Tips for going the FBO route

[NGOT8R]

What is your budget for achieving your power goal? If it’s a blank check, then the world is your oyster. If not, then working in stages would be the best way to approach it.

How about labor, are you capable of installing the mods yourself or will you need to hire someone to perform them?

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[5.0Rooster]

If you’re going to run lockouts you’ll need to have them turned off in the tune, so you’re back to needing the tune. My vote is the CAI kit, mid pipe, tb and axle back for now. Buy the intake if it’s in your budget and the IMRC lockout kit and sit on them until you’re absolutely ready for the tune and then do that. Another option to LTHs is this:

https://www.makperformance.com/2015-2023-Mustang-GT-MAK-Performance-Pipes_p_299.html

what’s the purpose of lockouts ? Do I really need them?

 

[5.0Rooster]

What is your budget for achieving your power goal? If it’s a blank check, then the world is your oyster. If not, then working in stages would be the best way to approach it.

How about labor, are you capable of installing the mods yourself or will you need to hire someone to perform them?

It’s not an open check. It would definitely be in stages. I’m capable of installing some mods. Anything exhaust related would be an job for a professional

 

[NGOT8R]

what’s the purpose of lockouts ? Do I really need them?

You don’t necessarily need them, but the IMRC rods have been known to break over time. That was one of the reasons why I did them on mine, the other was to declutter the back of the IM and allow easier access to the top two tranny bolts for clutch and tranny work. If they ever break on you, you’re gonna pull the IM to add them. They’re cheap enough at around $70, that it just makes sense to do them before you install the new IM.

The supercharger folks can confirm this, but I believe most tuners prefer them to be locked out with a supercharger.

 

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

I agree that boost is 100% the best bang for buck with power. However many N/A modifications will support performance while boosted. If you want boost ASAP, no need to swap intake manifolds, and you could keep the stock cold air. Headers will be the most beneficial, especially making them “free flowing”.
You will make more power boosted with a different intake manifold, but it’s not necessary.
I don’t regret what I’ve done to my car (350 manifold, pmas cold air, long tubes) and it’s definitely been fun, I track my car and I don’t think I’ll pursue boost.
Avoid the cobra jet+cams combo like the plague, that setup will cost the same as boost.

 

[NGOT8R]

what’s the purpose of lockouts ? Do I really need them?

You don’t necessarily need them, but the IMRC rods have been known to break over time. That was one of the reasons why I did them on mine, the other was to allow easier access to the top two tranny bolts for clutch and tranny work. If they ever break on you, you’re gonna pull the IM to add them. They’re cheap enough at around $70, that it just makes sense to do them before you install the new IM.

The supercharger folks can confirm this, but I believe most tuners prefer them to be locked out with a supercharger.

It’s not an open check. It would definitely be in stages. I’m capable of installing some mods. Anything exhaust related would be an job for a professional

Interested in LTHs or staying with factory headers? If sticking with the factory headers, installing a mid pipe and axle back is easy work. If you have access to a lift it’s even easier, otherwise the work will be performed on jack stands which still isn’t that bad.

Just trying to encourage you to avoid paying anyone for anything unless it’s absolutely necessary.

 

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

It’s not an open check. It would definitely be in stages. I’m capable of installing some mods. Anything exhaust related would be an job for a professional

The “stages” I did were pretty simple and saved me the most money.

1: PMAS tune required cold air, GT350 intake manifold+ OEM throttle body adaptor. *You really shouldn’t buy a different TB, the stock one is sufficient.


2: Kooks long tube headers, O/R connection pipes.

3: Coilovers, swaybar

This was over the span of ~1.5 years with suspension being the latest. I stayed with stage 1 for the longest before changes, it was pretty balanced.

 

[5.0Rooster]

You don’t necessarily need them, but the IMRC rods have been known to break over time. That was one of the reasons why I did them on mine, the other was to allow easier access to the top two tranny bolts for clutch and tranny work. If they ever break on you, you’re gonna pull the IM to add them. They’re cheap enough at around $70, that it just makes sense to do them before you install the new IM.

The supercharger folks can confirm this, but I believe most tuners prefer them to be locked out with a supercharger.



Interested in LTHs or staying with factory headers? If sticking with the factory headers, installing a mid pipe and axle back is easy work. If you have access to a lift it’s even easier, otherwise the work will be performed on jack stands which still isn’t that bad.

Just trying to encourage you to avoid paying anyone for anything unless it’s absolutely necessary.

I am interested in headers but that would be sometime later

 

[5.0Rooster]

The “stages” I did were pretty simple and saved me the most money.

1: PMAS tune required cold air, GT350 intake manifold+ OEM throttle body adaptor. *You really shouldn’t buy a different TB, the stock one is sufficient.


2: Kooks long tube headers, O/R connection pipes.

3: Coilovers, swaybar

This was over the span of ~1.5 years with suspension being the latest. I stayed with stage 1 for the longest before changes, it was pretty balanced.

Would I need the LU47 injectors with the GT350 Manifold?

 

[NGOT8R]

I am interested in headers but that would be sometime later

Oh okay. They too can be done on jack stands. I’ve done it annd so have many others here too. Here’s what it entails.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bullitt-long-tube-header-installation.147899/

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

No, the stock injectors flow plenty for a N/A setup, even with E85. once you go boosted, you'll need bigger injectors.

 

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

Would I need the LU47 injectors with the GT350 Manifold?

No, I run the OEM. If you go e85 you’ll need lu47’s with a gt350 manifold. You can run e85 on the stock injectors with the stock manifold though.

 

[Whitewalkers550]

so this is just my opinion since its just a daily for you and staying n/a like i did, but i did gt350 airbox, lu47 injectors, headers and full exhaust and a tune for 93, e 85 and flex, im incredibly happy with how the car runs and drives, puts down decent power for a daily and i dont have any reliability issues. For the gen 2 500 is a stretch to get to at the wheels, combo above is 440-450 ish and intake manifold doesnt gain too much more peak power but will carry power up higher

 

[5.0Rooster]

So for starting out (stage 1) GT350 manifold, 87mm throttle body, and tune required cold air intake? This would leave room for me to do headers and catback later on?

 

[K4fxd]

The GT350 manifold is a drop in no tune or lockouts required on a gen 2, as long as you use an adapter for your TB. The PMAS no tune required CAI does make some additional power. You could then add long tubes and make some more. All this without a tune.

Now you could add a tune for E and or get a supercharger.

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