Radiator fan tune

[Table Lamp]

Sounds like you need to take a step back and do some more learning. If you don't know what knock is, what are you doing this for? Just because you heard it on Facebook?

Not trying to be mean, everyone was new and un-informed at some point. But you're going down the wrong path.

Yessir ima research a little bit more but my main coal was to keep my Mustang as cool as possible without hurting it

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[Cobra Jet]

You’ve been given excellent advice throughout your other thread from many M6G members, where we also touched on the thermostat…
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wind-reflectors-removal.195606/#post-3918238

190-210 is not outlandish at all for operating parameters of any stock vehicle used on the street. I don’t know where this perceived notion that the temp range is dire and “must put in cooler thermostat” comes from….

 

[EFI]

You’ve been given excellent advice throughout your other thread

At this point I don't think he's on here looking for answers or advice, more so validation for his misconceived ideas and choices.

 

[1MeanZ]

For those that are actually looking for accurate info, here is some.

This is a screen shot of a factory tune on an '16 GT. The graph shows desired fan speed (as a %). Vertical axis is ambient temp, horizontal axis is engine coolant temp.

The only way I know of to change this is to reflash the tune. The comment about using Forscan to make this change is in error.

 

[galaxy]

I don’t know where this perceived notion that the temp range is dire and “must put in cooler thermostat” comes from….

It’s a holdover from the old days, just like 3,000 mile oil changes. Same thing.

 

[ice445]

It’s a holdover from the old days, just like 3,000 mile oil changes. Same thing.

To be fair, I do think the temp range these cars want to run at is asinine (at least the GT). The car is clearly set up to run under 200F most of the time, but then Ford set up the grille shutter system to force the car to run from 210-220CHT constantly for that .01% efficiency boost. So the fans are usually running way more than they should.

It's not even close, if I lock out my shutters, I'll basically never see over 200CHT while I'm moving, and it takes way longer to reach the temp that the fan kicks on at when you're driving in traffic. And as engineer mike pointed out, your knock resistance is higher if you keep it under 200, so it's free performance, even if running at those higher temperatures doesn't actually hurt anything.

Just my personal opinion. I also live at altitude and that changes things a lot. I don't think the system really seems to count DA into its shutter calculations, although it will consider ambients at least. Over 100F and they don't shut at lower speeds.

 

[1MeanZ]

I don’t know where this perceived notion that the temp range is dire and “must put in cooler thermostat” comes from….

In the 80s and 90s on the early OBD1 EFI setups running the coolant temp at 160 instead of 195 did net gains in many cases. It usually added fuel, which in some cases was helpful, but more importantly it allowed more aggressive ignition timing advance. Lower coolant temp was less likely to detonate, especially with the crummy combustion chambers utilized on some engines at the time.

Today with modern controls and better cylinder heads it’s not the gain it used to be. I run a 170 thermostat in my car (along with adjusted fan schedule) not to GAIN power but to KEEP it by giving myself a little extra detonation resistance as my tune is fairly aggressive.

 

[Cobra Jet]

In the 80s and 90s on the early OBD1 EFI setups running the coolant temp at 160 instead of 195 did net gains in many cases. It usually added fuel, which in some cases was helpful, but more importantly it allowed more aggressive ignition timing advance. Lower coolant temp was less likely to detonate, especially with the crummy combustion chambers utilized on some engines at the time.

Today with modern controls and better cylinder heads it’s not the gain it used to be. I run a 170 thermostat in my car (along with adjusted fan schedule) not to GAIN power but to KEEP it by giving myself a little extra detonation resistance as my tune is fairly aggressive.

Yes to all the above… great post.

Your case or scenario is an “exception”, because you do have a tune already and as mentioned, an aggressive tune. So what you did works for you and falls within such parameters where a lower T-stat and electric fan control mod IS beneficial to YOU and YOUR vehicle’s performance use BECAUSE your PCM is already operating beyond a factory tune. Same is true for any forced induction OR high HP N/A engines where the end goal is performance and/or track oriented use.

