Getrag MT82-D4 beginning issues?

[prufrock28]

Hi All,

I just purchased a 2019 Bullitt (produced/sold Jan 2019, now with 19,000 miles) and may be experiencing some early Getrag probs. Basically, the car shifts fine unless over 6,000 rpm, where it begins to get a little bit reluctant to enter the next gate, and makes an unavoidable Zrrrrrt sound during clutch pedal return.

I've been reading a bit about clutch/shifter/trans upgrades on this and also the Bullitt forum and trying to figure out a plan to address the issue.

1. Is this normal for a G6 Mustang, or the beginning of a problem?
2. If a problem, what is likely going on? Synchros, shifting forks, clutch, shifter?
3. What is an orderly response to fixing, e.g. try shifter mod first, followed by clutch mod, followed by trans mod... until fixed.

Any help appreciated!

-Doug

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[sms2022]

Sounds like clutch issues. The trans is done doing its thing as soon as you let go of the shifter and start releasing the clutch

 

[chesster51]

Probably because of the way the factory shifter mounts to the body as opposed to the trans. The trans rolls a little at high rpm shifts and being body mounted the shifter can't roll with it and can be misaligned. MGW and Barton shifters fix the problem

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Is it just one particular gear like going 2nd to 3rd? Or, is it all gears. If only one, might be a shift fork. If multiple, then I’d say clutch. I’ve got a late model ‘18 (built May 2018) M6. Supposedly, this was after the shift fork update. I’ve not heard many issues with shift forks after the update. There were some ‘18’s where shift forks were breaking (usually 3rd gear) before that update. I’ve personally never experienced the high rpm lockout that some report (which an MGW or Barton should fix). I’ve got 23K “moderately aggressive” miles so far on mine with zero issues (bone stock tranny/clutch).

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Probably because of the way the factory shifter mounts to the body as opposed to the trans. The trans rolls a little at high rpm shifts and being body mounted the shifter can't roll with it and can be misaligned. MGW and Barton shifters fix the problem

What OP is describing is exactly how it feels for me when the 2-3 shift doesn't *ahem* work out so well. But i've only ever had it on that shift. The car pulls so much power in first gear and then takes off like a bat out of hell in 2nd gear i guess it makes sense that it happens on 2-3 shift the most. Car would probably be unshiftable in 1st gear under torque if they didn't have all that torque management bullshit.

 

[prufrock28]

Is it just one particular gear like going 2nd to 3rd? Or, is it all gears. If only one, might be a shift fork. If multiple, then I’d say clutch. I’ve got a late model ‘18 (built May 2018) M6. Supposedly, this was after the shift fork update. I’ve not heard many issues with shift forks after the update. There were some ‘18’s where shift forks were breaking (usually 3rd gear) before that update. I’ve personally never experienced the high rpm lockout that some report (which an MGW or Barton should fix). I’ve got 23K “moderately aggressive” miles so far on mine with zero issues (bone stock tranny/clutch).

Thanks for the response. First to second and second to third. It's not a lockout per se, just a hesitation. I'm probably more curious about the Zrrrrt sound.

 

[MrMike]

"Zrrrrt" is usually grinding.

If synchros are toast it wouldn't let you into gear w/o double-clutching or you'd get pop-outs, right?

I also think clutch issues.

 

[sms2022]

OP, are you completely in gear and letting the clutch out when you hear the noise?

If not, you need to hold the clutch in another second and complete the shift before you start letting it out.

if it’s going zrrrrt with the clutch all the way in, it’s a clutch adjustment/bleeding issue, your shifter is loose, or worst case synchros are shot. If you’ve been trying to complete the shift at the same time you let out the clutch there’s a good chance your synchros are gone.

 

[prufrock28]

The Zrrrt happens after the gear has been selected and the clutch pedal is returning and just where the disengagement happens towards the top of travel. A vibration is sometimes also felt under the shifter. ?

 

[sms2022]

The Zrrrt happens after the gear has been selected and the clutch pedal is returning and just where the disengagement happens towards the top of travel. A vibration is sometimes also felt under the shifter. ?

Check trans mounts/shifter mount under the car. Make sure everything is tight. If so I’m leaning towards a clutch issue and you probably should take the car in and have it looked at.

 

[prufrock28]

Check trans mounts/shifter mount under the car. Make sure everything is tight. If so I’m leaning towards a clutch issue and you probably should take the car in and have it looked at.

Thanks. I got a local Mustang specialist to put it up on a lift. Everything looks tight and true. The mechanic believes it's a clutch issue as well. Interesting to get under there and see the shifter mechanism and visualize how to access it. I believe I will do a clutch and shifter upgrade together in the near future.

 

[sms2022]

Thanks. I got a local Mustang specialist to put it up on a lift. Everything looks tight and true. The mechanic believes it's a clutch issue as well. Interesting to get under there and see the shifter mechanism and visualize how to access it. I believe I will do a clutch and shifter upgrade together in the near future.

Before changing the clutch I’d try a clutch adjustment and disconnecting the clutch line at the trans and letting some new fluid drain down, then bleeding the clutch by pumping the pedal 300 or so times.

I’m not exactly sure how to adjust the clutch on this car because I haven’t done it yet so maybe someone else can help or try a search

 

[prufrock28]

UPDATE
Ford technician says the Zrrrt sound is from worn synchros. Says $3,300 to replace worn parts or $4,600 to replace transmission with a rebuilt unit. Really, on a car with 19,000 miles?! That's a bummer. I have a 3rd party warranty that is likely to cover most of the cost. Seems an ideal time to do shifter/clutch as well. Thoughts from the group?

 

[RedTetsu13]

UPDATE
Ford technician says the Zrrrt sound is from worn synchros. Says $3,300 to replace worn parts or $4,600 to replace transmission with a rebuilt unit. Really, on a car with 19,000 miles?! That's a bummer. I have a 3rd party warranty that is likely to cover most of the cost. Seems an ideal time to do shifter/clutch as well. Thoughts from the group?

If your warranty is eating that cost I say why not since they'll already have stuff down and out for you. Before you do the clutch I would make sure you actually need a new one though, but for sure do the shifter (also see if they can replace your trans fluid with something like bg synchro shift ii or some other third party trans fluid).

 

[NGOT8R]

Build it using the best parts you can find rather than simply replacing it, that is of course if you intend to run it hard. You can stick with the factory clutch, but my school of thought on that is, if you’re already right there, why not upgrade to a better one (depending on which clutch, around $1200-$2400)? At the very least, I would suggest adding billet aluminum shift forks for gears 1-4 and carbon fiber lined synchros (about $1K in parts). If you want to go deeper than that, you can have the hard parts cryogenically treated to make them stronger (about $700 for this service).

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