BlownStang15
Well-Known Member
Hhhmm!! Decimal place doesn't seem to be in the right place maybe.
If it was over one it would be about 4mm for the rear.
The rear percentages seem a bit OTT as well.
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If it was over one it would be about 4mm for the rear.
The rear percentages seem a bit OTT as well.
Performance nut
Well-Known Member
With the decimals shifted, I plugged the numbers into the equation.
Front: equivalent to a 28.5mm solid bar.
Rear: equivalent to a 26mm solid bar.
I'm inclined to believe their numbers. They are significantly stiffer in the rear when compared to the PP bars.
Front: equivalent to a 28.5mm solid bar.
Rear: equivalent to a 26mm solid bar.
I'm inclined to believe their numbers. They are significantly stiffer in the rear when compared to the PP bars.
Brent Dalton
Sua Sponte
The car is pretty neutral with just a touch of oversteer(which I like). I also run 295 Hoosier R7's squared though as well, so it's not a apples to apples comparison. I am experiencing more corner exit oversteer than I'd like. I have picked up the BMR cradle lockout to see if it makes any difference. We'll see in the spring. Overall, I'm happy with my aFe/pfadt purchases.
BlownStang15
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem. I had to take out some rear camber (I had -2.3 degrees) and put the rear bar on the softest setting. Problem solved.
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Brent Dalton
Sua Sponte
I'm a -1.8 in the rear and on the softest setting as well. Softer rear shock settings and 2lbs lower on rear tires than front. I'm not overly concerned about it, just dialing in as time allows at this point.
BlownStang15
Well-Known Member
I took my rear camber back to -0.9. They don't need much camber when we stiffen them up. Really helped with traction of the mark to.
Brent Dalton
Sua Sponte
For me, anything under -1.5 in the rear and I start to see a diminishing return. Time to see what these BMR parts are all about and what effects they have. Putting on the adjustable sway bar end links as well.I took my rear camber back to -0.9. They don't need much camber when we stiffen them up. Really helped with traction of the mark to.
Rebellion
Well-Known Member
What's the point with adjustable end links? Does it achieve anything that a fixed one won't?
One can preload it...but that's not good. I understand having sturdier or stiffer end links, but why adjustable length?
Brent Dalton
Sua Sponte
It's to eliminate preload.
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Brent Dalton
Sua Sponte
Burkey, yep. That is the intent anyway. Sorry, I've been touch and go on the forums recently due to work. I'm hoping to get the car on a friend's lift/alignment rack with scales in the not too distant future. The car will be set up with end links disconnected. Once complete, they are adjusted and connected without preload. I have no illusions of the car being 50/50, but I'm just wanting to play with setting at this point to see what fine tuning I can do. Overall, I've been really surprised and happy with the handling of the car. It doesn't feel nearly as heavy on track as it is. 
BlownStang15
Well-Known Member
If you remember that the bars work by the suspension effectively twisting the ends in opposite directions perpendicular the bar itself. As the car tries to role pushing one bar end up, whilst the other side is neutral or bending down. The holes give you more or less leverage, making it easier to twist from the end hole to harder in the hole closest to the bend.
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