Upgrade or switch cars? (DD, occasional track)

[o-man]

I'll jump in this . I have a 19 Bullitt that I use as a DD/HPDE machine. I've been doing this HPDE stuff for over 30 years as an instructor. My Bullitt has less mods than what most recommend but it is still quite neutral on track and not a bad DD. I have the BMR Handling Springs and CB005 rear cradle kit along with the factory Magneride shocks. Up front I have Steeda Camber Plates. Running OPMustang extended studs and 35mm front spacers. Just changed up wheels to APex 19X11.5 SM10 running 325-30/19 tires square. G-Loc R18 front R8 rear pads with Motul fluid.
I've had several instructor friends drive it on track and comment on how well it handles.
I know handling can be a very subjective thing. And most everyone has said the same thing which I agree with. Square tire/wheel set up. Good set of brake pads. Camber Plates. Possibly springs and matched set of sway bars. A lot cheaper than buying another car.
BTW, Bullitts don't have piped in sound

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[Bulldog9]

Yes the car has MR.

That's true, a spare set of wheels & tires is cheaper than another car.

I do enjoy the car as a daily for the most part, but miss the sharper handling I've enjoyed in previous cars. I like the seat, sound system, (B.O.) and even use the CD player.

I wish it didn't have speaker-augmented exhaust sounds, even though it sounds good.

It does seem if I want to avoid the weight and tank-like cabin of the Camaro I'm left with the Supra or a C7 Corvette.

I'm concerned the C6 Corvettes are too old to be a reliable DD.

A Corvette turn-off is how low to the road they are. I drive over pieces of cars, tire carcasses, and other debris in the road at 80 mph regularly.

The Bullitt does NOT have speaker augmented sounds, and infact doesn't have the sound tube through the firewall that some S550's had.

What tire pressures are you running?

Assuming Sport/Track mode for stiffest MR settings?

Can you sharpen the steering? Yes, and reasonably easy. Try the Steeda lower strut brace. 20 minute job and makes a real difference.

There are other simple options mentioned here as well, square track tire setup, more aggressive alignment, camber plates, adjustable roll bars, possibly better shocks/struts/springs.

But let's face it.... The Bullitt is NOT really a track car. Capable? YES, but not it's purpose.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

The Bullitt does NOT have speaker augmented sounds, and infact doesn't have the sound tube through the firewall that some S550's had.

What tire pressures are you running?

Assuming Sport/Track mode for stiffest MR settings?

Can you sharpen the steering? Yes, and reasonably easy. Try the Steeda lower strut brace. 20 minute job and makes a real difference.

There are other simple options mentioned here as well, square track tire setup, more aggressive alignment, camber plates, adjustable roll bars, possibly better shocks/struts/springs.

But let's face it.... The Bullitt is NOT really a track car. Capable? YES, but not it's purpose.

I think it does.

Piped in from engine bay is authentic sound and that's fine. Using speakers to produce engine sounds is extremely lame.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...e-on-bullitt-or-all-2018-and-2019-v8s.108002/

Tire pressures were set at 32 psi (80 deg) all around before going on track because I wasn't sure where to put them, but knew they needed to be higher than 32 once warned up

 

['19Bullitt.32]

I like the factory wheels.

Perhaps I could put 255's all the way around?

Not sure how a 255 would look on the wider rear wheel.

But they'd be square.

Edited to add: Dumb idea. Would be smaller diameter. Never mind.

 

[Bulldog9]

I think it does.

Piped in from engine bay is authentic sound and that's fine. Using speakers to produce engine sounds is extremely lame.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...e-on-bullitt-or-all-2018-and-2019-v8s.108002/

Tire pressures were set at 32 psi (80 deg) all around before going on track because I wasn't sure where to put them, but knew they needed to be higher than 32 once warned up

You just ruined my day............. Hmmmm.... Motorcycle ride or break out the cables and try FORSCAN?

I am NOT a track rat by any means, but one of the best things I have done to sharpen up the front end and turn in was the lower strut brace. Steeda sells two types, one is just a bar, one is a K brace that hangs lower. I felt the change immediately.

For tire pressures, I've seen a few guys say they start at 30lbs cold.

