To Those Who Have .. Subframe & Alignment

[K4fxd]

you still need to take the weight off like traditional. The eccentric just makes the amount of movement predictable.

With the eccentric you have to take the weight off, which requires resetting the alignment machine after every adjustment.

With the stock system you can use a big pry bar and move things with the weight on the tires. Much easier.

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[GTP]

With the eccentric you have to take the weight off, which requires resetting the alignment machine after every adjustment.

With the stock system you can use a big pry bar and move things with the weight on the tires. Much easier.

Wait, what? Do you have to lift the car for suspension droop before adjusting the cam? How is that progress?

 

[shogun32]

Wait, what? Do you have to lift the car for suspension droop before adjusting the cam? How is that progress?

hmm, maybe you can do it with full weight, I haven't tried. the problem with K's favorite he-man solution is there is no way to make "minute" adjustments. You also have to keep the pry-bar immobile while you frantically tighten down the bolts without anything moving. Basically a 2-man operation. With the cam, you take some weight off, turn the bolt, let it settle, check the gauges, turn the bolt a little more, then tighten.

 

[GTP]

hmm, maybe you can do it with full weight, I haven't tried. the problem with K's favorite he-man solution is there is no way to make "minute" adjustments. You also have to keep the pry-bar immobile while you frantically tighten down the bolts without anything moving. Basically a 2-man operation. With the cam, you take some weight off, turn the bolt, let it settle, check the gauges, turn the bolt a little more, then tighten.

Yeah, I witnessed what you describe once on the dealership Hunter alignment rack. The Mustang tech had to keep going back to his tool box, and he used a huge prybar and struggled with it a lot.

I wonder if the vehicle weight puts the adjuster in too much bind to turn the cam.

 

[shogun32]

I wonder if the vehicle weight puts the adjuster in too much bind to turn the cam.

the head on a 14mm bolt is what, 22mm? trying to 'lift' 1800lb with a box-end wrench would take some doing, I think.

 

[djcodeman]

I wonder if OP has a failed RLCA bushing or toe link ......

 

[K4fxd]

The he man solution works. You keep some tension on the adjuster bolt so it won't move by itself.

This is how my alignment guy does it and he gets both sides even.

 

[Blu22HPP]

I wonder if OP has a failed RLCA bushing or toe link ......

Can't say that I've checked them. Haven't experienced anything abnormal prior to this change. Only 8k miles on the car. I will know Thursday morning.

 

[WD Pro]

you still need to take the weight off like traditional. The eccentric just makes the amount of movement predictable.

Wait, what? Do you have to lift the car for suspension droop before adjusting the cam? How is that progress?

hmm, maybe you can do it with full weight, I haven't tried. the problem with K's favorite he-man solution is there is no way to make "minute" adjustments. You also have to keep the pry-bar immobile while you frantically tighten down the bolts without anything moving. Basically a 2-man operation. With the cam, you take some weight off, turn the bolt, let it settle, check the gauges, turn the bolt a little more, then tighten.

Yeah, I witnessed what you describe once on the dealership Hunter alignment rack. The Mustang tech had to keep going back to his tool box, and he used a huge prybar and struggled with it a lot.

I wonder if the vehicle weight puts the adjuster in too much bind to turn the cam.

If it helps, and if I have done my sums correctly :

Slight mod with the hacksaw :

Some of my eldest daughters craft supplies :

Quick wipe with thinners :

Hopefully this will remove some of the guesswork :

I understand that 'Approx' 1mm of movement = 0.15 deg, so if I've done my measurements and maths correctly, each notch should move the camber approx 0.13 deg.

WD

WD

 

[GTP]

@WD Pro
Clever. I will do that, too. But your post is from last September. Did you adjust camber with the car lifted?

 

[WD Pro]

@WD Pro
Clever. I will do that, too. But your post is from last September. Did you adjust camber with the car lifted?

I haven't done it yet ... lol

Trusting my tech (whos been very good with me) it's OK / within spec, so I have delayed any further adjustment until the MR spring kit goes on

I do have a real nice camber gauge and wheel adaptor, but I'm still on the search for an area I can trust as being flat ...

WD

 

[GTP]

I just use a small square magnetic angle gauge from eBay for $12. It can be placed 90* and then zeroed out. Clips right onto the rotor.

 

[WD Pro]

I just use a small square magnetic angle gauge from eBay for $12. It can be placed 90* and then zeroed out. Clips right onto the rotor.

I have an older posh version of that, bought before such things could be sourced cheaply / easily ...

But I paid no where near what the same gauge costs now !

WD

 

[GTP]

Yeah, but that can't be zeroed out on a flat but non-level surface, right?
Pluss my little guy is only 2" square and can be easily placed with the wheel on. I just have to turn on its backlight to read.

(It's not a contest, I know.)

 

[WD Pro]

There is a zero button.

I also built a zeroing function into the wheel adaptor that I made.

I’ve no problem with the critique - there were very few other options at the time I bought it, truth be known and if I was doing it again ‘today’, I would probably just use inclinometer on the iPhone … lol

WD

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