The problem with any forum (including this one) when it comes to certain mods is:
Just because someone like you benefits from it AND it was done properly, isn’t going to be beneficial to Sheeples 1-200…. because those 200 Sheeple are only daily driving a stock S550 from A to B with no other mods. They read out of context, look at their daily driver, see “190*-200*” on their digital dash readout and just recount “add 170 stat to be cooler”… and believe it is cause for popping in a lower stat OR modifying fan turn on/off parameters on a completely STOCK car.

The tech many of us provide on here is to educate others who are new to the hobby or vehicle platform. We’re ALL into modding this or that… but the question comes down to “how will the car be used and what is the expectations”? I mean sure, we can all say “yea, pop in a 170* stat and it will work wonders”… but it will only work where other parameters or hardware has been upgraded to justify that particular mod. For a daily driver? No, popping a 170* stat and messing with fans speeds isn’t going to do diddly.

IF the car is 100% stock, is just a daily driver AND it’s experiencing abnormal or detrimental over heating issues just driving normally - then there are other avenues that need investigation as there could be problems with one component or more. These S550’s were engineered and put through rigorous testing in extreme temps before being a production vehicle available to the public. So the current factory stat and fan on/off parameters should suffice
In nearly any environment when just driving down a highway or being stuck in traffic. Even if doing some weekend blasts at a local drag track in a 100% stock S550, the factory t-stat and fan programming is more than sufficient.

The OP also removed factory air deflectors in his other linked post - when asked for advice about doing it and good advice was given by many not to do it on a stock vehicle.

If going against the very advice being given on a question seeking legit advice is a thing, then why bother to ask if just going to do the opposite anyway…

It’s like:
OP: If I put my head into fire, will it burn off all my hair and roast my eyeballs out of my skull?

Forum response: Hell yes, it will hurt like hell and you won’t be able to see anymore. Don’t attempt.

The next day:
OP: just letting you know I did it; yes my hair melted, any skin left on my head is as crispy as burnt bacon… I only lost one eye, but can’t see very well as my other eye looks like a burnt marshmallow….

Forum: Yep, we told you so.

LOL!

 

[1MeanZ]

If going against the very advice being given on a question seeking legit advice is a thing, then why bother to ask if just going to do the opposite anyway…

It’s like:
OP: If I put my head into fire, will it burn off all my hair and roast my eyeballs out of my skull?

Forum response: Hell yes, it will hurt like hell and you won’t be able to see anymore. Don’t attempt.

The next day:
OP: just letting you know I did it; yes my hair melted, any skin left on my head is as crispy as burnt bacon… I only lost one eye, but can’t see very well as my other eye looks like a burnt marshmallow….

Forum: Yep, we told you so.

LOL!

You are correct here and normally I wouldn't come and partake of the ignorance by adding to it with my posts LOL. In this case I was trying to salvage what's here with some actual context and info. I trust that some forum users are still able to pay attention to detail and realize that some of these decisions on how we modify our cars are nuanced. This is why forums are 8454845x better than the cesspool of ignorance that is Facebook.

I'm certainly not new to cars, but relatively new to S550 Mustangs. I'm just trying to post the content I wish others would post so we can all actually learn something, hence the HP Tuners screen shots etc.

 

[luc]

A thermostat only control the minimum operating temperature, not the maximum. Don’t know where people get their information
What control the maximum temperature is the cooling system Btu’s capacity

 

[galaxy]

What control the maximum temperature is the cooling system Btu’s capacity

I remember back in the day, had a buddy with a ‘32 Ford hotrod. Carbureted 302, nothing super exotic. They were constantly chasing overheating problems. Throwing parts at it, cooler thermostat, no thermostat, and on and on. Well, I finally convinced him to put a hotter thermostat in it; a 180° if memory serves. Guess what? Overheating fixed. My theory (never proven), was the colder/no thermostats were letting fluid circulate too fast through that small radiator on that small front end of a car, and not extracting the heat. Could be wrong on that, but the hotter thermostat fixed it. They couldn’t believe it.

 

[WildHorse]

but then Ford set up the grille shutter system to force the car to run from 210-220CHT constantly for that .01% efficiency boost.

Well my GT doesn't have those shutters.. so Ford put them on some models for other reasons.

Anyways to the OP: Heat equals horsepower.

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