Agree in your example, but realize "on track" use is wildly different than a turbo or blower weekend cruiser that sees 10psi boost once or twice a month in cool temperatures..Oh, I'm not concerned about his current failure, that is simply a surface finish issue most likely. The rest of the motor of unknown history, tune, maintenance and use is why I wouldn't be running 5-20 in this car. The reason they go to 5-50 is because it causes less issue with the VVT control on track.
agreeLooks to me like the roller on the rocker arm seized up. Significant wear on that roller
Adding it to the listI didn't see this mentioned but the cam cap bolts are TTY so they would need replaced also along with the phaser to cam bolts. Good news ARP makes reusable bolts for the cam caps, cam to phaser and the phaser itself.
https://lmr.com/products/2015-mustang-camshaft-valvetrain#21790
a second cam lobe in those pics looks rough tooWhile I'm no fan of either, before everyone hops on that bandwagon ask yourself why only 1 rocker out of 32 is affected then?
This has my vote.Or some other random debris found its way between the lobe and roller causing damage.
Holy f*ck couldāve been a lot worse, glad I caught it when I did.The rocker arm retaining clips on these motors come off like toys R us security tags in a BLM rally. Yours all appear to be missing, which isnt bad but may have caused the issue. I had 8 come off mine and had to replace all cams, redo my heads, also had broken piston skirts. My cam cap was broken but IDK if that was from a retaining clip going through, or my prior warranty work done and the dealer re-using torque to yield bolts.
If you regularly rev to 8000RPM then yeah lolThe rocker arm retaining clips on these motors come off like toys R us security tags. Yours all appear to be missing, which isnt bad but may have caused the issue. I had 8 come off mine and had to replace all cams, redo my heads, also had broken piston skirts. My cam cap was broken but IDK if that was from a retaining clip going through, or my prior warranty work done and the dealer re-using torque to yield bolts.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/reso...995800ce/85affa7c88e67cb485de2523bda8d32c.jpg the clip on the right side is probably the cause of this.
Tell me you don't understand oil viscosity and weights without telling me....Ehhh... there is no "black and white" as it relates to which oil to run.
Way too many factors... climate? How hard is the car driven? How often? How many miles per year? How often does the oil get changed? Do you use any additives?
If I lived in a cold climate, rarely drove my car in boost, and changed the oil every 6 months regardless of mileage -- there is NO WAY you could get me to run 5w50. Absolutely not.
There's no need to be snide. Besides actually being more complicated than your simplified example makes it, you don't run around all winter with an oil temp of 0C so they aren't the same even then.Tell me you don't understand oil viscosity and weights without telling me....
a 5W50 is the same viscosity at 0* C as 5W30. The "W" means winter and the first number in a multi-viscosity oil is the winter weight measured at 0* C. Once the oil hits 100*C it then carries the second number viscosity. This is achieved with copolymers and other chemistry that allows the oil to thicken when hot and thin out when cold.
Thanks for the chemistry lesson -- only to agree with what I posted. lolTell me you don't understand oil viscosity and weights without telling me....
a 5W50 is the same viscosity at 0* C as 5W30. The "W" means winter and the first number in a multi-viscosity oil is the winter weight measured at 0* C. Once the oil hits 100*C it then carries the second number viscosity. This is achieved with copolymers and other chemistry that allows the oil to thicken when hot and thin out when cold.