What cooling options do I have with a procharger kit?

[zacksbrokenmustang]

My 17 procharged mustang runs very cool on the street without any real issues.

Id like to start tracking this vehicle a lot more with the nasa fl group on the road courses in florida.

my problem is that with the procharger, in the florida heat, after 1 or 2 quick laps, the coolant temp gets high enough that it sends me a warning at which I backed off and let the car cool.

is anyone else running forced induction on these cars and regularly putting them on a road course? What have you done to combat cooling issues?

Let me know what kind of ideas you have that could work around the procharger setup with the intercooler in the front.

Sponsored

 

[andrewtac]

Aftermarket radiator. Ducting the front end helps, but is some work.

 

[jpjr501]

Procharger here and I live in South Florida. My car doesn't run over 195 degrees ever no matter how hard I push it.

Mishimoto Aluminum radiator is a must but the best cooling mod ever, MMR electric water pump. I have an in car controller to manage the temps. My tuner has the fans on full I think at 160 degrees and in the Procharger tank I"m running Liquid Chill by Mishimoto.

 

[vaeevictiss]

get a GT500 style hood. Significantly lowers under hood temps.

 

[tosha]

is anyone else running forced induction on these cars and regularly putting them on a road course? What have you done to combat cooling issues?

I do, and I would never go down that journey in Florida heat. Big ass radiator, max hood venting, radiator ducting, 170 thermostat, water spraying on rads, shortshifting most of the time, cooldown laps, and if it's above 80F (which in Florida is almost always) I just take a different car. There is just no fun in it, instead of looking where you drive and focusing on what you do, you keep looking at temp gauges.

My car doesn't run over 195 degrees ever no matter how hard I push it.

This is about continious runs at or close to max RPM for 25-30 minutes non-stop. Are you talking about the same thing?

 

[zacksbrokenmustang]

I do, and I would never go down that journey in Florida heat. Big ass radiator, max hood venting, radiator ducting, 170 thermostat, water spraying on rads, shortshifting most of the time, cooldown laps, and if it's above 80F (which in Florida is almost always) I just take a different car. There is just no fun in it, instead of looking where you drive and focusing on what you do, you keep looking at temp gauges.

This is about continious runs at or close to max RPM for 25-30 minutes non-stop. Are you talking about the same thing?

Honestly this is pretty much what I had expected to hear. I am also prepping a miata as a track car but every time I drive the mustang on the street I think about how fun it would be on track if I got cooling under control

 

[Angrey]

I do, and I would never go down that journey in Florida heat. Big ass radiator, max hood venting, radiator ducting, 170 thermostat, water spraying on rads, shortshifting most of the time, cooldown laps, and if it's above 80F (which in Florida is almost always) I just take a different car. There is just no fun in it, instead of looking where you drive and focusing on what you do, you keep looking at temp gauges.

This is about continious runs at or close to max RPM for 25-30 minutes non-stop. Are you talking about the same thing?

I was gonna say, either his CHT sensor is fouled or he's not looking at the proper things. I have all the cooling mods (radiator, hood vents) and just sitting in traffic long enough the CHT's and ECT climb and climb. And they did that before I put the blower on. Back when I was N/A I've seen IAT's almost at 150F in the hottest times of the year sitting at the longest lights. Now the fan logic is better with the tune and cruising everything is hunkey dorey but sitting in FL heat at a stop light, everything just climbs and climbs.

Steady state I sit about 192F CHT in 85F ambients, but without air moving (even with the fans) I'll see 200-220F depending on how long I've been sitting. Stop and go traffic is no bueno. I don't really pay attention to the ECT temps anymore.

Flogging the car under load and moving is another matter altogether, but just normal street driving on any setup (N/A or otherwise) you're going to see CHT's and ECT's run up and down.

 

[jpjr501]

I do, and I would never go down that journey in Florida heat. Big ass radiator, max hood venting, radiator ducting, 170 thermostat, water spraying on rads, shortshifting most of the time, cooldown laps, and if it's above 80F (which in Florida is almost always) I just take a different car. There is just no fun in it, instead of looking where you drive and focusing on what you do, you keep looking at temp gauges.

This is about continious runs at or close to max RPM for 25-30 minutes non-stop. Are you talking about the same thing?

