about 6 months. Poor vendors and professional detailers that had to cut corners when they new better, but needed the business Also, If you do not keep it up properly...

 

[Jww92201]

Yes he is an authorized installer and I received a warranty card/sticker etc. but lost confidense in the guy, + it's a 2 hour drive up there and need to leave the car behind for 2 or 3 days. (so I need to find a ride back & forth as well)

Maintenance is a wash every 2 or 3 weeks done by myself and a C-quartz UK installer.

Method used; rinse, foam gun with shampoo & iron x, rinse again, Iron x the wheels, then 2 bucket wash, dry with drying towel and apply reload every 4 washes like advised. In the end the scratches keep pilling up and when the car is dry before adding reload it has a mat like finish that I really don't like.

The detailer who helps me out in his after hours also agrees that the c-quartz has no effect anymore when he uses the hi pressure washer or water hose to rinse. The water beading is just not there unless I add the reload again like I did 2 days ago. Although it beads again after using reload, yet the water doesn't sheet off unless I'm driving and leaves an oily like residue around the edges where the water used to be, not very attractive when having a closer look at it.

My conclusion ATM is that c-quartz & reload is just not the right product for this particular paint... black/ebony. The initial installer had the same impression from the research he did before applying it, he said Ford pulled the paint out of production for a reason, whatever reason that may be. But if the customer wants c-quartz on it he can't refuse so he did apply it. I'm merely talking about the Black Ebony paint, can't speak for any other colors though.

My car looks exactly the same as fatboy's above with CQuartz UK, I'll get around to taking pictures, I'm going to be going this week to my detailer to give my car a good one over and take pictures to showcase his work and the coating to try to bring more business to him, he really deserves It. however I only paid a fraction of what fatboy stated, and that Included paint work/light correction, I'm very meticulous about my car, I see the smallest things and It bothers me, especially Interior scratches In the oddest places... The guy who I go to Is just In an unfortunate area of business where everything Is seasonal and people are cheapskates so he can't charge what other people would charge for UK $700+ easily.

There Is a chance that your Installer either didn't properly prep your car prior to Install, or didn't let It sit on the car long enough to "Cure." which would explain It not sticking to the paint, the only other thing that would hurt your hydrophobic properties of the coating would be If you used ANY product with wax in it as it suffocates the coating and ruins it's benefits. You could try CarPro's Hydrofoam as a maintenance wash to bring back those hydrophobic properties, this stuff Is amazing. CQuartz should make your original Installer or another Installer of your choice re-do the coating as per warranty, they take these things seriously, however coatings are removed with abrasion, over time obviously.. UK Is a lot harder than finest which Is why I went with It as my car Is a DD and not a show car or garage queen.

http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-hydro-foam.html

Anyway this Is how I've been maintaining my car since getting It coated, and mind you my car sits out In the sun/dirt 24/7 so even with the coating I still clean It up every 3-5 days.

I've Been using a side kick to blow all the dirt off the car followed by Shine Supply ecoshine rinse less wash with a final wipe of Adams detail spray to maintain my CQuartz. Ecoshine Is leaps and bounds ahead of optium no rinse (which I also had and tried.)

https://shinesupply.com/products/eco-shine-waterless-wash

It Is recommended by my detailer (Approved Installer.) that you should only apply reload annually or If you really wanted too, every 3 - 6 months however shine supply also makes a better alternative which Is called clutch, It costs a bit more but It's amazing stuff. Spray on dry, level It out, It'll be kind of gooey, just make sure you spread It around, Let It flash and then buff It off.. amazing results.

https://shinesupply.com/collections/coatings/products/clutch-16oz

 

[Pa-fatboy]

Is(nano coatings) the real deal or, like many things over the years, just a great coat of wax/sealant? Would there be a noticeable increase in depth and reduction in orange peel? I was quoted 1,500 to polish a brand new Shelby and apply the CQuartz, I was hoping 500-600 range.

Depends on what you are looking for. Worry/Work Free Exterior, Shine, Depth, Water Repellent? imho, it is working for what I need it to do so far. One of my cars, I went all out, paid the entrance fee and had the best (imo) coating professionally installed. I have a second car, I did the prep on. I also applied the nano coating, on a third car, same thing, different vendor. On tow other cars, I am leaving them for the tried and true wash and wax as normal. So far, I am not disappointed with any choice. But, I am only 6 months into it really.

Mine is Magnetic and I was surprised when my detailer finished the CQuartz application on mine he commented on how good the paint is on mine. He barely needed to do any correction prior to application and 8 months later it's holding up great.

