Glitter in oil

[DFERA]

Nah, it was a private party sale. I did buy an extended warranty thru my credit union. I’m sure that will be a nightmare to pursue.

Any chance this is a dealer that had a 30 day warranty, return policy or some other sort of guarantee?

With that kind of situation, I'd want to plop it right back on their lot.

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[honeybadger]

What’s up, is it normal for these voodoo engines to have some glitter in oil?
Was doing some maintenance while I am waiting on the title for this new to me 2016 GT350 with 59k mi.
I’m freaking out because this looks like metal to me. Cut the filter open and I don’t see any flakes in the paper filter element anywhere or the top of the can. There was some glitter in the oil in the filter but maybe that was from the cut off wheel I used to cut the filter open? Idk I didn’t have anything else to cut it open.
Let me know your thoughts.
probably doesn’t matter that the car passed a pre-purchase inspection where I also wanted a leak down test but upon the initial compression test there was zero percent lost across all cylinders so the tech at ford said a leak down would be pointless.
but if glitter is bearing material I guess that doesn’t matter huh.
Thanks in advance.

anything else I can check?

you Need to pull apart the entire filter element and inspect each part

imho. That looks like aluminum. I’ll bet it’s a cam issue journal issue assuming it’s what it looks like to me

 

[tdstuart]

Here are some videos

The last video sounds like faint knocking. For me when I spun my bearing I had to let the car warm up completely and wait a few minutes before I would hear it knocking and making weird sounds.

 

[tdstuart]

I am placing my bets on the bearing spun.
I spun my bearing on my 15 gt, oil was pretty glittery like yours.

If it was a rod bearing you could probably drop the oil pan and look at the rods and see if you can see a discolored one. You might be able to see if it's a main bearing if the caps are discolored.

 

[DFERA]

you Need to pull apart the entire filter element and inspect each part

imho. That looks like aluminum. I’ll bet it’s a cam issue journal issue assuming it’s what it looks like to me

I still have it, I can do that but I already did that. Nothing in any of the pleats.

 

[tdstuart]

imho. That looks like aluminum. I’ll bet it’s a cam issue journal issue assuming it’s what it looks like to me

It wouldn't be difficult to check.

 

[DFERA]

imho. That looks like aluminum. I’ll bet it’s a cam issue journal issue assuming it’s what it looks like to me

So next steps?? Pull the valve covers?

 

[tdstuart]

Also I hate to tell you this but with that much metal it's likely a lot made it to other bearings, and probably the worst, your cam journals.

The cam journals are machined into the head and the cam cap. There is no bearings and you can't just swap caps either as they are specifically machined to match your head.

All the bearings will need to be replaced. I would have the block, heads, and cams cleaned. If there is damage to the cam journals/caps you would be best off replacing the heads. New tensioners and new vct phasers.

I sanded my caps and head surface for the cam journals to clean up some of the damage from when my bearing spun. Something is wrong with the current build and I will likely have to dive back into the engine so hopefully I can get an update if the sanding worked.

 

[tdstuart]

So next steps?? Pull the valve covers?

That's what I would do. Its not a very hard process. Pull the valve covers and see if you can see any visible discoloration to the cam caps. If you only take off one at a time you should be fine and can check the caps for any damage.

Note that if the first few caps (starting at the front of the engine) are scored its probably from metal getting into them.

If you have any chance of warranty I would purse that first. I wouldn't want you digging into the engine cause a warranty denial. I think ford dealerships will handle 3rd part warranty.

 

[Canuckican]

Damn man, I think I have seen a similar movie before.

I hope it turns out okay for you. I'm pulling for you.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

Video’s can be decieving. Does the car sound wrong in person? A cutoff wheel will leave all kinds of specs like that, especially if its high speed, depending on the wheel makeup, and the actual housimg itself. My guys use to use grinders to cut off toilet bolts that were long. Those little specs would basically sand blast the porcelain. If the car sounds right before I started freaking out I’d change the oil with something cheap with a new filter. Let it run for a bit, then pull the filter, drain it and see what you have. The last thing I’d be doing is freaking out because I cut the filter open with a high speed grinder. Use tin snips next time. You’re introducing a foreign material in to the filter the way you did it.

 

[DFERA]

how long before I should replace the filter again. I don’t really want to drive it is idling enough and if so how long?

 

[Inthehighdesert]

You didn’t say if it actually sounds right or not. Idling it for 10-15 minutes will give it enough time to circulate and let you see what you need to. This is all predicated on the motor sounding ok. Filters are cheap I’d do it a few times.

how long before I should replace the filter again. I don’t really want to drive it is idling enough and if so how long?

 

[Johnny Rockit]

how long before I should replace the filter again. I don’t really want to drive it is idling enough and if so how long?

Get a cheap pipe cutter at harbor freight for cutting open the filter. As far as when to change and check again it won't be long before you know the engine is damaged. The new oil will wash down whatever is under the valve covers and elsewhere. Just guessing based on exp from many moons ago. Like decades worth.

 

[JAJ]

Video’s can be decieving. Does the car sound wrong in person? A cutoff wheel will leave all kinds of specs like that, especially if its high speed, depending on the wheel makeup, and the actual housimg itself. My guys use to use grinders to cut off toilet bolts that were long. Those little specs would basically sand blast the porcelain. If the car sounds right before I started freaking out I’d change the oil with something cheap with a new filter. Let it run for a bit, then pull the filter, drain it and see what you have. The last thing I’d be doing is freaking out because I cut the filter open with a high speed grinder. Use tin snips next time. You’re introducing a foreign material in to the filter the way you did it.

I second this approach. There's something strange about this and the "clean" oil filter indicates that whatever the crud is, it wasn't circulating in the engine before you drained it. That doesn't mean there isn't a problem, but troubleshoot it methodically so you don't cause a new problem when you're looking for whatever this is.

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