I am talking worse, not moving in summer Florida traffic. As long as I’m moving the car runs 170-190 even extremely hard (Several WOT runs) with all the cooling mods. With the blower my car is the opposite where it runs the hottest when still. I can run as hard as I want if I am moving.

 

[zacksbrokenmustang]

I am talking worse, not moving in summer Florida traffic. As long as I’m moving the car runs 170-190 even extremely hard (Several WOT runs) with all the cooling mods. With the blower my car is the opposite where it runs the hottest when still. I can run as hard as I want if I am moving.

Im talking about beating on it on sebring, homestead, daytona, ect…

i can beat the balls off of my car on the street and never come close to the heat that a few laps at a racetrack will put in my car.

i have no issues on the street with wide open pulls back to back. My issues come on racetracks after 10-25 minute sessions of pure abuse where im either in the throttle or on the brakes hard.

 

[jpjr501]

Im talking about beating on it on sebring, homestead, daytona, ect…

i can beat the balls off of my car on the street and never come close to the heat that a few laps at a racetrack will put in my car.

i have no issues on the street with wide open pulls back to back. My issues come on racetracks after 10-25 minute sessions of pure abuse where im either in the throttle or on the brakes hard.

You’ll still need the same mods regardless. No stock cooling system can provide proper cooling especially since you’re adding extra heat with the blower. Upgraded radiator, 160 stat, high flow or electric water pump, Water Wetter, fans turned on high early.

How are the Brembos on track? Love my Brembos, rely on them heavily.

 

[zacksbrokenmustang]

You’ll still need the same mods regardless. No stock cooling system can provide proper cooling especially since you’re adding extra heat with the blower. Upgraded radiator, 160 stat, high flow or electric water pump, Water Wetter, fans turned on high early.

How are the Brembos on track? Love my Brembos, rely on them heavily.

The brembos are fine, I was on a pretty tame street tire when I tracked the mustang with the firestone indy 500s. So I wasnt close to the braking capabilities of those massive 6 pistons. The tires just didnt have a lot of bite. But I also have a lot of track experience in a miata on slicks that stops a LOT quicker. The tires matter a lot more for your braking capabilities than a big brake like that.

if you do track it, just make sure you do a true track pad and brake fluid. It will cook the stock fluid very fast and a stock set of pads would be gone in a day.

 

[tosha]

Honestly this is pretty much what I had expected to hear. I am also prepping a miata as a track car but every time I drive the mustang on the street I think about how fun it would be on track if I got cooling under control

Yeah, unfortunately.
What I noticed is it is highly dependent on ambients. Here up north, I have some luxury of chilly track days, and I can mostly make it work in temps below 70F.
Hell, we had snow squalls during our first track weekend 3 weeks ago and average ambients were around 40F. I didn't take mustang out anyways and used another car, because running 750hp RWD car on Cup 2's in these conditions would be madness (one person kissed the wall in his brand new M4 CS on the morning first day).

And even considering all of that, trying to make my Mustang work well as track car has been a money pit. Even if you figure out the engine, you'll need to do transmission (good luck if you are AT), differential cooling and etc.

Actually, the most viable solution that I would try is to bring the power down either through a bigger pulley (cannot find one for Roush SC), or/and through some tuning process (clueless how it can be done practically), and then all of the cooling mods might work. I would be happy if I had a way to go down by about 100hp, power I have now is useless on the street anyways and I have no interest in drag racing.

I was gonna say, either his CHT sensor is fouled or he's not looking at the proper things

Right, there is no secret solution button. If you burn 700+hp worth of fuel, you need appropriate set of coolers to reject all that heat. Ford and Chevy have it figured out with GT500 and ZL1-1LE. We just need to replicate all of it (10 or 15 radiators if I'm not mistaken ), make it work reliably and also scale it up for higher compression ratio and weaker parts inside stock Coyote vs Predator. Then deal with all the extra weight we just added.

I am talking worse, not moving in summer Florida traffic. As long as I’m moving the car runs 170-190 even extremely hard (Several WOT runs) with all the cooling mods. With the blower my car is the opposite where it runs the hottest when still. I can run as hard as I want if I am moving.

With all due respect, If you never taken your car to a race track like Daytona and haven't tried pushing it properly for half hour, I don't think you fully understand the conditions we are discussing. In the hands of a good driver, your car will go into full limp mode in less than 5 laps and what your tuner configured with fans won't matter a tiny bit. Several WOT runs is nothing compared to this in terms of engine heat load.

