Upgrade or switch cars? (DD, occasional track)

[shogun32]

and either a thicker rear roll bar or both bars thicker, but more increase in the rear.

really? why? The car already understeers enough.

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['19Bullitt.32]

He still doesn't have any camber in the front. I'd say start with a good alignment. You can balance a bad front end by killing the rear, but we quickly get into a race to the bottom.

I can get camber plates and willing to run - 2 deg.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

really? why? The car already understeers enough.

I was thinking thickening both bars would control roll more but increase it more in the rear.

That's essentially what the PP2 does vs the PP1.

But I can do that later. I'm going to just do the rear first.

 

[shogun32]

But I can do that later. I'm going to just do the rear first.

springs support the car, not bars. Have you availed yourself of the spring rate spreadsheet that also includes bar 'rates'?

 

[TeeLew]

Well, I would suggest feeling the changes in small increments. Adding front camber its powerful, and for the track, -2.0 is too low. If you can get to -3, you should.

Adding rear roll couple with the bar will reduce understeer, but it often does so in a way which doesn't really help. It will often make the car less stable or predictable and induce a behavior which is more prone to wheelspin/snap loose.

It's no big deal to play around to find the appropriately sized RARB, but we need to appreciate this should not be a primary tuning tool. It's the salt in the soup, not the potatoes.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

springs support the car, not bars. Have you availed yourself of the spring rate spreadsheet that also includes bar 'rates'?

Yes.

Bars are good for fine-tuning the balance.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

Well, I would suggest feeling the changes in small increments. Adding front camber its powerful, and for the track, -2.0 is too low. If you can get to -3, you should.

Adding rear roll couple with the bar will reduce understeer, but it often does so in a way which doesn't really help. It will often make the car less stable or predictable and induce a behavior which is more prone to wheelspin/snap loose.

It's no big deal to play around to find the appropriately sized RARB, but we need to appreciate this should not be a primary tuning tool. It's the salt in the soup, not the potatoes.

I don't want so much camber it wears my tires prematurely on the street.

If 10% more RARB (25 mm / 1 in) makes the car a little more eager to rotate that would be great.

Lower brace will add a little more response, hopefully.

I'm hoping the Steeda IRS lock-in (not sure why they're called "lock-out"...they help lock it in place.) bars will help button-down the rear a little. (Less squirm / unpredictable motions)

 

[shogun32]

I don't want so much camber it wears my tires prematurely on the street.

rubbish. -2.5 doesn't elevate wear that you'd notice. And anyway if you're not prepared to spend $$$ on tires, just quit now.

I'm hoping the Steeda IRS lock-in (not sure why they're called "lock-out"...they help lock it in place.) bars will help button-down the rear a little. (Less squirm / unpredictable motions)

Yes, you absolutely have to pin the IRS and take all the giant slop out of it. Otherwise it drives like Harley, with a hinge in the middle of the frame.

 

[MrMike]

I'm hoping the Steeda IRS lock-in (not sure why they're called "lock-out"...they help lock it in place.) bars will help button-down the rear a little. (Less squirm / unpredictable motions)

Did you cross-shop the BMR bracing? I haven't purchased either yet, but I was looking at these and it was interesting to me how BMR and Steeda seem to have taken different approaches to this.

 

['19Bullitt.32]

Did you cross-shop the BMR bracing? I haven't purchased either yet, but I was looking at these and it was interesting to me how BMR and Steeda seem to have taken different approaches to this.

I have not, will check it out, thanks.

 

[shogun32]

Did you cross-shop the BMR bracing? I haven't purchased either yet, but I was looking at these and it was interesting to me how BMR and Steeda seem to have taken different approaches to this.

I did one car with BMR, the other with Steeda. I think the BMR solution is slightly preferable but more involved, whereas the Steeda one is lighter and easier to pull off.

The easiest way forward is the IRS alignment dowels (BMR/Steeda/Lethal, doesn't matter) married to Whiteline's IRS bushing lockout kit and then add the Steeda IRS brace.

 

[MrMike]

I did one car with BMR, the other with Steeda. I think the BMR solution is slightly preferable but more involved, whereas the Steeda one is lighter and easier to pull off.

The easiest way forward is the IRS alignment dowels (BMR/Steeda/Lethal, doesn't matter) married to Whiteline's IRS bushing lockout kit and then add the Steeda IRS brace.

For the IRS alignment dowels, are you referring to these?

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-subframe-alignment-kit-2015-all-555-4438.html

Anything that makes Whiteline's lockout kit preferred over say BMR CB005 or am I misunderstanding?

 

[shogun32]

For the IRS alignment dowels, are you referring to these?

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-subframe-alignment-kit-2015-all-555-4438.html

yes

Anything that makes Whiteline's lockout kit preferred over say BMR CB005 or am I misunderstanding?

no. the CB005 accomplishes the same thing as Whiteline+Steeda brace. If you go with CB005 that's fine. I prefer go all the way and get CB762 but you may not want to go quite as far.

 

[TeeLew]

I don't want so much camber it wears my tires prematurely on the street.

If 10% more RARB (25 mm / 1 in) makes the car a little more eager to rotate that would be great.

I get what you're saying, but WD-40 on the rears would work for that as well. There may be an alternative which improves balance and wear.

 

[MPGainer]

I have a 2022 Mach 1 with the handling package. I had the camber adjusted per Ford's "track alignment" specs and I track it otherwise completely stock. It's a blast. The differences between your car and mine are primarily suspension and tires (maybe some engine, trans, oil, and diff coolers too). I bought a second set of rims and tires because as you guessed, the tramlining with 305s on Cup2's is pretty bad. It rides great on the road with the track alignment and less aggressive rubber. For what it's worth, it's a great dual purpose car and can be repaired at a Ford dealer.

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