Mine is Magnetic as well and has a very hard surface. So far, I haven't had much paint correction needed. (owned since Oct. '15) My installer said the same thing about the paint yours did to you.

C'mon guys....is Notes the only one with a story here?? This is a lot of coin for a product that may or may not even last?? Yellow or peel ?? Anymore comments? Anyone had the application for over a year, maybe two yrs ?? Like to hear from you.clay bar and paint correction...what do they actually do in the "paint correction" dept?????

So basically, we're looking at a product that costs $750 year ( if you can find a shop to do it for $1500) a tad steep for most of the guys here I'm sure!

That's probably half of the insurance for the car!!!! Oh well, a little time, a few beer, some wax, listen to some tunes....maybe 10 bucks!!

Further.....if you cough up the initial $$$ for a wet sand and polish.....the future maintenance would be much cheaper and you could save the money to buy more parts!!

OK ......so we're still looking at $750 a year......right???? Considering you take proper care and wash your car in a respectable manner?? Still insane "forever" costs !! That's all I'm asking !! A coating, properly applied and faithfully maintained.....costs $750 a year!! YES.....or NO ???? Simple question.

Done the old fashion way. Wet Sand, Cut, Swirl remover, Polish, Wax, then a little liquid Flash...stunning. Not a fan of this new chemical route. Sorry.

Voo Doo.. brother.. I can't decide if you are sincerely curious, looking for a fight, or about to get religious about car care on us.

First off, the pictures of your car look great. Outstanding work. In one of the pictures, it looks like you might have a Griots polisher? I do understand the loyalty to wax and sealers. We have both been fine tuning our work for a long time. I'm sure you have the same kind of purified water system to provide pure clean water into the buckets and hose to perform the car wash as I do. Everything to be a Pro and details cars for a living except for the shingle hanging outside our garages.

So, I think we can agree that wax and sealers degrade and will leave the paint in a matter of weeks. We should measure the duration in weeks anyway. Most waxes and sealers will not last more than 8-10 weeks. Nano tech sealer are not different, they just last longer. They can be measured in not lasting more than 8-24 months. A huge range, I know.. same for waxes, it would take to much time to list and categorize them all.

In both cases of wax and nano coatings, the base of what it is being applied on, will make a HUGE difference in how long it will last. Doing paint correction and a detailed cleaning matters. Furthermore, in both cases, it also makes a difference in what the upkeep schedule, process and product used is.

You asked what do they actually do in the "paint correction" department. I believe it is a lot like what you called out in your routine as, "Wet Sand, Cut, Swirl remover, Polish". Correction is all about removing swirls, contamination in the paint, usually by claying. Fixing small paint chips, or other paint issues that can be sanded out without going down to metal. Even paintless dent removal. It is about prepping that paint for the Nano coating.Once coated, it will be a big hairy mess to correct anything until the coasting.

You mentioned $750 a year for upkeep. I really can not find the source who said the upkeep year after year is that much. I am only 6 months into my personal testing. I am not planning on spending that much on my nano coated cars. The CarPro Shampoo and Reload are fairly expense. I spent quite a bit, maybe $120 to get large amount of both of them this year. I know that will last more than a year, but I'm no where near $750.

Here's what I can tell you. On my Nano Coated cars, especially the Modesta, my Mustang looks great all the time. It greats dirty, but you can still see the deep shine and brilliance walking towards it in the parking lot at work. You can't really see it's dirty until 10 feet. The car does stay cleaner longer. When it gets rained on at work, the water repels decent, not 100%. It does dry leaving small water rings. Washing it, using the foam cannon, it cleans up fast. Bugs, water rings, dirt, and brake dust all repel away quick and do not leave residue during the wash.

Do not get me wrong. I LOVE to detail my cars. There is just a few things hobby-wise I like better than a day in the garage cleaning my toys. I have good lighting, a refrigerator with lots of beer, a nice Bose sound system in the garage, with a really good play list of 60's and 70's southern rock. The smell of a good carnuba wax is amazing mixed with a little gas and oil smell. They should make an After Shave like that!

I used Jetseal 109 from Chemical guys on mine. Very happy with the results.

I used jetseal to get my Mustang through the Pennsylvania Winter when I bought it in Oct 2015. I ended up putting it on all my cars. I like it a lot.

Its the newest "fad" on the block. No one has convinced me that this does anything substantial to be $1000-1500+ lighter pocket.

