Search results

The Whiteline KDT 953 is better than Steeda's and it still is available on their website. It aligns the subframe and eliminates the need for braces. I can launch my MT82 without wheel hop. No change in NVH.

I used a drill press with a 2" hole saw to make the groove to accept the intercooler flange. Need a better drill press than mine. If I had to do it again I could make it better. Like I said, no leaks so far. I used an o-ring too.

I used a Greddy to Tial adaptor from Ebay. No welding but a machinist would be nice to groove the mating surface. I improvised. Seems to be handling boost.

Thanks. Lots of Dremel use.

If you remove the center section the covers post's will slip into the '18 manifold. I just wanted to cover the fuel rail sections.

Take your time and route everything neatly. I kept my purge valve at the same location instead of using the '18 set up and lengthening the wiring. Also, keep your IMRC's enabled. You won't hear that often on this forum.

Mine read zero till I do at least a 5K datalog on the road.

The engine barely twists even with stock mounts. Have someone rev it in your driveway while you watch. That shop dented it instead of shifting the engine or zip tying like you did. Kooks would be your best bet from what I've read. That AC block on the newer GT's is tough to fit around.

You still have the vacuum line hooked up to the IMRC port. I thought that has to be plugged when you lock them out. Mine are active so I'm not sure.

It always sounds like it is the passenger side with the noise but it's actually both sides. Sloppy tolerances in Viking's spherical bearings are the reason. It's a shame because it's a good concept. No binding like you get with rubber bushings.

Go into Settings>Bluetooth & devices>Devices, then scroll to Bluetooth Device Settings and make sure Connect using Swift Pair is on and Bluetooth devices discovery is switched to Advanced. It fixed my similar issue.

Quality E85 in northern Illinois and southern Wisconsin. Not sure about the west.

Actually the OEM fuel line is by itself on the inside of the frame rail. I removed it and ran the AN line there and modified the cover.

I have the Racetronix filter with stainless steel element that came with my Arcane system. I would've rather had the microglass. No chance of E85 affecting it.

I'm going to be using it again since my Exedy ceramic clutch didn't hold up very long. I'll take some measurements to pass on if I can. Would've bought an actual transmission jack from HF if I knew I'd be doing it again.

Reuse your existing eccentric bolt and nut. The M14x2.0 nut is to replace the nut that is welded to the factory toe link.

M14x2.0 My MMR new toe links didn't even come with those nuts. Ordered flanged yellow zinc ones from Belmetric.com.

That's if they are not blocked. The bulky pre-filters block one of them from opening and the other will get stuck open by the crossover tube inside the bucket. I tested it before I dropped it into the tank.

I can assure you it doesn't have an inline fuel filter. GT350 does but that's not even a GT350 in the picture.

That's actually a jumper wire that's only a couple feet long if it's like mine. Follow it up to the ride side frame rail. You can find used ones from the salvaged yards on Ebay.