BBQ Tick Test Request

[fmc_smt]

Yes it does , and so does the 2011 . But again here is the manual for a 11

1. NOTICE: Verify that the connecting rod and rod cap have orientation numbers cast into them. If not, number the connecting rod and rod cap for correct orientation. Failure to do so can result in engine damage.
   
   Remove the bolts and the connecting rod cap. Discard the bolts.

1. NOTICE: Do not scratch the cylinder walls or crankshaft journals with the connecting rod or engine damage may occur.
   
   Use the Connecting Rod Installer to push the piston through the top of the cylinder block.

1. Repeat the previous 2 steps for each of the remaining pistons.

1. Disassemble the 8 pistons. For additional information, refer to Piston in this section.

1. Remove the fasteners.
   1. Remove and discard the cross-mounted main cap bolts.
   1. Remove and discard the main bearing cap bolts and stud bolt.

1. Remove the main bearing caps (1), the lower crankshaft main bearings (2) and the lower thrust bearing (3).

1. Remove the crankshaft (1), the upper crankshaft main bearings (2) and the upper thrust washer (3) from the cylinder block.

1. Remove the 4 bolts and 4 piston cooling jets from the cylinder block.

NOTICE: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.

NOTICE: During engine assembly do not allow the piston connecting rods to come in contact with the piston cooling jets or engine damage may occur.

NOTE: During engine assembly it may become necessary to check bearing clearances and end play. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.

1. Record the main bearing code found on the front of the engine block.

1. Record the main bearing code found on the rear of the crankshaft.

1. NOTE: This chart is for selecting main bearings 1 and 5 only, the remaining bearings will be selected using a different chart in the next step.
   
   Using the data recorded earlier and the Bearing Select Fit Chart, Standard Bearings, determine the required bearing grade for main bearings 1 and 5.
   • Read the first letter of the engine block main bearing code and the first letter of the crankshaft main bearing code.
   • Read down the column below the engine block main bearing code letter and across the row next to the crankshaft main bearing code letter, until the 2 intersect. This is the required bearing grade(s) for the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing.
   • As an example, if the engine block code letter is "F" and the crankshaft code letter is "P", the correct bearing grade for this main bearing is a "1" for the upper bearing and a "2" for the lower bearing.
   • Repeat the above steps using the fifth letter of the block and crankshaft codes to select the No. 5 bearing.

1. NOTE: This chart is for selecting main bearings 2, 3 and 4 only.
   
   Using the data recorded earlier and the Bearing Select Fit Chart, Standard Bearings, determine the required bearing grade for main bearings 2, 3 and 4.
   • Read the second letter of the engine block main bearing code and the second letter of the crankshaft main bearing code.
   • Read down the column below the engine block main bearing code letter and across the row next to the crankshaft main bearing code letter, until the 2 intersect. This is the required bearing grade(s) for the No. 2 crankshaft main bearing.
   • As an example, if the engine block code letter is "F" and the crankshaft code letter is "P", the correct bearing grade for this main bearing is a "1" for the upper bearing and a "2" for the lower bearing.
   • Repeat the above steps using the third and fourth letters of the block and crankshaft codes to select the No. 3 and No. 4 bearings.

NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free of chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.

1. Install the 4 piston cooling jets and 4 bolts. Tighten in 2 stages.
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten an additional 45 degrees.

1. Install the crankshaft main bearings.
   • Install the crankshaft upper main bearings into the cylinder block.
   • Install the crankshaft lower main bearings and thrust bearing into the bearing caps.
   • Make sure all oil passages are aligned.
   • Lubricate all main bearings with clean engine oil.

1. NOTE: Lubricate the crankshaft bearing journals with clean engine oil.
   
   Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block.

1. NOTE: The oil groove on the thrust washer must face toward the rear of the engine (against the crankshaft thrust surface).
   
   Push the crankshaft rearward and install the rear crankshaft upper thrust washer at the back of the No. 5 main boss.

1. Install the main bearing caps and fasteners on the cylinder block and, keeping the caps as square as possible, alternately draw the caps down evenly using the cap fasteners.

1. Push the crankshaft forward to seat the crankshaft thrust washer. Hold the crankshaft in the forward position.

1. Tighten the vertical main bearing cap fasteners in the sequence shown, in 4 stages.
   • Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 20 to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 10 to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
   • Stage 3: Tighten fasteners 11 through 20 to 65 Nm (48 lb-ft).
   • Stage 4: Tighten fasteners 1 through 20 an additional 90 degrees.

1. Install the cross-mounted main bearing cap fasteners and tighten in the sequence shown, in 3 stages.
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft).
   • Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.