I bet $100 the average person you put one of these nano coatings in an unlabeled bottle and some clear liquid wax and apply both, the average person wouldn't know which is which and they both bead water. I laugh at the Youtube videos showing beading properties of these coatings like it's some miracle. And neither provides and significant scratch protections whatsoever (if you think 2 microns, 4% or less the thickness of a human hair, does then you need a serious math/physics lesson).

People just have a "set it and forget it" mentality and think coating is some miracle product based on the hype of the market/detailers. And detailers push it hard because look at some of the prices they get for it; $1000-1500 a car.

Few who spent the $ to get it done will EVER admit they were wrong though to defend their purchase, and have bought into the hype of the market/detailer told them without ANY evidence other than water beading (like any decent sealant/wax does too)

Hey Blk, I completely support your thought that the regular person off the street driving their Ford Fusion, Chevy Malibu, Honda Accord or Toyota Corolla will get or care about the difference. I keep my sisters car clean. For her, I do the paint correction, polish, wax and seal twice a year. In between she uses car washes. I wouldn't even suggest a nano coating to her until I see one completely safe from car wash chemicals. She likes to she shinny and clean when she looks at it, doesn't want to spend much, and doesn't really care to much. She has other thing more important to her. And for her, that's how it should be.

I do beleive wax is dead. Long live the nanocoatings. I think that is why retailers are getting into it and advertising it. Most car dealers have some type of nano coating offering in the financing sell part of the purchase.

I understand your position. I love the old school methods and processes. I am also experimenting with the new and can say, I am very impressed so far. My car stays cleaner for longer periods, Does not require paint correction (swirls and Claying) and washing it is MUCH easier. tar, bugs and brake dust, come right off the car and wheels with easy foam cannon wash. I did not have the windows or chrome exhaust tips coated as I wanted to watch everything else first.

I also have (my son does anyway) a Ford Focus ST I bought new in 2005 that is red. That car looks exactly like it did on day 2. That is the best car I have ever purchased. My son knows when he is done with it, to give it back to me and I'll buy it. That car has been waxed it's whole life and is perfect. So, nothing wrong with wax, for sure.

we are always looking for that next thing that lasts longer and takes less work. From what I have experienced and also read, nanocoating is that for wax. Don't focus on the initial cost, look at what it does and see for yourself.

The Modesta coasting is amazing. I have NEVER seen a shine as deep, as brilliant and as clear before. The pictures of my car are unedited. The contrast is high as it was a bright day.

 

[Notes]

My car looks exactly the same as fatboy's above with CQuartz UK, I'll get around to taking pictures, I'm going to be going this week to my detailer to give my car a good one over and take pictures to showcase his work and the coating to try to bring more business to him, he really deserves It. however I only paid a fraction of what fatboy stated, and that Included paint work/light correction, I'm very meticulous about my car, I see the smallest things and It bothers me, especially Interior scratches In the oddest places... The guy who I go to Is just In an unfortunate area of business where everything Is seasonal and people are cheapskates so he can't charge what other people would charge for UK $700+ easily.

There Is a chance that your Installer either didn't properly prep your car prior to Install, or didn't let It sit on the car long enough to "Cure." which would explain It not sticking to the paint, the only other thing that would hurt your hydrophobic properties of the coating would be If you used ANY product with wax in it as it suffocates the coating and ruins it's benefits. You could try CarPro's Hydrofoam as a maintenance wash to bring back those hydrophobic properties, this stuff Is amazing. CQuartz should make your original Installer or another Installer of your choice re-do the coating as per warranty, they take these things seriously, however coatings are removed with abrasion, over time obviously.. UK Is a lot harder than finest which Is why I went with It as my car Is a DD and not a show car or garage queen.

http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-hydro-foam.html

Anyway this Is how I've been maintaining my car since getting It coated, and mind you my car sits out In the sun/dirt 24/7 so even with the coating I still clean It up every 3-5 days.

I've Been using a side kick to blow all the dirt off the car followed by Shine Supply ecoshine rinse less wash with a final wipe of Adams detail spray to maintain my CQuartz. Ecoshine Is leaps and bounds ahead of optium no rinse (which I also had and tried.)

https://shinesupply.com/products/eco-shine-waterless-wash

It Is recommended by my detailer (Approved Installer.) that you should only apply reload annually or If you really wanted too, every 3 - 6 months however shine supply also makes a better alternative which Is called clutch, It costs a bit more but It's amazing stuff. Spray on dry, level It out, It'll be kind of gooey, just make sure you spread It around, Let It flash and then buff It off.. amazing results.

https://shinesupply.com/collections/coatings/products/clutch-16oz

My guess is that it went wrong during the prep at some point as I had the car cure for 3 day's at the garage I used for the install, After that it rained for a couple day's in a row and saw the hydrophobic effect fade away after day 4 of rain. During the first wash I could still feel the smoothness of the c-quartz though, but that only happened once.

