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Fuel System Noises ?

HKusp

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I’m stage 3 using my existing Whipple rails. Oh it’s secure, it’s tight against the car and the plate. Too tight against the car I think is the issue.
Get some rubber washers to isolate it from the body. How do you have it secured?
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J17GT

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Get some rubber washers to isolate it from the body. How do you have it secured?
It’s just wedged between that plate and body of the car currently.
 

HKusp

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J17GT

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Good option! I’d need to shim that plate out a decent amount to fit that in there. It’s so tight where the Y adapter is.

I did order some foam insulation tape that you can use for windows and doors. LOL Might try to put some on the body and back of the plate. Wrap some around the Y block too. It’s thinner stuff, but if that doesn’t work, I’ll try what you suggested.
 
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Since we have a few Arcane stage 3 folks in this thread, quick question - I got that Y adapter pretty well sandwiched in the driver wheel well between that plate and the body of the car. It seems to be transmitting a bunch of noise into the car. At speed it seems fine, but at idle there is clicking/pulsing sounds. I just assume it’s because that Y is making contact with the body of the car. Anyone else deal with this? Or you all probably did a better job routing through that area than I did. Haha

I’m going to take the wheel well apart again, remove the plate and wrap the Y with some insulation tape stuff I found on Amazon. I may shim the plate out with some washers to give it some clearance. Not a ton of wiggle room with all my hoses routed in their final place now.
Mine is in the same location and I struggled a bit to get the plate to bolt back in freely without smashing things. I eventually got it figured out but it was/is a tight fit. I don’t have any resonance or noises but I have thought about redoing my lines and putting the y under the car. But then I remember that making my own fuel lines wasn’t great fun lol.
 

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J17GT

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Mine is in the same location and I struggled a bit to get the plate to bolt back in freely without smashing things. I eventually got it figured out but it was/is a tight fit. I don’t have any resonance or noises but I have thought about redoing my lines and putting the y under the car. But then I remember that making my own fuel lines wasn’t great fun lol.
Yeah, I really wish it was in a different spot. I just went with their suggestion of putting in there and didn’t think much about it. Go to bolt that plate back, immediately hated it. But like you, I sure don’t feel like redoing any fuel lines at this point. I’m hopeful I’ll get it sorted without too much fuss.
 

ToxicOverwatch

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Anybody willing to post a picture of your regulator? The way mine is mounted I have a supply line running behind the regulator between it and the strut tower/well area. The line is ever so slightly sammiched and I’m wondering if that would be a no-no
 
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Anybody willing to post a picture of your regulator? The way mine is mounted I have a supply line running behind the regulator between it and the strut tower/well area. The line is ever so slightly sammiched and I’m wondering if that would be a no-no
IMG_6977.jpeg
 

ToxicOverwatch

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Thanks man, for some reason, I elected to route the fuel line behind the regulator rather than in front of it. I think I will redo that just so the fuel gods allow me access to fuel heaven someday.
 

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Unas2k5

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Mine doesn’t sound like that. I have a Fore L2 but it definitely makes noise even on accessory mode. I can share a video if anyone wants to hear it.
 

J17GT

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OK...I'm not embracing the barking seal. Actually, I want it to die. LOL Not an animal lover I guess...

I know these 274 pumps are supposed to have an internal check valve, but it sure doesn't seem like it. At what power level is an inline check valve less than ideal? I know it does introduce a little restriction into the system. Radium makes a small/short check valve that I think I can make work in the -8 feed under the car and probably would not have to redo any fuel lines.

https://www.radiumauto.com/Universal-Check-Valve-Kits-P1872.aspx

Or the other option is to try a different brand fuel pressure regulator. Although, that is a more expensive option than the check valve. I was thinking I might shoot a message to Deatschwerks to get their take on since they designed the barking seal.
 

Magony15

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The 274's check valves do nothing on my set up. If and when I have to replace them I will use pumps without built in check valves and install a real one in the fuel line. My pumps are not loud but I have a returnless stage2 system.
 

J17GT

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The 274's check valves do nothing on my set up. If and when I have to replace them I will use pumps without built in check valves and install a real one in the fuel line. My pumps are not loud but I have a returnless stage2 system.
The 'barking seal' noise is in the regulator, not the pumps.
 
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Anybody willing to post a picture of your regulator? The way mine is mounted I have a supply line running behind the regulator between it and the strut tower/well area. The line is ever so slightly sammiched and I’m wondering if that would be a no-no
I tucked mine under the strut tower brace. Mine makes noise every now and then, it's a random occurance when it decides to do it. Sometimes the car starts right up when you bump the button, sometimes it takes hitting it twice to start.

20240309_135023.jpg


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