ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers

[SheepDog]

are you not at all concerned about the oil getting to where it needs to go?

No, I am not concerned. The most wear on an engine occurs at start-up. So, a 0-40 or a 0-20 should provide the same level of protection during startup. That 0W-xx oil is able to flow through the "small" oil passages and bearing oil channels when it is cold, right?

That cold 0w-xx oil is many times thicker, and therefore harder to pump through the engine than a 5w-40 or even a 5W-50 that is at normal operating temperature.

What this means to me is that if a cold 0-20 weight oil can flow through those small spaces adequately, then most certainly a hot 0-40 or 5-50 can as well.

The true variable here is that you are forcing/demanding much higher loads on you engine with the blower. At cold start-up, your 0-20 and my 0-40 are providing the same level of protection, but when the oil is hot, the 40 weight is providing more protection, more load capacity, and according to that video, less windage loss because it is not draining down onto the crankshaft as fast.

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[jmagnus87]

No, I am not concerned. The most wear on an engine occurs at start-up. So, a 0-40 or a 0-20 should provide the same level of protection during startup. That 0W-xx oil is able to flow through the "small" oil passages and bearing oil channels when it is cold, right?
Do you not believe that the oil passages are small? If not tiny? I'm not just about the main journals

That cold 0w-xx oil is many times thicker, and therefore harder to pump through the engine than a 5w-40 or even a 5W-50 that is at normal operating temperature.correct and hotter molecules are easier to move same with ones already in just about

What this means to me is that if a cold 0-20 weight oil can flow through those small spaces adequately, then most certainly a hot 0-40 or 5-50 can as well.
correct again for same reason

The true variable here is that you are forcing/demanding much higher loads on you engine with the blower. At cold start-up, your 0-20 and my 0-40 are providing the same level of protection, but when the oil is hot, the 40 weight is providing more protection, more load capacity, and according to that video, less windage loss because it is not draining down onto the crankshaft as fast.

i agreed with you this morning about adding more viscosity to the oil. The "how much" for the Goldilocks amount is the part i question. I agreed to using higher viscosity and more additives to resist the shear. It's the going to full blown 50 weight is my problem with a coyote.
given today's education, with a video literally only made 4 days ago, I'm in agreement i need more viscosity than what i have. Saying that 50 weight will flow through just as well as twenty when brand new and hot specifically only in a coyote or a modular 4.6L ford is the part i question. And again, it's my own opinions as they stated in the video until proven by another good set of scientists in a Lab with an engine dyno, my opinion that 50 weight at full viscosity can't possibly flow as much as 20w will not change. You take literally any fluid system in the world and then reduce the pipe size, it's going to slow flow period. That's not an opinion

 

[SheepDog]

i agreed with you this morning about adding more viscosity to the oil. The "how much" for the Goldilocks amount is the part i question. I agreed to using higher viscosity and more additives to resist the shear. It's the going to full blown 50 weight is my problem with a coyote.
given today's education, with a video literally only made 4 days ago, I'm in agreement i need more viscosity than what i have. Saying that 50 weight will flow through just as well as twenty when brand new and hot specifically only in a coyote or a modular 4.6L ford is the part i question. And again, it's my own opinions as they stated in the video until proven by another good set of scientists in a Lab with an engine dyno, my opinion that 50 weight at full viscosity can't possibly flow as much as 20w will not change. You take literally any fluid system in the world and then reduce the pipe size, it's going to slow flow period. That's not an opinion

I never said that a 50 weight will flow as well as a 20 weight at the same temperature.

Im saying that if a cold 20 weight flows adequately through a given space, then absolutely a hot 50 weight will also flow through that same space.

There is most certainly a tradeoff for the flow of a hot 20 weight vs. a hot 50 weight. However, the hot 50 weight will provide far more protection during operation than the hot 20 weight, Which is what I am most concerned about in regards to Forced induction Coyotes. For a stock engine, the stock oil weight is ideal. For an engine that has 2 or 3 or 4x the load on the critical parts, I want the best film strength and wear protection as possible

If the oil pump can supply the engine with adequate flow and lubrication using a cold 0W-20, than it can also provide adequate flow and lubrication of a hot 5W-50. (there are even 0W-50's out there)

Maybe a 0w-40 is the best middle ground, but I never drive my car when it is cold outside anyway

 

[HKusp]

I drive mine when it's cold hot and in between. As long as there is no snow on the ground. 5w 50 is going in it. I MIGHT consider a 5w 40 in winter, but I doubt it. Btw, who ever said a few pages back their 2019 is spec'd at 5w 20, I don't think that is the case. Here's the oil cap on my 2018...

 

[jmagnus87]

I never said that a 50 weight will flow as well as a 20 weight at the same temperature.

Im saying that if a cold 20 weight flows adequately through a given space, then absolutely a hot 50 weight will also flow through that same space.

