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I don't think the extra 0.5" will make any difference to the shock. Here is a link to the camber arms. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-15-16-all-555-4123.html Here is a shot with the camber arms and just under 1 degrees neg.

I think it comes down to ride height based on what you have posted. The FRPP Track Handling Pack is going to give you an great set up for the street in terms of handling whilst retaining some level of comfort. But if you want it that bit lower add the Eibachs. Warning with the Eibachs, I had to...

I am only using the Track Struts with the Eibach Sportline springs (same as in your link), not the whole kit. I have aFe Sway Bars and a bunch of Steeda parts as listed in my signature. Here is the strut kit on its own...

I run the FR Track struts with Sportline springs, and they work extremely well together.

Toluene or Methylbenzene is a component of pump gas. Increasing the amount will increase the octane and will not harm you engine (it is anti-knock in properties) when done correctly. It has a octane rating of 114, so you need to do your own calculations on how much to add, based on how much you...

Did you put copper grease in the back of the new pads?

The Ford website says it is running both Port and Direct Injection. Not sure how that works, but the intake will definitely be different.

The design lines of the lower half of the front are terrible. On the '15 the lower line of the turn signal lights continues on with the upper of the lower grille. The '18 turn signal light is completely orphaned and doesn't line up with anything on the car. The softening of the aggressive...

It still works, but does get softer. Definitely worth it for the sound improvement. The center speaker ruins the system.

Both JRZs are 3 way adjustable. One is twintube and one is mono with an external canister. The Ridetech's are a true coilover in the rear where the JRZ is not. The JRZ has a more user friendly front camber adjustment than the Ridetech. From what you have said the cheaper JRZ might be more...

PZeros suck on the street. They need to be hot to work. Get rid of them.

I second that motion :)

If you remember that the bars work by the suspension effectively twisting the ends in opposite directions perpendicular the bar itself. As the car tries to role pushing one bar end up, whilst the other side is neutral or bending down. The holes give you more or less leverage, making it easier to...

I took my rear camber back to -0.9. They don't need much camber when we stiffen them up. Really helped with traction of the mark to. :thumbsup:

I had the same problem. I had to take out some rear camber (I had -2.3 degrees) and put the rear bar on the softest setting. Problem solved.

Hhhmm!! Decimal place doesn't seem to be in the right place maybe. If it was over one it would be about 4mm for the rear. The rear percentages seem a bit OTT as well.