1. Check the crankshaft end play. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.

1. Check that crankshaft torque-to-turn does not exceed 6 Nm (53 lb-in).

1. Check the piston-to-cylinder block and piston ring clearances. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.

1. Assemble the pistons and position the piston ring gaps. For additional information, refer to Piston in this section.

1. Make sure the dimple in the piston faces the front of the engine.

1. NOTICE: Do not scratch the cylinder walls or crankshaft journals with the connecting rod or engine damage may occur.
   
   NOTICE: Do not allow the piston connecting rods to come in contact with the piston cooling jets or engine damage may occur.
   
   Use the Piston Ring Compressor and the Connecting Rod Installers to install the connecting rod with the upper connecting rod bearing in place.
   • Lubricate the piston and ring with clean engine oil.
   • Lubricate the rod bearings with clean engine oil.

1. NOTICE: Do not scratch the cylinder walls or crankshaft journals with the connecting rod or engine damage may occur.
   
   Once the connecting rod is seated on the crankshaft journal, remove the Connecting Rod Installers.

1. NOTICE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.
   
   NOTE: The connecting rod caps are of the "cracked" design and must mate with the connecting rod ends. Excessive bearing clearance will result if not mated correctly.
   
   Position the lower bearing and connecting rod and install the new bolts loosely.

1. Repeat the previous 5 steps for each of the remaining pistons.

1. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages.
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten to 38 Nm (28 lb-ft).
   • Stage 3: Tighten an additional 105 degrees.

1. Install the oil pump screen and pickup tube spacer.
   • Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

1. Rotate the inner rotor of the oil pump assembly to align the flats on the crankshaft and slip the oil pump over the crankshaft until seated against the block.
   • Rotate the oil pump until the bolt holes are aligned to the block and install the fasteners.

1. NOTE: Oil pump must be held against the cylinder block until all bolts are tightened.
   
   Tighten the fasteners in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
   • Stage 1: Hand tighten.
   • Stage 2: Tighten the bolt (1) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in), the stud bolt (2) to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft), the bolt (3) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) and the stud bolt (4) to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
   • Stage 3: Tighten the bolt (1) an additional 45 degrees, the stud bolt (2) an additional 75 degrees, the bolt (3) an additional 45 degrees and the stud bolt (4) an additional 60 degrees.

1. NOTE: If the rear crankshaft seal retaining plate is not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or 5 minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure may cause future oil leaks.
   
   Apply a 3.75 mm (0.147 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the rear crankshaft seal retainer mating surface on the engine block.

1. Install the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate and the 6 bolts, tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten an additional 45 degrees.

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[fmc_smt]

For shits I went and looked at the f-150 manual , same thing .

 

[GT Pony]

^^^ I'm betting Ford doesn't show in the service manual checking the rod side clearance because the manual is assuming all the same rods are being installed on the same crankshaft.

Ford (and any other motor manufacturer) should absolutely check the rod side clearance at the factory during production to verify if within specs - if not then I can see how bad motors could leave the factory. After all, they do call out a rod side clearance spec, because it is a critical clearance for proper motor setup. Maybe they have too much confidence in their individual parts production and assume the rod side clearance will be correct when everything is assembled ... just a guess. Yes, if all the individual parts are made to drawing specs, then all the clearances should be withing spec on the assembly ... but what's their QA process to verify that's really happening?

As we have seen, there have been some guys here where their shop mechanic said some rod side clearances were way out of spec. Just sloppy manufacturing IMO.

Thanks for all the digging in the service manuals.

 

[fmc_smt]

I agree that some of the videos appear to have more then desirable side clearance , but the one video , post , states that his technician checked it and it is out of spec . What I say is how can you say it is out of spec when Ford doses not have a way to check side clearance in the manual . Me being a tech I would have contacted TAC to see what procedure they would have me follow .

 

[GT Pony]

I agree that some of the videos appear to have more then desirable side clearance , but the one video , post , states that his technician checked it and it is out of spec . What I say is how can you say it is out of spec when Ford doses not have a way to check side clearance in the manual. Me being a tech I would have contacted TAC to see what procedure they would have me follow .

It's out of spec because is over the max allowed spec called out in the service manual. Ford put that spec in the manual for a reason. Knowing how to measure rod side clearance isn't a big mystery, even if Ford doesn't show how in the service manual.

 

[LowKey]

Just in relation to the OP, my driveway is very steep. I start the car on the upper (level) part of the driveway, it ticks (xylophone type noise, intermittent), then i back down the driveway, stop to shut the gate (steep angle) and it still ticks, there is no difference.

 

[GT Pony]

Just in relation to the OP, my driveway is very steep. I start the car on the upper (level) part of the driveway, it ticks (xylophone type noise, intermittent), then i back down the driveway, stop to shut the gate (steep angle) and it still ticks, there is no difference.

Thanks for the input. Doing a test like that was just something I wanted to verify if it made any difference in the ticking ... apparently not.

Even if it's excessive rod side clearance and this test doesn't make any difference, it doesn't mean it could still be rod side clearance causing the ticking. If the ticking went away it could be proof however.

 

[fmc_smt]

@GT Pony You Would have to get at least a 90 deg angle to test this theory . No response from the PM ?