There is most certainly a tradeoff for the flow of a hot 20 weight vs. a hot 50 weight. However, the hot 50 weight will provide far more protection during operation than the hot 20 weight, Which is what I am most concerned about in regards to Forced induction Coyotes. For a stock engine, the stock oil weight is ideal. For an engine that has 2 or 3 or 4x the load on the critical parts, I want the best film strength and wear protection as possible

If the oil pump can supply the engine with adequate flow and lubrication using a cold 0W-20, than it can also provide adequate flow and lubrication of a hot 5W-50. (there are even 0W-50's out there)

Maybe a 0w-40 is the best middle ground, but I never drive my car when it is cold outside anyway

Well this would make sense why you don't run the 20w-50. The 5w gives your 5w-50 a chance to warm up and still maintain free flow during warm up.
as yall probably know, i drive my car when it's -18F which may be why my miles have been problem free. Most of them have been in the cold. Didn't have my supercharger fully dialed in until later in summer.
i think a real happy medium here might be good old 10w-40 lol a little bit more viscosity on warm up then less thick when hot than 50.
obviously, both scenarios are currently working fine. I'm also on stock OPGs so i don't believe the stock OPGs are really up to the task of pulling 50w through the motor. It may be possible that the 50w oil gets jammed up in the OPGs and grenades them. I'm not saying this is definitely the case, but it's certainly plausible.
in my current opinion based off the data I currently have available to me and previous experience with dead modular fords, a 5w-30 with about 5-10% additive like the Lucas low viscosity stuff is probably the safest happy medium on my application. And that will work year round for me

 

[Scott]

Absolutely gorgeous, Scott! Orange Fury is one of my favorite colors that Ford has ever made. I have similar strut tower covers to yours, but don't have any color on them. Got them off of Ebay. Were you able to buy them color-matched or did you have a shop spray them?

Thank you. Got my strut covers from Custom Pony, he paints to order.

 

[TruBlu77]

This oil weight discussion has been very interesting and educational. I had not thought at all about the OPGs and if a different weight would impact or influence their operation. I haven't researched this, and I have a feeling some of you more knowledgeable folks will already know this but I'm assuming that the Voodoo and Predator OPGs are different/better than what is in a stock Coyote motor. I'm not worried at all about my Gen2 Coyote OPG failing with how I'll drive the car (i.e. normally 95+% of the time), but I am starting to wonder if I get the oil weight wrong in what the engine should use after being boosted if it could push the OPG closer to failure.

 

[Zrussian13]

I drive mine when it's cold hot and in between. As long as there is no snow on the ground. 5w 50 is going in it. I MIGHT consider a 5w 40 in winter, but I doubt it. Btw, who ever said a few pages back their 2019 is spec'd at 5w 20, I don't think that is the case. Here's the oil cap on my 2018...

That's odd because my 19 calls for 5w-20 too. I thought ford changed the spec later on but clearly that's not entirely the case if your 18 says 5w-30?

 

[SheepDog]

This oil weight discussion has been very interesting and educational. I had not thought at all about the OPGs and if a different weight would impact or influence their operation. I haven't researched this, and I have a feeling some of you more knowledgeable folks will already know this but I'm assuming that the Voodoo and Predator OPGs are different/better than what is in a stock Coyote motor. I'm not worried at all about my Gen2 Coyote OPG failing with how I'll drive the car (i.e. normally 95+% of the time), but I am starting to wonder if I get the oil weight wrong in what the engine should use after being boosted if it could push the OPG closer to failure.

If anything, I would think that heavier oil would help the OEM OPG survive because heavier oil will help reduce the shock and vibration going through it.

 

[Pistol_91]

I run 5w30. Have been since day 1. Been boosted for nearly a year. I live in central Florida. No issues. My personal theory is heavier oil makes everything work harder, and in this heat, I feel like that's not a great idea.

 

[TruBlu77]

Going to throw another question out to existing ESS kit owners. Once again, if this has been covered in early posts within this thread, I'm sorry - I'm still going through all of them. I'll take any buckshot that needs to come my way.

How are you all servicing your air filters? I looks like it sits in the fender well behind the liner. Didn't know if it's easy to disconnect the hose from the blower inlet to get it out or if you need to take the wheel off and loosen the fender lining to get at it?

 

[Brevin]

Going to throw another question out to existing ESS kit owners. Once again, if this has been covered in early posts within this thread, I'm sorry - I'm still going through all of them. I'll take any buckshot that needs to come my way.

How are you all servicing your air filters? I looks like it sits in the fender well behind the liner. Didn't know if it's easy to disconnect the hose from the blower inlet to get it out or if you need to take the wheel off and loosen the fender lining to get at it?

Remove the plastic rivets holding on the radiator support cover. Remove the cover and then the two 10mm bolts holding on the driver side radiator mount. Remove the mount. You now have room to pull the entire intake/filter assembly out the top. See photo below. This is the quickest and easiest way to service the filter.

 

[Pistol_91]

Remove the plastic rivets holding on the radiator support cover. Remove the cover and then the two 10mm bolts holding on the driver side radiator mount. Remove the mount. You now have room to pull the entire intake/filter assembly out the top. See photo below. This is the quickest and easiest way to service the filter.

How do you like the velocity stack on there

 

[TruBlu77]

Another question that might be interesting to some of you veterans out there -

Ran into a guy that has 2020 GT500 injectors with 7k on them and a stock fuel pump canister assembly which has 2 pumps in it (also with 7k miles on them). He upgraded to a Fore system and is looking to get 500 for all of it. I don't know if a stock GT500 fuel canister would be a drop-in replacement for the S550 canister assembly, or if it would perform as good or better than a DW400 replacement pump.

It would save me about 100 then getting new injectors and a new DW400, but I could just swap out the canisters if everything hooks up the same between both canisters. Has anyone done this or looked into it? Thinking this over, I don't know if 100 savings is worth it to get used but I like the prospect of not having to modify my canister (though it's probably not that big of a deal).

I've seen pros and cons of a DW400 vs. a BAP. I thought the general consensus was that a DW400 would be preferred for longevity over a BAP, but I know that many (or most?) of you have ran a BAP for years in your ESS builds.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer. Still trying to figure out my path in all of this.

 

[daSNAK3]

I ran GT500 injectors and DW400 pump before I upgraded the fuel system... I never had an issue with either of those, I just preferred just using the fuel pump vs the BAP, myself. I can't speak on the GT500 fuel pump assembly.

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