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Fix for loud metallic buzz from bell housing plate

Tomster

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Some have reported that they have a loud raspy metallic sound when the engine is in the 4K RPM range at operating temperature. I have noticed this on one of my R models and have read reports of dynamat being used to eliminate the problem.

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First a quick description of the problem and the reason for the nuisance problem. There is a sandwich plate that interfaces between th engine block and the bell housing of the transmission. Its fastening and construction is such that the vibration of the engine can cause it to buzz with sympathetic harmonics that cause the plate to vibrate. I noticed that when I was under the car today, that this plate can be moved around with my fingernail. Many have decided to take their car into their dealerships to get the problem fixed. My experience with the problem is that the engine must be at operating temperature to obtain or observe the defect. This can lead to frustration because (unless fully understood) is not easily reproduced. You would almost have to pull into the dealership at operating temp and tell the tech to jump in and go for a ride.

I have read other people's reports of how changing the harmonics of the sandwich plate by using dynamat has been helpful. I recently bought some dynamat and decided to give it a try. In conjunction with getting one of my other Rs prepped for track, I decided to spend a little time under HR871 to give it a shot. As a side note, I think it would be stupid to drop a transmission to replace a plate (which has been updated due to this issue) when a simple change in harmonics could solve the problem. So up on Jacks she went.

Examination of the sandwich plate found exactly as described..... a flimsy aluminum plate held by few fasteners. I took a few quick measurements and cut out a piece of dynamat to fit the majority of the exposed portion of the plate.

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I then cleaned the plate with 90% isopropyl alcohol to prep the substrate for adhesion.

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I applied the dynamat and pressed it down ensuring that it had firmly adhered to the sandwich plate. Once all that was confirmed, then came my favorite part..... test drive!

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I warmed her up gradually until 190F. Once there it was my mission to get it up to operation temp (212ish)... the temp that usually produced the metallic buzz at or near 4k RPM.

The result?? No buzz, not rattle, no nothing.

If you are having this issue, dont take it to the dealer and have them tear your drivetrain apart..... buy some dynamat and spend about a half hour fixing the underlying problem.....
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orangegrower

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How large of a piece of Dynamat would it take to do the job?? Thanks
 

tdzee

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Excellent fix :thumbsup:

Am curious to know how it holds up to the heat. Pls provide an update after you have a chance to run it a while. Thx for the report.
 
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Tomster

Tomster

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Excellent fix :thumbsup:

Am curious to know how it holds up to the heat. Pls provide an update after you have a chance to run it a while. Thx for the report.
I don't think that dynamat is going anywhere anytime soon.
 
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Tomster

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How large of a piece of Dynamat would it take to do the job?? Thanks
Oh, maybe 12"x7" or so. I didn't measure it, because usually you cant buy the stuff in sizes that small.
 

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DCShelby

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You should not have to apply dynamatt to a 65k car under warranty. I got the new plate installed with no issues. If you are out of warranty or have a crap dealer, I’ll agree with you.
 

orangegrower

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ou should not have to apply dynamatt to a 65k car under warranty. I got the new plate installed with no issues. If you are out of warranty or have a crap dealer, I’ll agree with you.
The problem is you don't know if you have a crap dealer or technician until you are crapped apon. Nobody touches my car unless the problem is catastrophic.
 
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Tomster

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The problem is you don't know if you have a crap dealer or technician until you are crapped apon. Nobody touches my car unless the problem is catastrophic.
I just double checked it, the piece I cut off from the roll was 12"x6".

I wouldn't tear my drivetrain apart when something as simple as this would fix the problem. I don't care if you had the best tech in the business, there is no reason to tear it all apart for this.
 

orangegrower

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I wouldn't tear my drivetrain apart when something as simple as this would fix the problem. I don't care if you had the best tech in the business, there is no reason to tear it all apart for this.
I agree.
 

DCShelby

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My dealer had already changed out the engine, so I assumed they would be able to change out the rear cylinder block plate.
 

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Tomster

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My dealer had already changed out the engine, so I assumed they would be able to change out the rear cylinder block plate.
Its ok. I understand. If it was all apart, Id say go for it. However I wouldn't tear it all apart for a plate that has no significant mechanical purpose. It is essentially a dust cover.
 

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That sound drove me nuts. It had to get fixed. Not all of us live in a house with garage space with the ability to jack the car up and work on it. In my case I don’t so dealer was only option.
 
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Tomster

Tomster

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That sound drove me nuts. It had to get fixed. Not all of us live in a house with garage space with the ability to jack the car up and work on it. In my case I don’t so dealer was only option.
you ought to see my garage.... it wasn't a pleasure.
 

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You guys that had this rattle and know it to be the plate, did you do anything initially to verify that's what it indeed was? Is there a real easy temp repair or something just for troubleshooting it? And then tackle something once confirmed?
 

DCShelby

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Dynamatt it or I saw a thread someplace where a person used a punch tool to make small indents in the plate, thereby changing its resonance frequency. Or get a new plate put in.
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