bolt stripped.

[ice445]

I wonder if this is more prone to happen when you're only installing a strut bar and not the firewall brace too. The angle of the dangle is different when you don't have the complete set.

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[RAVAGE88]

Ah, Dude, that sucks. I noted while installing my new struts and camber plates how soft those studs feel while torquing the nuts down. The torque spec I used was 35 ft lbs, but due to the feel while getting close, I stopped short of that spec.

There is a way to replace the stud with the exact type that stripped and spot weld the new stud in place, but it's moderately involved. Knocking the stripped ones out isn't all that difficult. Just depends on how involved you want to get.

MB

 

[Bullittproof]

Buy some coupling nuts from McMaster so you can grab the threads that aren’t stripped.

agreed, it is stripped the ‘size’ of the nut, you have good threads above the stripped area that can be utilized…or an oversized nut ‘slipped over’ the stripped portion (or a stack of flat washers) and then a nyloc nut to do the work.
good luck!

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Ah, Dude, that sucks. I noted while installing my new struts and camber plates how soft those studs feel while torquing the nuts down. The torque spec I used was 35 ft lbs, but due to the feel while getting close, I stopped short of that spec.

There is a way to replace the stud with the exact type that stripped and spot weld the new stud in place, but it's moderately involved. Knocking the stripped ones out isn't all that difficult. Just depends on how involved you want to get.

MB

Yeah. I didn't fully get to 35 ftlbs with my torque wrench either. Clearly the spec for these nuts/studs are so close to the limit of what they can withstand, and people's cheapo wrenches are probably off by 10% that you shouldn't trust them for stuff like this.

 

[RAVAGE88]

Yeah. I didn't fully get to 35 ftlbs with my torque wrench either. Clearly the spec for these nuts/studs are so close to the limit of what they can withstand, and people's cheapo wrenches are probably off by 10% that you shouldn't trust them for stuff like this.

Yep, pretty crazy how the most accessible fasteners on the entire car and possibly the most fiddled with by the owners to change parts, add parts, etc., are the softest and lowest quality of any other fastener on the car.

I'll be adding a strut tower brace soon and will not be using a torque wrench on the nuts, but instead, a box end wrench that I'll use to feel where the stopping point is. It's also my opinion that those nuts are of such low quality that I consider them to be single-use. I didn't replace them the first time, but I'll be replacing them when I install the strut tower brace.

MB

 

[GTP]

I think a little detail is the challenge presented if installing camber plates, because they might interfere with a replacement screw had that protrudes too far.

I had my struts out recently and took the opportunity to measure the head height of the stud from underneath the tower dome. It is only 0.10" high. Any standard pan head screw has a head height that is double that.

So for no camber plates, it should not be an issue. For camber plates, you might need to use a M10-1.5 flathead screw, and then drill out the stud from above, followed by countersinking the remaining OEM stud head from below. I'm sure that would be a hassle.
Otherwise I suppose you could grind down the height of a pan head screw. Then you could simply knock out the OEM stud from above.

 

[Braco]

How bad are the threads messed up? Do they just need to be cleaned up a bit? If so, try a metric thread chaser kit that comes with various size nuts. You simply lubricate the stud and run the nut down onto it, remove the nut and you’re done.

This is the kit I have and I‘ve used it a lot. Just make sure before you order a kit that it has the size nuts you need.

https://www.amazon.com/easchwork-Me...e45805232229cc75e049e680298&gad_source=1&th=1

thanks!!!

 

[NGOT8R]

Go less on the torque (maybe 20 ft-lbs) and use blue loctite to make sure the nuts stay put.

 

[Braco]

Go less on the torque (maybe 20 ft-lbs) and use blue loctite to make sure the nuts stay put.

ok, perfect. thanks!

 

[ORRadtech]

Go less on the torque (maybe 20 ft-lbs) and use blue loctite to make sure the nuts stay put.

Or the newer orange loctite. Holding strength of red but releasability of blue.

 

[Braco]

Or the newer orange loctite. Holding strength of red but releasability of blue.

Ok important information, I didn't know orange existed, thanks!

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