 

[GT Pony]

Also note that some engines have the radius cut differently on each side of the rod face, so the rods need to go on in a specific orientation on the crank journal. I'm not sure if the Coyote is that way, but if it is then maybe engines that tick might have some rods installed out 180 degrees from where they should be (ie, the wrong side facing the opposite direction).

I found the answer to my own question. Yes, the Coyote rods do have a specific orientation that they must in when installed. So what happens if a rod or two is installed 180 degrees out?

 

[GT Pony]

@GT Pony You Would have to get at least a 90 deg angle to test this theory . No response from the PM ?

Yep, unknown how much tilt of the engine it would take. Anyone willing to lift your Mustang vertical with a crane and run the engine ... LoL.

Check your PM fmc_smt.

 

[GT Pony]

Anyone who's engine is torn apart should have the rod side clearance checked out. It's a quick and simple measurement.

 

[fmc_smt]

Ok would be nice if that was a gen1 threw gen3 engine . I plan on taking my car and raising it to a level that is beyond a driveway incline . Love how you can pull shit off the internet to make a point . When in fact your resources are a general assumption . I reached out to you so you can stop giving people a false hope that there engine is getting ready to have catastrophic failure when it is a known noise that is considered normal for said engine design .

 

[GT Pony]

Ok would be nice if that was a gen1 threw gen3 engine . I plan on taking my car and raising it to a level that is beyond a driveway incline . Love how you can pull shit off the internet to make a point . When in fact your resources are a general assumption . I reached out to you so you can stop giving people a false hope that there engine is getting ready to have catastrophic failure when it is a known noise that is considered normal for said engine design .

Whoa ... where did I ever say the engine was going to have "catastrophic failure" from the BBQ tick? In all the posts I've made on this chat board or the last 4 years I have never said or even eluded to that. I love how people have wild misconceptions reading between the lines of technical info like this - you're not the first guy. Regardless if Ford or anyone else considers it normal (after it existed for 8 years starting with the Gen1 Coyote) or not, we are trying to find the root cause since Ford will never say what the cause is.

Pulled shit off the internet? That rod side clearance spec is right out of the official Ford service manual. If the rods have too much side clearance they are out of spec, simple as that. I'm trying to run down a theory ... is anyone else?

Just because the Ford service manual doesn't show how to measure it doesn't mean if it's out of their published specs that it's OK.

I'm not here to have an argument about it, so please either help out or get out.

 

[fmc_smt]

Whoa ... where did I ever say the engine was going to have "catastrophic failure" from the BBQ tick? I love how people have wild misconceptions reading technical info like this. Regardless if Ford or anyone else considers it normal or not, we are trying to find the root cause since Ford will never say.

Pulled shit off the internet? That rod side clearance spec is right out of the official Ford service manual. If the rods have too much side clearance they are out of spec, simple as that. I'm trying to run down a theory ... is anyone else?

Just because the Ford service manual doesn't show to measure it doesn't mean if it's out of their publish specs that it's OK. Not here to have an argument about it, so please help out or get out.

Spec is given , where is it stated

Whoa ... where did I ever say the engine was going to have "catastrophic failure" from the BBQ tick? In all the posts I've made on this chat board or the last 4 years I have never said or even eluded to that. I love how people have wild misconceptions reading between the lines of technical info like this - you're not the first guy. Regardless if Ford or anyone else considers it normal (after it existed for 8 years starting with the Gen1 Coyote) or not, we are trying to find the root cause since Ford will never say what the cause is.

Pulled shit off the internet? That rod side clearance spec is right out of the official Ford service manual. If the rods have too much side clearance they are out of spec, simple as that. I'm trying to run down a theory ... is anyone else?

Just because the Ford service manual doesn't show to measure it doesn't mean if it's out of their publish specs that it's OK. Not here to have an argument about it, so please help out or get out.

Whoa ... where did I ever say the engine was going to have "catastrophic failure" from the BBQ tick? In all the posts I've made on this chat board or the last 4 years I have never said or even eluded to that. I love how people have wild misconceptions reading between the lines of technical info like this - you're not the first guy. Regardless if Ford or anyone else considers it normal (after it existed for 8 years starting with the Gen1 Coyote) or not, we are trying to find the root cause since Ford will never say what the cause is.

Pulled shit off the internet? That rod side clearance spec is right out of the official Ford service manual. If the rods have too much side clearance they are out of spec, simple as that. I'm trying to run down a theory ... is anyone else?

Just because the Ford service manual doesn't show how to measure it doesn't mean if it's out of their publish specs that it's OK. Not here to have an argument about it, so please help out or get out.

 

[GT Pony]

Spec is given , where is it stated

It's in the Ford Service Manual. Like I said, search the whole document for "connecting rod". That table I showed above of the rod side clearance specs is a screen snip of the Service Manual specs. It's not "shit pulled off the internet".

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