As others have said, running square with wider front tires and more aggressive alignment may give you all you want, but I'd really encourage the lower strut brace. I also installed the ladder type IRS braces. Transformed my car.

I did 4 runs on the dragons tail last year and only got the front to push once, and haven't yet on an onramp. I'm pushing .91 left and .89 right on the internal gyroscope thing, and only to the track once, but so far the car is a monster and more than I will use/capable of, but planning on going larger 285/305 when I put on the Shelby CS3's this summer and put all season PSs on the stock rims.

Good luck man!

I need to read up more on the FORSCAN. I have the tool, and downloaded software but havent done anything yet. This motivates me and really irritates.....

 

['19Bullitt.32]

There's no reason not to get the K-member 2-point brace, so I will. The flatter one though, not the one that reduces ground clearance.

Thanks!

 

[Bulldog9]

There's no reason not to get the K-member 2-point brace, so I will. The flatter one though, not the one that reduces ground clearance.

Thanks!

That's what I have. Sounds crazy but I felt a difference immediately.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

You've done one track day. Don't overdo it spending thousands (or tens of thousands on a new car) for maybe one day per year. Once you've done a bunch of track days, and know you want to continue doing bunches of track days.... then maybe open the purse strings.

It doesn't take a whole lot to get the car to be neutral.

I have no idea how much track experience you have. In general it usually takes people a lot of instructed track time to even start to drive the car's real limits.

I'm re-reading my thread.

Just wanted to note I've done about a dozen track days, but this was the first in this car.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

I can't decide what to do with the wheels & tires, but I know I don't want to lower the car.

I will get the Steeda 2-point lower brace, Steeda IRS braces, whatever I need to do to get -2.0 deg frt camber, and either a thicker rear roll bar or both bars thicker, but more increase in the rear.

Then re-evaluate.

 

[L8APEX]

IMO, you don't need any upgrades at all. Use that money on track time and having an instructor beside you. I guarantee you are no where near the limit of your car.

EDIT: Maybe widened wheels and tires with a square set up if you see yourself going more than twice a year. 305 all around.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

IMO, you don't need any upgrades at all. Use that money on track time and having an instructor beside you. I guarantee you are no where near the limit of your car.

EDIT: Maybe widened wheels and tires with a square set up if you see yourself going more than twice a year. 305 all around.

Thanks.

I want to improve the handling on the street, too. I'm not satisfied with it as it is.

 

[L8APEX]

Thanks.

I want to improve the handling on the street, too. I'm not satisfied with it as it is.

Tires make the biggest difference. They effect cornering and braking....

 

[GTP]

It wouldn't "button down" the car like a spring & damper change but perhaps I could dial out some understeer with a thicker rear sway bar?

That's what I did. Rear bar is an easier change than front bar too.

I can't decide what to do with the wheels & tires, but I know I don't want to lower the car.

I will get the Steeda 2-point lower brace, Steeda IRS braces, whatever I need to do to get -2.0 deg frt camber, and either a thicker rear roll bar or both bars thicker, but more increase in the rear.

Then re-evaluate.

I don't care for a lowered car either.

I would change the rear bar and cradle lockout over the front brace.

Note that many camber plates allow up to -2.8° camber. That should work well for 10" wheels and 285/35 tires as square. This is the widest tire that won't poke up front with standard 1-1.5° camber.

Any wider/sticker and you will need to open the strut holes. Front tires may poke and the extra camber is needed, but that appearance may be acceptable to you on track days. As recommended before, seat time is more important than this extreme.

 

[mustang5o]

Put long studs on the front and buy Apex 18x11 ET52 wheels to run 305 square (or some have done like 315/30-18 on some tires), get camber plates, do the FRPP Magneride upgrade kit, upgraded pads and brake fluid and maybe an MGW shifter. I had a PP2 and did very well with that setup. I upgraded to a Mach 1 because I wanted the better track bits.

If you want slightly more performance from Magneride I've heard the DSC sport controller (or the Steeda version) make a difference.

 

[TeeLew]

Rear bar is an easier change than front bar too.

He still doesn't have any camber in the front. I'd say start with a good alignment. You can balance a bad front end by killing the rear, but we quickly get into a race to the bottom.

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