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Pretty much proves the point that environmentalists goal is not clean energy, but moreso control.

Idk, regardless of the naming and whether or not it's true to its core, that thing would be pretty sweet with a 5.0 or V6 TT.

It's there, just really small openings. Alot of us open up that area of the grill to allow for more air into the snorkel that directs air to the filter. Specifically for Mach1 bumpers, I believe you can pop off that fake foglight cover and it will do the same.

Check out my experience with Vicrez below. Long story short, I'm out $1500 with nothing to show for and the company has been telling me lies for 9 months that I'll get something in return. Oh and kicker I just found out recently: the shipping company did end up giving them money for the damage...

Update on the matter for those interested. The shipping company did end up giving money to Vicrez for the 2nd damage claim they made with them. But Vicrez decided to just keep that money for themselves and not ship anything to me. 9 months and I am still out $1500 with nothing to show for.

Then you should probably put in the correct oil viscosity as called in the manual. It's spec'd for 5w20 not 5w30.

Why, do they check what brand of oil you got in there when doing warranty work?

Except for the engine. The DH is the Mach1 equivalent, not the 350.

Stay with OEM stuff, no need to go crazy based on your driving.

How much are you saving on a tankful of 87 vs 91...maybe $5? How much are you spending on a full day track event...probably north of $500? In the grand scheme of things, is $5 out of $500 really that big of a deal? Pack lunch instead of buying it at the track and you just saved yourself more...

87 is bad enough for the street, why would you want to run that in such an extreme environment as a track day where you're going WOT for minutes on end and everything gets so hot? It's not even for the power, but the knock control. I wouldn't even consider it.

It does if you drive around without a hood on or if you have a big hole in it. Generally speaking wiring should not be getting wet everytime it rains if you have an OEM hood on, that's the whole point of them is to keep the elements out. Sure a tiny bit of water can get in right below the hood...

Same as the car they came in originally...not as of right now.

I would think so, it's a shortblock built to OEM specifications by the OEM...just with different components. Same block, stroke, bore etc. Secondly, not sure exactly how anyone would be able to tell you have an aftermarket rotating assembly when the engine is in the car and running. The block...

If you're happy with the longevity of the stock engine, I would say that's a solid choice as the bottom end is virtually the same. If you want somewhat better longevity, the Aluminator has the upgraded components. Along with proper oil control from the bigger pan and a solid top end should make...

I would drop $6k on the aluminator shortblock and button up with your topend and the rest of the accessories. I would also do the Predator pan and oil pump along with a few other small upgrades in the valvetrain.

They're all the same. Just make sure you get non-magride springs if you don't have magride and the opposite...get magride specific springs if you have magride. The Shelby springs will fit anything from a V6 to a Mach1.

Should be right below the driver's side taillight on the inside of the trunk, you have to pull some carpet panels out of the way to see it.

40 when you started the engine normally, or 40 while you were cranking and priming it prior to actually starting? Did you see any gain in psi while you were priming the engine?

Is it though? Have you measured how much pressure it was actually making? I've done this when building engines, and before you start it for the first time you're supposed to pull the fuel pump fuse, drain the fuel lines of gas and just let it crank (without starting obviously since there's no...