Why do I only get 7200 rpm instead of 7500?

[sms2022]

I just looked at some video from my 22 M1, redline starts at 7200 RPM, also a manual. Guessing it’s to give time to shift to avoid hitting the rev limiter, which I can confirm comes fast at that RPM as I have banged against it once or twice.

The last 300 RPM is kind of a moot point, as peak HP hits at 7k then levels off before falling.

https://www.automobile-catalog.com/...ustang_fastback_mach_1_6-speed.html#gsc.tab=0

Like others have said it’s not really a moot point when you consider gear rations and RPM drop.

Does the red part of your tach start at 7200 or are you hitting some sort of soft limiter like the engine starts pulling timing?

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[ShadesOfBloo]

I was researching this topic a few days ago. I can offer some threads of similar experiences, but I cannot confirm why things are the way they are.

The following discuss engine fuel cutoff and that it might be programmed or engineered to occur at 7200 in MT cars, 7500 in AT cars...

Not in my car. My stock 2020 GT, 6spd, revved to 7500rpm in its dynamometer test.

 

[ShadesOfBloo]

The last 300 RPM is kind of a moot point, as peak HP hits at 7k then levels off before falling.

https://www.automobile-catalog.com/...ustang_fastback_mach_1_6-speed.html#gsc.tab=0

I don't want to reach peak power and shift as soon as I can.
I want to rev through peak power, so that when I shift up and the RPMs drop, the new RPM level is as far up the power curve as possible.
And my dyno test says my maximum power was at 7120rpm. 7200rpm would be too damn soon to shift.

Also, as much as I like that Automobile Catalog, keep in mind their power and torque curves are approximations. They've got fine print at the top of their graph that says what software they used.
My real-world dyno graph doesn't go totally flat like theirs. The curve at the top is shallow, but still a curve.

 

[sachmo133]

I’m not sure if this was been answered.
That setting is for the shift lights and has no effect on the car. You can go way down if you want the car to left up at say 4500 rpm but the car will still rev on the way up. You set it where you want to shift. I set it to 7000 because I want to shift before I get to the limiter. The lights are different on each display set up.

 

[Pistol_91]

Mine revved to 7500 stock. Maybe the mach 1s are different.

 

[sms2022]

It sure if this was been answered.
That setting is for the shift lights and has no effect on the car. You can go way down if you want the car to left up at say 4500 rpm but the car will still rev on the way up. You set it where you want to shift. I set it to 7000 because I want to shift before I get to the limiter. The lights are different on each display set up.
[/QUOTE]
7100 for me. 7200 puts me into the limiter before I’m done shifting. 7100 is just perfect

 

[TonyT930]

An issue I can't figure out with my 22 Mach 1 is that the rev limit is at 7,200. That's how it's displayed in every mode and I've tested it and that's where the limiter is at. The 2018+ are supposed to rev to 7500. Even doing the power pack 3 on the gen 2's with Ford Procal will set the rpm to 7500. This car is out of GA. So does anyone have any idea how I access my missing 300 rpms?

Thanks,
Nickel

If makes no sense to bang it off the Rev limiter anyway. You are gonna stretch your cam chains and damage other components until it breaks.

 

[Traffic22]

Like others have said it’s not really a moot point when you consider gear rations and RPM drop.

Does the red part of your tach start at 7200 or are you hitting some sort of soft limiter like the engine starts pulling timing?

I’ll see if I can find the video, but I hit the hard limiter (accidentally) a couple times on track. Car very clearly pulled fuel, as you could feel it fall flat on its face. I’m not sure of the exact RPM.

Usually manufacturers set up the car to shift just before redline, so when you do get the RPM drop you’re right back in the meaty part of the torque/HP curve. That’s why I was saying that last 300 rpm seems irrelevant. Theoretically we should all be staying out of the red. (I guess the trick is to figure where peak HP starts and ends, and set accordingly.

 

[tdstuart]

Lots of people trying to say you don’t know what you are talking about and steering the topic off conversation…

Maybe just record a video of you in neutral slowly revving the car so we can see where the car hits the limiter?

Everything from google and ford shows that it should be 7,500.

 

[sms2022]

I’ll see if I can find the video, but I hit the hard limiter (accidentally) a couple times on track. Car very clearly pulled fuel, as you could feel it fall flat on its face. I’m not sure of the exact RPM.

Usually manufacturers set up the car to shift just before redline, so when you do get the RPM drop you’re right back in the meaty part of the torque/HP curve. That’s why I was saying that last 300 rpm seems irrelevant. Theoretically we should all be staying out of the red. (I guess the trick is to figure where peak HP starts and ends, and set accordingly.

Interesting. Limited by temp maybe?

 

[Traffic22]

Interesting. Limited by temp maybe?

Oh no, I just over-reved it, hit hard limiter. I’ll see if I can find the video for the exact RPM.

 

[sms2022]

Oh no, I just over-reved it, hit hard limiter. I’ll see if I can find the video for the exact RPM.

Yeah sorry bad wording by me. Maybe there’s an imposed hard limiter at 7200 under certain conditions like temperature is what i was wondering.

 

[Traffic22]

Yeah sorry bad wording by me. Maybe there’s an imposed hard limiter at 7200 under certain conditions like temperature is what i was wondering.

Okay, took a while to find it, because it was quick and brief and buried in 2 hours worth of video. LOL

First photo is just before I hit the 7500 hard limiter, you can see the tach is red. (7200 RPM) Second photo is right at the point I hit the hard limiter, you can see darker red. I also included a short clip. (It looks like it is below the actual RPM, but that is just the camera angle.)

There was another section where I actually bounced off it again, but can't find the video.

I'm 100% certain OP's car will do 7500 RPM, but that's where the hard limiter is so seems unnecessary, but it's not my car so not my place to comment.

 

[Pistol_91]

Lots of people trying to say you don’t know what you are talking about and steering the topic off conversation…

Maybe just record a video of you in neutral slowly revving the car so we can see where the car hits the limiter?

Everything from google and ford shows that it should be 7,500.

The neutral limiter and actual limiter are different. Wouldn't be useful to try this unless it's been changed to match. Pretty sure the neutral limiter is set a few hundred RPMs lower than actual in the stock calibration.

 

[Pistol_91]

If it's not rev banging like a typical rev limiter and just "falling on it's face" where it seems like the throttle is closing, well that's exactly what it's doing. If that's the case then it's temp based.

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