I was present during the install and I had several moments where I thought to myself why isn't he doing this step etc. and that started at the beginning already when not using the foam gun. Claying was done with the CG yellow and ecomart that contains carnauba wax, then the paint correction/polish and decreased it before applying the c-quartz in 2 layers. That said, all of this still took about 14hours of work though and it looked awesome.

CQuartz should make your original Installer or another Installer of your choice re-do the coating as per warranty, they take these things seriously, however coatings are removed with abrasion, over time obviously.. UK Is a lot harder than finest which Is why I went with It as my car Is a DD and not a show car or garage queen.

When receiving the warranty card it was mentioned that this basically gives me warranty on the services in case it went wrong. But I don't think I can have it installed again by another certified installer without the first one paying for it. The company of C-quartz definitively won't pay for it think...

 

[Jww92201]

My guess is that it went wrong during the prep at some point as I had the car cure for 3 day's at the garage I used for the install, After that it rained for a couple day's in a row and saw the hydrophobic effect fade away after day 4 of rain. During the first wash I could still feel the smoothness of the c-quartz though, but that only happened once.

I was present during the install and I had several moments where I thought to myself why isn't he doing this step etc. and that started at the beginning already when not using the foam gun. Claying was done with the CG yellow and ecomart that contains carnauba wax, then the paint correction/polish and decreased it before applying the c-quartz in 2 layers. That said, all of this still took about 14hours of work though and it looked awesome.



When receiving the warranty card it was mentioned that this basically gives me warranty on the services in case it went wrong. But I don't think I can have it installed again by another certified installer without the first one paying for it. The company of C-quartz definitively won't pay for it think...

I just spoke with my detailer and he said that finest is a very exclusive coating to get approved for, not every run of the mill guy can get approved.

 

[Notes]

I just spoke with my detailer and he said that finest is a very exclusive coating to get approved for, not every run of the mill guy can get approved.

That's true, otherwise you can't even order it and give the warranty certificate.
I know someone else who's an authorised installer and he can only get the C-Quartz UK.

 

[Jww92201]

That's true, otherwise you can't even order it and give the warranty certificate.
I know someone else who's an authorised installer and he can only get the C-Quartz UK.

Well my point was and he agreed with me that the manufacture should cover re application of service from an installer near you or provide the previous installer what he needs to right the wrong. Obviously you'll have to cover the paint correction you need due to unfortunate events but I do urge you to get UK rather than finest especially if your car is a daily driver. Why you might ask? Well they're changed the formula multiple times for finest, but UK has been untouched since release and purist detailers believe that UK is the far superior coating and much harder.

But still you paid for finest and technically you didn't get finest, your guy did something wrong or someone did, once you wipe the coating on and off its 100% bonded to the surface, maybe a bad batch of the coating? They do have a shelf life.

And every detailer is different, even with UK my guy is a warranty on his own towards me, if my coating were to fail or diminish he'd fix it free of charge.

Also prep is usually strip everything off surface, foam wash, iron X, dry (usually by filtered vac similar to side kick,) clay, foam wash, dry, wet sand(if needed), cut in quarter intervals for maximum correction, polish (1,2,3,4,5 step correction depending on severity) that includes all trim, plastic etc, side kick to blow off the polish dust, light wipe with a non abrasive A/P, and apply coating in quarter intervals, for the hood this is about 20 sections or so, and all trim, glass, wheels, etc.

So yeah it's a lot of work and generally you let the car sit overnight in the shop to make sure the coating cures and hardens up.

 

[Notes]

Well my point was and he agreed with me that the manufacture should cover re application of service from an installer near you or provide the previous installer what he needs to right the wrong. Obviously you'll have to cover the paint correction you need due to unfortunate events but I do urge you to get UK rather than finest especially if your car is a daily driver. Why you might ask? Well they're changed the formula multiple times for finest, but UK has been untouched since release and purist detailers believe that UK is the far superior coating and much harder.

But still you paid for finest and technically you didn't get finest, your guy did something wrong or someone did, once you wipe the coating on and off its 100% bonded to the surface, maybe a bad batch of the coating? They do have a shelf life.

And every detailer is different, even with UK my guy is a warranty on his own towards me, if my coating were to fail or diminish he'd fix it free of charge.

