SPL adjustable LCA and tension rod install

[WItoTX]

This thread makes me wish I studied harder in geometry ...I am appreciative of posting OP, these are all things I'm usually doing in my head, then mad googling, then trying something else. Usually on day 3 of a 2 hour project I get it figured out, hopefully you are on the cusp yourself!

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[matthewr87]

So I got into the car today to move it out of the garage to try and fix my toe issue. And the LCA mounting stud snapped AGAIN.....

 

[Biggsy]

Okay. Now that’s concerning

 

[matthewr87]

Can anyone tell me what the OEM part numbers are for the driver's side control arms?

I have found these:

FR3Z-3079-C
FR3Z-3079-H

But they don't match with the part number stickers on my original arms:
FR3V-3079-CD
FR3V-3A424-BB

 

[Biggsy]

Can anyone tell me what the OEM part numbers are for the driver's side control arms?

I have found these:

FR3Z-3079-C
FR3Z-3079-H

But they don't match with the part number stickers on my original arms:
FR3V-3079-CD
FR3V-3A424-BB

Going back to OEM?

 

[matthewr87]

Going back to OEM?

Yep. I have zero faith in this set up. Last time it happened while torquing my calipers. This time it happened when I got in the car after sitting for a few days (and after I drove it in a loop around the neighbourhood a few times immediately after install). Next time it might happen when I'm driving on the street. So thanks but no thanks.

 

[Biggsy]

Yep. I have zero faith in this set up. Last time it happened while torquing my calipers. This time it happened when I got in the car after sitting for a few days (and after I drove it in a loop around the neighbourhood a few times immediately after install). Next time it might happen when I'm driving on the street. So thanks but no thanks.

Very sorry to hear that but again I’m glad you caught it before hand.

If you are going the OEM route then I would just hit up Cortex for the front arm. They can press it in for you and at least you’ll have improved steering over stock. Or just buy OEM arm and buy the bearing separately and press it in yourself(or a shop)

 

[WItoTX]

I think SPL should hire you since clearly you can repeat the failure.

Sorry to hear this. I hope they make it right.

 

[JAJ]

Can anyone tell me what the OEM part numbers are for the driver's side control arms?

I have found these:

FR3Z-3079-C
FR3Z-3079-H

But they don't match with the part number stickers on my original arms:
FR3V-3079-CD
FR3V-3A424-BB

The factory parts have an "Engineering Part Number" on them. The dealer parts department parts are sourced through a different supply chain and come with different part numbers that look similar but that aren't the same even when the parts are exactly the same.

 

[matthewr87]

The factory parts have an "Engineering Part Number" on them. The dealer parts department parts are sourced through a different supply chain and come with different part numbers that look similar but that aren't the same even when the parts are exactly the same.

Okay thanks. I called Ford and they told me the parts were actually:

FR3Z-3079-E (not C, even though the C variant is listed as being for the GT350 and other mustang models online, while the E model is just listed for GT350s)

FR3Z-3079-H

 

[matthewr87]

I think SPL should hire you since clearly you can repeat the failure.

Sorry to hear this. I hope they make it right.

Yeah this time it really makes no sense even if the stud was defective from the supplier. I literally drove the car after install (long enough to determine my alignment was completely screwed up) and nothing broke. The car sat for 3 days and then the stud just sheared when I got in and started to reverse out of the garage.

 

[WItoTX]

Yeah this time it really makes no sense even if the stud was defective from the supplier. I literally drove the car after install (long enough to determine my alignment was completely screwed up) and nothing broke. The car sat for 3 days and then the stud just sheared when I got in and started to reverse out of the garage.

Shit while the car was on the ground?! I'm glad nothing else was damaged. Could have been so much worse.

 

[matthewr87]

Shit while the car was on the ground?! I'm glad nothing else was damaged. Could have been so much worse.

Yup I started reversing and after going about 6 inches I felt and heard a scraping noise. I got out and the passenger side wheel was turned inwards and up against the wheel well at the front. Luckily it straightened out when I pulled forward and I was able to get it back into position in the garage. I don't THINK anything was damaged. And now that is where she sits. Im going to have to jack up that side of the car and replace that stud and reattach the LCA just so I can reposition the car and get it back onto my quick jack before I can go back to OEM. Good thing it happened on the passenger side otherwise I'd be totally screwed since the driver side is up against the garage wall.

 

[honeybadger]

Are you torquing the nut and not the bolt? I can't figure out how you're snapping those so consistently.

They're an incredibly beefy part

 

[matthewr87]

Are you torquing the nut and not the bolt? I can't figure out how you're snapping those so consistently.

They're an incredibly beefy part

Yep it is a mystery. Made all the more so because the stud doesn't snap immediately while torquing. The first time it happened while I was putting load on the knuckle by tightening my caliper nuts. The second time it happened when I sat in the car and tried to back up, but this was AFTER the car had sat for 3 days and AFTER I drove around the neighborhood and AFTER placed load on the assembly by lowering it from my quickjack.

Turner says that 6 people have had this failure so far. I am just the lucky one with two I guess.

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