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Question On Steeda Diff Bushing Inserts

NGOT8R

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You need to lower the cradle more than 1/2”. I lowered mine several inches and it made access very easy.

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NGOT8R

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Well duh .. several inches ..

I do not feel comfortable doing so without a proper transmission jack. I would be happy to borrow one but I prefer not to own one.
I just used two floor jacks and a scissor jack to control the pumpkin. I saw no need for a special transmission jack.
 

NGOT8R

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If you drop it that far, you might as well consider their differential bracket too.
 

NGOT8R

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I meant to remind you not to forget to unclip the differential vent line from thr cradle before you lower it. Just lower it slowly u til you can fit your hand in there to unclip it.
 
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GTP

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I just used two floor jacks and a scissor jack to control the pumpkin. I saw no need for a special transmission jack.
TLDR: If the mod can't be completed as instructed, then the instructions are lacking.


Thanks @NGOT8R for the suggestions. I needed them Tuesday. The experienced Steeda tech did not say the subframe had to be dropped that far.

I would be glad to also borrow a second jack - and I have needed one occasionally - but I don't want to own one either. The perimeter floor space around our 2-car tract home garage is just too tight.

--

I guess my point is that it is disappointing and frustrating to fail after I try so hard to research all the trouble spots before going into a mod like this. This mod appears simple on the surface, but is not so much in practice. If the mod can't be completed as instructed, then the instructions are lacking.

I even read the instructions for diff bushing pucks from Steeda, BMR, and Whiteline, and they all spelled out pretty much the same procedure. I searched and read several 6g threads and knew in advance that the fronts would be harder, but none (until NGOT8R) indicated that the subframe had to be dropped significantly.

To make this post even longer...
I held onto Steeda RLCA bearings for about 4 years before installing them. I got them for my 2016 Mustang, but after researching how challenging that mod was, I decided to wait. I've had my 2019 car for 2+ years, and I like it enough that I finally installed these a week ago. Again I did as much research as possible, and still there were some tips not found that I could have used.

And yet another Steeda example is their front lateral links with big installed spherical bearings. Seems simple enough, right? Paraphrased instructions were remove old arms, install new arms, torque, etc. No info on the technique to break the ball joint loose. They want an email for tech support (while your car is up in the air and dominating the garage). I get it - they are busy and can't support every last silly call all day long. I tried 3 different methods for breaking that joint (and the Steeda suggestion was totally inadequate), and I finally just took the BFH directly to the arm at the joint and popped it out. *I* was the one to contribute the brute force suggestion to a 6g thread about it.
 

NGOT8R

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@GTP, I’m confident that your next report will be one of success regarding the bushing install. Also, good choice on the RLCA bearings. I love mine too.
 

NGOT8R

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As far as borrowing a floor jack, you might try calling one of your local auto parts stores such as Advanced Auto Parts, O’Reilly, Autozone or Pep Boys to see if they offer floor jacks as part of their tool loaner program. That way you can use them and drop them right back off when you’re done.
 

GTP

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@GTP, I’m confident that your next report will be one of success regarding the bushing install. Also, good choice on the RLCA bearings. I love mine too.
Nah, I'm over it. I had the set of leftover red pucks given to me. So I decided to order the HW kit only. I actually hoped for some gear whine, #BecauseRaceCar, and I can't hear a thing different. I look at it now as preventative measure against early diff bushing failure, and I've heard that the fronts are not stressed as much, nor with the A10, nor with road course vs drag strip.

I've been thinking about starting a build thread. Not so much "Look how modded is my car!", but "The purpose of my life is to serve as a warning to others" sort of thing. You know, useful tips and techniques that may not be found elsewhere on the forum. :thumbsup:
 

GTP

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As far as borrowing a floor jack, you might try calling one of your local auto parts stores such as Advanced Auto Parts, O’Reilly, Autozone or Pep Boys to see if they offer floor jacks as part of their tool loaner program. That way you can use them and drop them right back off when you’re done.
Right, you should see the stack of Autozone receipts playing this game. In fact, I make sure that I return exactly what I "purchase" so that the receipts totals match and simplifiy the reconciling!
 

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NGOT8R

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I've been thinking about starting a build thread. Not so much "Look how modded is my car!", but "The purpose of my life is to serve as a warning to others" sort of thing. You know, useful tips and techniques that may not be found elsewhere on the forum. :thumbsup:
I think that’s an excellent idea! I’m sure many of us could benefit from your modding experiences. There’s that old saying, “knowledge is power”.
 

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Anyone that chooses to say that differential bushings will not add any NVH is flat out not telling the truth. Granted some cars might experience more NVH than others but to say none at all is just not true.
 

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I have some NVH, but it’s very low on the scale (maybe a 2 or 3 on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being bad), even considering that I have the RLCA spherical bearings, vertical links with delrin and the hardcore differential bracket. I am also running polyurethane motor mounts and black diff. bushings. Maybe all of my parts complemented each other, but I promise my ride comfort is in no way annoying. Can drive for hours and the only NVH is between 40-45 and 70-75 mph. Once I drive through those speeds the slight vibration goes away.
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