Autopart101
Well-Known Member
After 5 weeks waiting for my blower it arrived today. CNC by Jokerz. I have a Solar 103mm TB and 2.5 pulley to go with it. Will report back on WHP and Max boost level.
Stay with an interchiller - itās the only proven solution. The very best any heat source changer can get is ambient temperature and most fall far short of that. An interchiller can get AIT2 temperatures well below ambient.Was there ever any review on that PWR coolant brick upgrade for the 18+ roush set up? It looks like it wasn't popular just like the max cooling kit for a daily driver?
Does the Roush work out of the box with the Ecoboost boost gauge enabled? Can that be enabled via forscan while on the Roush tune or need to be added via stock before applying the tune?
You mean the ecoboost gauge? It's not available on my digital dash, it has to be unlocked via forscanStay with an interchiller - itās the only proven solution. The very best any heat source changer can get is ambient temperature and most fall far short of that. An interchiller can get AIT2 temperatures well below ambient.
the Evoboost gauge set is plug and play - no coding required.
Was there ever any review on that PWR coolant brick upgrade for the 18+ roush set up? It looks like it wasn't popular just like the max cooling kit for a daily driver?
Does the Roush work out of the box with the Ecoboost boost gauge enabled? Can that be enabled via forscan while on the Roush tune or need to be added via stock before applying the tune?
If your car is a performance pack and has the 2 center gauges you can put an ecoboost set inYou mean the ecoboost gauge? It's not available on my digital dash, it has to be unlocked via forscan
I just have gt/cs with no center dash gauges so would have to try adding the digital Ecoboost boost gauge to my display via forscan. Or connect and add a mechanical gauge to a vent. So reason I asked was if that method can be done while still on Roush tune or need to be done on stock tune first? And does it read accurately vs the pp center panel boost gauge?If your car is a performance pack and has the 2 center gauges you can put an ecoboost set in
I would look at interchillers for Heat Soak. I don't think the bricks made a big difference.Was there ever any review on that PWR coolant brick upgrade for the 18+ roush set up? It looks like it wasn't popular just like the max cooling kit for a daily driver?
Does the Roush work out of the box with the Ecoboost boost gauge enabled? Can that be enabled via forscan while on the Roush tune or need to be added via stock before applying the tune?
You can swap out the dash trim for a performance pack dash trim with the provision for the two ecoboost gauges and then install the gauges. Iām fairly certain that the connector for the gauges will be there despite you not having the gauge option so it would be a plug and play. The dash trim swap is very easy and fast / probably about 30 minutes for a novice. I would consider swapping in a real carbon fiber replacement since it makes a HUGE difference in appearance.I just have gt/cs with no center dash gauges so would have to try adding the digital Ecoboost boost gauge to my display via forscan. Or connect and add a mechanical gauge to a vent. So reason I asked was if that method can be done while still on Roush tune or need to be done on stock tune first? And does it read accurately vs the pp center panel boost gauge?
Actually I would retain my gt/cs trim, it has its own unique pattern anyway. That was why I was asking if the digital Ecoboost display can read off a Roush if I got it enabled. And at least I can see the gauge easily right in front via view my gauge section.You can swap out the dash trim for a performance pack dash trim with the provision for the two ecoboost gauges and then install the gauges. Iām fairly certain that the connector for the gauges will be there despite you not having the gauge option so it would be a plug and play. The dash trim swap is very easy and fast / probably about 30 minutes for a novice. I would consider swapping in a real carbon fiber replacement since it makes a HUGE difference in appearance.
Would the 5W-50 requirement for Roush be overkill for someone who won't be doing pulls, track, drag racing, and just drive normal within the speed limit?
I found several examples that 5W-20/30, low viscosity oils flow easier to protect engine parts at cold temperature. While 5W-50, high viscosity oils are typically better at maintaining film strength to protect engines at high temperatures.What is the reason for wanting to change to a different spec oil?
I found several examples that 5W-20/30, low viscosity oils flow easier to protect engine parts at cold temperature. While 5W-50, high viscosity oils are typically better at maintaining film strength to protect engines at high temperatures.
So I was not sure it will affect engine life if I am not getting the engine up to temp enough such as doing daily commutes of just 3 miles etc often late at night.
I work and live near West LA. I always make sure I get coolant temp up and I drive a mix of 25 - 45 mph roads, I get rpm rarely above 2-3. Yes I do long drives at times to Arizona and Nevada at highway speeds etc. No issues with car since 2018, I also change oil 6 months even I put low miles.Ok, I got you. Just know that even Ford moved away from 5w20 in the 5.0. Your signature shows California, so would that put you in a high temp area? I ask because I know it depends on where you are in CA. I will say that not getting your engine up to temps is most likely much worst on your engine regardless of oil. How about some weekend road driving or taking the long way home during that daily commute.