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Gotcha. I missed the part where it was an M1. That’s why I use my old MacBook instead of the one I replaced it with. I agree buying a cheap windows laptop or older Mac/bootcamp would be easiest

I’ve done headers on every car I’ve ever owned, but won’t be on this car. They’re probably the most expensive way to gain 15-20hp on this platform. You’d be better off investing in weight reduction for the gain/$ spent

Here’s a shot of my FP bullit grille, holes are opened up about 50% on the drivers side compared to the middle where they’re 100% open. You’ll have to zoom since this was just taken on my phone through my office window

Though I will still be calling the drivers side of my grille the right side, this is a great shot of the intake cold air tube and I agree, the intake is on the left side/drivers side lol

I have windows installed on my Mac via bootcamp. Datalogging via sct and PCMtec works fine

I agree. That’s why I’m on the stock airbox with just a k&n drop in filter, carbon trap removed (which is dyno proven to get back the lost 10hp on 22+) and ford performance bullit grille for looks, but came with the added benefit of more openings in the grille on the right side by the intake...

I give that dude 0 credit when it comes to engineering. Might know his stuff about tuning but I’m pretty sure when ford sells an aftermarket bullit grille with the whole right side opened up, they know what they’re doing better than he does. It doesn’t even make logical sense to me, the air...

I think you’re talking about the crosshatched air smoother in the intake tube itself

OP do you have the full Mach 1 bumper conversion? Or just the grille?

Yep that’s where I got the idea as well. Really surprised someone hasn’t done this yet

Been waiting to see someone hook their intake to the Mach 1 fog light hole for a true cold air intake

That paint contamination is tough. Ouch. My car has plenty of problems, especially wiring problems with nicked harnesses and wire looms routed incorrectly so they chafe but I guess I’ll take that over panel gaps and paint issues

I have never understood the panel gap gripes. My car has excellent gaps. You want to see gaps go look at a Tesla - my dad’s car has a legit .75” gap between the quarter panel and decklid on one side and 1/4” on the other.

test drove a Lexus. Couldn’t have been less impressed. If I was going for a luxury car and wanted a car not suv or truck, I’d go bmw easily. Or option out a Cali special mustang auto with Magride and tech package, blue cruise etc

I have an email from the Secretary of State saying they won’t issue another temp tag and that the car is entitled to be registered but the dealer needs to send them the original title first, which they haven’t, so I think I’m good

Part of the reason I got a black car and put the base Mach low profile spoiler on it instead of a wing - it blends in for the most part. I get a lot of thumbs up from guys in other cool cars and on bikes but that’s about it I’ve been driving with no plate for 3 months thanks to a dealership...

You gotta chill bro. Burn some of the oxidized rubber off and wait til it warms up

[ quit chasing a phantom issue man. Best advice I can give you. Don’t go down the rabbit hole regarding ford solenoids. Any issues with them are overblown x1000 online and on YouTube

My car made this noise until I was tuned. Probably nothing wrong with your car, ford solenoids have been very noisy since the 5.4 3v. Honestly you’re best off just ignoring it and not chasing that goose. I watched guys dump 5k+ into their 5.4s to stop the noise with no luck.

You saying it’s too expensive or too technologically confusing? It is fairly expensive but these cars aren’t cheap and if you’re going to tune it might as well go all out imo. If you don’t want a tune like this there’s plenty of cheaper options that still work great, just require more...