 

[jpjr501]

The brembos are fine, I was on a pretty tame street tire when I tracked the mustang with the firestone indy 500s. So I wasnt close to the braking capabilities of those massive 6 pistons. The tires just didnt have a lot of bite. But I also have a lot of track experience in a miata on slicks that stops a LOT quicker. The tires matter a lot more for your braking capabilities than a big brake like that.

if you do track it, just make sure you do a true track pad and brake fluid. It will cook the stock fluid very fast and a stock set of pads would be gone in a day.

I ran SCCA for 8 years back in 1996-2004

Yeah, unfortunately.
What I noticed is it is highly dependent on ambients. Here up north, I have some luxury of chilly track days, and I can mostly make it work in temps below 70F.
Hell, we had snow squalls during our first track weekend 3 weeks ago and average ambients were around 40F. I didn't take mustang out anyways and used another car, because running 750hp RWD car on Cup 2's in these conditions would be madness (one person kissed the wall in his brand new M4 CS on the morning first day).

And even considering all of that, trying to make my Mustang work well as track car has been a money pit. Even if you figure out the engine, you'll need to do transmission (good luck if you are AT), differential cooling and etc.

Actually, the most viable solution that I would try is to bring the power down either through a bigger pulley (cannot find one for Roush SC), or/and through some tuning process (clueless how it can be done practically), and then all of the cooling mods might work. I would be happy if I had a way to go down by about 100hp, power I have now is useless on the street anyways and I have no interest in drag racing.


Right, there is no secret solution button. If you burn 700+hp worth of fuel, you need appropriate set of coolers to reject all that heat. Ford and Chevy have it figured out with GT500 and ZL1-1LE. We just need to replicate all of it (10 or 15 radiators if I'm not mistaken ), make it work reliably and also scale it up for higher compression ratio and weaker parts inside stock Coyote vs Predator. Then deal with all the extra weight we just added.

With all due respect, If you never taken your car to a race track like Daytona and haven't tried pushing it properly for half hour, I don't think you fully understand the conditions we are discussing. In the hands of a good driver, your car will go into full limp mode in less than 5 laps and what your tuner configured with fans won't matter a tiny bit. Several WOT runs is nothing compared to this in terms of engine heat load.

I ran SCCA for 8 years and totally understand. I haven’t raced my current car, it’s not setup for that. However, after owning 6 Mustangs and 2 SCCA race cars (SN95’s), I am confident that any kind of abuse you’re doing to a supercharged car in this heat, you’ll need to do major cooling upgrades regardless. You’re asking a question on an open forum so we are only providing life experiences.

 

[tosha]

I ran SCCA for 8 years back in 1996-2004

I ran SCCA for 8 years and totally understand. I haven’t raced my current car, it’s not setup for that. However, after owning 6 Mustangs and 2 SCCA race cars (SN95’s), I am confident that any kind of abuse you’re doing to a supercharged car in this heat, you’ll need to do major cooling upgrades regardless. You’re asking a question on an open forum so we are only providing life experiences.

Don't take my post as negative, didn't mean to say anything against your experience. I was talking purely from practical perspective of tracking this specific platform with supercharged engine. Appreciate constructive discussion.

What I'm trying to say is the mods that you have mentioned are necesary, but nowhere near enough to run it on track reliably. I also don't ask any question in this specific thread . I share what I have experience myself so far

 

[GTP]

I do, and I would never go down that journey in Florida heat. Big ass radiator, max hood venting, radiator ducting, 170 thermostat, water spraying on rads, shortshifting most of the time, cooldown laps, and if it's above 80F (which in Florida is almost always) I just take a different car. There is just no fun in it, instead of looking where you drive and focusing on what you do, you keep looking at temp gauges.

This is about continuous runs at or close to max RPM for 25-30 minutes non-stop. Are you talking about the same thing?

^^^ THIS ^^^
And every following post by @tosha

Although very long, the "master" thread on this is:
Track Time Limited due to High CHT
You can read it forwards or backwards.
My DIY solution is post #443.

I've tested 45min run continuous 228CHT (=success), although I am not supercharged. For SC you may want to look into possibility of retrofitting the GT500 radiator.

Sponsored