Also prep is usually strip everything off surface, foam wash, iron X, dry (usually by filtered vac similar to side kick,) clay, foam wash, dry, wet sand(if needed), cut in quarter intervals for maximum correction, polish (1,2,3,4,5 step correction depending on severity) that includes all trim, plastic etc, side kick to blow off the polish dust, light wipe with a non abrasive A/P, and apply coating in quarter intervals, for the hood this is about 20 sections or so, and all trim, glass, wheels, etc.

So yeah it's a lot of work and generally you let the car sit overnight in the shop to make sure the coating cures and hardens up.

The finest came out a fresh unopened box, maybe I should get in touch with the manufacturer as I lost confidence in the installer, hi profile or not... my confidence is gone.

In the prep steps you mentioned I see a few steps he didn't do, like dry vac, foam wash after claying, after claying he used a degreaser and then 1 step car polish, then applied the c-quartz in 2 layers. And I let it cure for 3 days at the garage.

Thx for the info btw!

 

[Blk2015GT]

Hey Blk, I completely support your thought that the regular person off the street driving their Ford Fusion, Chevy Malibu, Honda Accord or Toyota Corolla will get or care about the difference. I keep my sisters car clean. For her, I do the paint correction, polish, wax and seal twice a year. In between she uses car washes. I wouldn't even suggest a nano coating to her until I see one completely safe from car wash chemicals. She likes to she shinny and clean when she looks at it, doesn't want to spend much, and doesn't really care to much. She has other thing more important to her. And for her, that's how it should be.

I do beleive wax is dead. Long live the nanocoatings. I think that is why retailers are getting into it and advertising it. Most car dealers have some type of nano coating offering in the financing sell part of the purchase.

I understand your position. I love the old school methods and processes. I am also experimenting with the new and can say, I am very impressed so far. My car stays cleaner for longer periods, Does not require paint correction (swirls and Claying) and washing it is MUCH easier. tar, bugs and brake dust, come right off the car and wheels with easy foam cannon wash. I did not have the windows or chrome exhaust tips coated as I wanted to watch everything else first.

I also have (my son does anyway) a Ford Focus ST I bought new in 2005 that is red. That car looks exactly like it did on day 2. That is the best car I have ever purchased. My son knows when he is done with it, to give it back to me and I'll buy it. That car has been waxed it's whole life and is perfect. So, nothing wrong with wax, for sure.

we are always looking for that next thing that lasts longer and takes less work. From what I have experienced and also read, nanocoating is that for wax. Don't focus on the initial cost, look at what it does and see for yourself.

The Modesta coasting is amazing. I have NEVER seen a shine as deep, as brilliant and as clear before. The pictures of my car are unedited. The contrast is high as it was a bright day.

I dont think traditional wax is near dead and the sales per year are probably many many many times in wax than nano coatings. Like 99 to 1 or more wax to coatings on every hundred cars you see on the road.

I guess Im young (35) old school and am ok polishing my own car once a year, doing sealant every 4 months and wax once a month. It's honestly not all that hard or time consuming if you get the right products that wipe on wipe off no residue. I guess Im not lazy though and like working on my car as its a hobby in itself.

The set it and forget it folks I get it. They want to hose their car off at the quarter car wash and look shiny; or live somewhere without a garage/driveway or ability to wash/detail.

I personally would not cough up $1000-1500+ for some "mystical" coating that if it was so good the manufacturer would cash in and spray it on as a paid option; from Focuses to Ferraris. If its as hydrophobic as a good coat of sealant and wax, and not any more durable against paint chips and swirling (which it's proven doesn't stop scratches, it may VERY slightly prevent the tiny ones and only slightly at that) then personally I have found zero justification spend the $?

I would rather spend $1000-1500 on PPF at that point and cover the front in Xpel which offers some real serious protection. Not I personally as I dont find on a run of the mill car they build 100k a year of that you get your money back using PPF when trading in as you can still get chips and dents under the PPF; and honestly dealers who take trades pay a local guy a few hundred bucks due to bulk volume to repray a panel if needed so they can re-sell. They dont care about a few chips when trading in as its expected on a few year old driven car (despite ohhh chips gotta knock your value down $500- it's a BS line) A GT350 or rarer/more expensive car would be another story obviously.

My personal thoughts are it is more hype than solid science. Nothing 2 nanometers thick is going to be any type of forcefield as some seem to think or led on to believe by the internet and their installer. And of course detailers push it hard, it's BIG bucks for them to do a coating install since it's 99% labor and a $60-80 bottle of coating (they may even get 2 cars out of)

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