A whole bunch on p-codes lol

[SheepDog]

So Ford was completely useless. You got a bunch of codes. No shit. There was 200 bucks down the drain. Then they want to keep it for god knows how long. Yeah no.

So I went and got the battery tested 12.6 resting volts. 720CCA (rated for 600CAA).

Tested the voltage PIDS at all 4 cam sensors > 2.5v one side of the connector / 5.5v other side of the connector at all four connectors.

Would a failed UP STREAM 02 cause all these codes ?

I noticed that the A/F is pinned at 14.0, doesn't move. Thanks.

edit.. I'll literally give a hundo to whoever helps me figure this out.

Stock manifolds or long tubes? I'd be looking for a chafed wire, or loose/poor ground

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[SheepDog]

Wiring diagrams

 

[WildHorse]

Stock manifolds or long tubes? I'd be looking for a chafed wire, or loose/poor ground

Stock

Wiring diagrams

So you want me to check every green wire to the sensors ?
Or which wire specifically ? Talk to me like I'm a dummy.

 

[fmc_smt]

Pick one sensor or output control, like the purge valve , easy to get too.

 

[WildHorse]

Pick one sensor or output control, like the purge valve , easy to get too.

Couldn't I just use a voltmeter ? Hook it up, start the car, if there is a draw, it'd show, no ?

EDIT: engine bay fuse 40 (vehicle power 2) definitely overheated on one side (looked burnt), didn't pop. same with fuse 38 (vehicle power 1), but to a lesser extend

 

[SheepDog]

Couldn't I just use a voltmeter ? Hook it up, start the car, if there is a draw, it'd show, no ?

EDIT: engine bay fuse 40 (vehicle power 2) definitely overheated on one side (looked burnt), didn't pop. same with fuse 38 (vehicle power 1), but to a lesser extend

If you are getting a blown/melted fuse, you have a resistance problem. EIther in one of the connectors for an O2 sensor, the cam positions sensors, Purge valve, IMRC, or the component itself. Unplug each connector and ensure that they do not have corrosion in them, water, dirt etc. or a pin that is bent or pushed out. If you dont find anything there, start looking for wires that are shorting to ground, been chewed by vermin. Inspect the main harness grounds for corosion or loose connections.

It is possible for one of the items on that circuit to be shorting internally as well, but start with the obvious checks first.

The least likely scenario is that the PCM shit the bed

 

[WildHorse]

The least likely scenario is that the PCM shit the bed

Thanks. Doubt its the PCM as it starts and drives just fine. Burns more rich though. Especially at idle. I ordered both upstream o2 sensors.

 

[WildHorse]

Ok. I got 5.5v going everywhere. Next step ?
My upstream o2's should be there tomorrow.

 

[SheepDog]

Ok. I got 5.5v going everywhere. Next step ?
My upstream o2's should be there tomorrow.

I'd still be looking for a bad/poor ground, or a connector that has water in it, or a bent or pushed out pin that is making poor contact. The 5v reference isn't what is burning and melting your fuses, and since you said that fuse 38 and 40 look unhappy, I'd be looking for a common ground that is bad.

Since you already had this problem almost a year ago, what work or mods did you do to the car at that time?

 

[WildHorse]

Since you already had this problem almost a year ago, what work or mods did you do to the car at that time?

Nothing. Last year happened well after all my mods were done. Which was a year prior to that.

I'll check all the grounds.

 

[WildHorse]

Cleaned all the grounds. Got my O2's today. Put me in and see what happens ?

 

[WildHorse]

Haven't put them in. The pass side ain't happening without dropping the starter and/or exhaust. I did noticed the long terms are adjusting however.

 

[WildHorse]

So to recap. I have 5.5v everywhere. EVAP/CAM POS SENSORS/O2 SENSORS.
BATTERY is good. ALTENATOR is good. So, do the o2's ?

 

[SheepDog]

Nothing. Last year happened well after all my mods were done. Which was a year prior to that.

I'll check all the grounds.

It's pretty unlikely that both O2's crapped out at the same time. What do your fuel trims look like

So to recap. I have 5.5v everywhere. EVAP/CAM POS SENSORS/O2 SENSORS.
BATTERY is good. ALTENATOR is good. So, do the o2's ?

after cleaning and tightening the engine grounds, did you disconnect the connectors for all of those items and verify that there is no corrosion, water, bent pins or signs of resistance? It is possible that one of the O2s has shorted internally. Do the codes come back immediately after you clear them?

 

[WildHorse]

It's pretty unlikely that both O2's crapped out at the same time. What do your fuel trims look like

Dunno. STFT are pinned at 14.0

after cleaning and tightening the engine grounds, did you disconnect the connectors for all of those items and verify that there is no corrosion, water, bent pins or signs of resistance?

All the cam sensors, EVAP, O2 etc, are good. checking resistance from each connection to the #40 engine bay fuse yields zero resistance.

Do the codes come back immediately after you clear them?

Immediately.

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