Disable Active Exhaust

[Luke5.0]

I'm sure there's other threads possibly about this but has anyone been able to disable the active exhaust completely? I've gotten the actuator replaced at least 3 times and I'm just tired of having it replaced over and over. Pulling the fuse is one option that I've been doing for a few weeks but I'm looking for a way to disable it that won't throw any codes.

Considering selling the car so this would be the main reason I need it to not throw any codes.

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[silverbullet85]

You've replaced the actuators 3 times? I'm still on my oem ones from 2019. Is it possible that the wiring harnesses are chaffing and that's why they stop working? It's a pretty common issue and did happen to me, I didn't replace anything just fixed the wires that were exposed. They are just electric motors so they shouldn't break unless something is shorting. Check your wires or have them checked

 

[njweatherman]

Luke,

Why did you having to replace the actuator three times? Did you install something aftermarket?
I believe others on here either pull the fuse (like you have been doing to keep it in track mode). Some used a tool called Forscan to disable it. Others bought an AWE bracket.
See this thread:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/exhaust-mode-selection-not-available.191108/

 

[junits15]

All tuning software will allow you disable this with one switch.

 

[Luke5.0]

The actuator was dead three separate times along with the wire being damaged one of those times. All I have is an H pipe, but it happened two times with fully stock exhaust (stock resonator) and now once with the h pipe.

So if I disabled through forscan would it still throw the codes? May have to try out the AWE bracket route

Thanks

 

[junits15]

The actuator was dead three separate times along with the wire being damaged one of those times. All I have is an H pipe, but it happened two times with fully stock exhaust (stock resonator) and now once with the h pipe.

So if I disabled through forscan would it still throw the codes? May have to try out the AWE bracket route

Thanks

no if its disabled there wont be codes, but your issue is likely that your H-pipe is too long. Check the clearance from the connector to the pinch welds. If its tight , cut an inch off the h-pipe

 

[daSNAK3]

+1 on exhaust sitting back too far.. makes no sense why you are burning through actuators so fast. Harness is probably taking damage due to exhaust being too far back.

 

[NGOT8R]

The actuator was dead three separate times along with the wire being damaged one of those times. All I have is an H pipe, but it happened two times with fully stock exhaust (stock resonator) and now once with the h pipe.

So if I disabled through forscan would it still throw the codes? May have to try out the AWE bracket route

Thanks

Relocating the actuators to the AWE bracket definitely works. Been running it for a while now.

 

[Luke5.0]

Tried out the forscan route, and although the error doesn't show on screen anymore it is still throwing code P26FE with my OBD2 scan tool . Guess I gotta go with the bracket now and may possibly look into slightly shortening the h pipe like you guys mentioned.

 

[NGOT8R]

Tried out the forscan route, and although the error doesn't show on screen anymore it is still throwing code P26FE with my OBD2 scan tool . Guess I gotta go with the bracket now and may possibly look into slightly shortening the h pipe like you guys mentioned.

If you install the AWE bracket, there‘s no need to shorten the h pipe, unless you want to pull your exhaust tips in further. I may have missed it, but have you inspected the passenger side actuator wiring harness for chafing?

 

[Luke5.0]

I didn't see any chafing, but the dealer did provide 3 part #s which includes the harness.
JR3Z6554A, JR3Z14A411J, and JR3Z14A411H. They want $1900 to fix it!

I can see the right side valve slightly moving but its struggling to move as if its stuck, could try some wd40 on it.

 

[NGOT8R]

I didn't see any chafing, but the dealer did provide 3 part #s which includes the harness.
JR3Z6554A, JR3Z14A411J, and JR3Z14A411H. They want $1900 to fix it!

I can see the right side valve slightly moving but its struggling to move as if its stuck, could try some wd40 on it.

That’s a very steep price for repairing that system! Have you removed the actuators and made sure the springs are seated in their slots? They could also be hanging up causing the valves not to move properly.

 

[TonyNJ]

I just went down this rabbit hole with the codes, fuses and all on a GT500. It ended up being BOTH harnesses and BOTH actuators. Zero issues since.

Aside, there is a slight rattle in the exhaust valves when in any mode except "Track". I'm thinking rattle is indicative of an underlying muffler/valve deterioration problem. However, as you all know, the valves aren't removable and the exhaust is a one piece system past the resonator. $2500 for that part from dealership. It does include a set of new actuators though.

My guess is the valves are breaking the actuators.

 

[Vagabund]

Tried out the forscan route, and although the error doesn't show on screen anymore it is still throwing code P26FE with my OBD2 scan tool . Guess I gotta go with the bracket now and may possibly look into slightly shortening the h pipe like you guys mentioned.

Hi, what lines in FORScan did you change to disable the Active Exhaust?
Thank you in advance

 

[Torched10]

I'm sure there's other threads possibly about this but has anyone been able to disable the active exhaust completely? I've gotten the actuator replaced at least 3 times and I'm just tired of having it replaced over and over. Pulling the fuse is one option that I've been doing for a few weeks but I'm looking for a way to disable it that won't throw any codes.

Considering selling the car so this would be the main reason I need it to not throw any codes.

If you're gonna sell it active exhaust is big selling feature so don't permanently disable it

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