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Opti-coat vs Cquartz vs Modesta

GT Pony

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I looked at what shops were charging around here, and decided to try Detailer's Pro paint coating -- I'm happy with my choice.
Can you use sealants like Detailer's Pro over an already waxed car, or does the wax need to be stripped off first?
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mikeyjobu

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Can you use sealants like Detailer's Pro over an already waxed car, or does the wax need to be stripped off first?
The DP is a coating like the other products being discussed, and must be applied directly to bare paint. I plan to use Chemical Guys Blitz sealant over it, and DP Max Wax to top it off. Blitz is a versatile product that doesn't care whether it goes beneath wax, or above, and can be used over a glaze as well. I drove past my Mustang this morning, and most of the condensation had rolled off of the coating. Pretty neat stuff. I expect that whatever hydrophobic properties are on the top-most products are what you'll most observe until they wear off.
 

86merc

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I have had a few paint corrections and Cquarts applied on different vehicles. The stuff makes cleaning easy with just a simple wash.

I doubt any of the coatings are going to last 10 years with out any upkeep. I am sure they are good products but what if they don't stay for 10 years? Is there a warranty? How do you prove it isn't coating in 5-10 years?

Opti is good but the biggest draw back I have read about is the fact you have to do a whole panel to correct an issue. Let's say a bird poops on the hood. You can't fix that area. The hood needs to be cleaned down, polished and opti applied to the whole car. With CQuartz you can fix just the spot and reapply. There is also a refresh you can use on the CQuartz once a year or so. No matter what over time all the coatings will show fine scratches over time. This fills them and helps with the coating's clarity.

I have been 100% happy with the CQuartz coating. My 95 Lightning is my daily driver and winter vehicle. It looks as good today as it did over two years ago. Great product for sure.

A helpful tip for people who are going to coat their cars themselves with CQuartz. My buddy that is a detailer said they did change the formula this year. It dries a lot quicker than it did in the past. Which is fine as long as you keep that in mind. If you wait too long you can actually have a hazy look to that area.



The Lighting paint was in rough shape. Lots of swirl marks, oxidation and scratches. We decided not to wet sand it. I was thrilled with how well it came out with just polishing and the coating. Quick examples. He did my 2015 GT as well. It wasn't that bad or have than many contaminents in the paint. But when done the refection was much clearer and looks deeper. So easy to keep clean as well. Anyways...





 

mikeyjobu

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^^the complexity of doing some of the coatings is part of why I went with Detailer's Pro -- but it also flashes quickly, and has to be spread pretty fast. It was my first time doing all this, so I tried to go the simplest route possible -- I'm pretty happy with the products I've used: Porter Cable 7424, Chemical Guy's 778 Paint Correction with a white pad, and Detailer's Pro Paint Coating. I can't wait to see what it looks like with Blitz and Max Wax on top of it all...
 

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mikeyjobu

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Blk2015GT

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I have had a few paint corrections and Cquarts applied on different vehicles. The stuff makes cleaning easy with just a simple wash.

I doubt any of the coatings are going to last 10 years with out any upkeep. I am sure they are good products but what if they don't stay for 10 years? Is there a warranty? How do you prove it isn't coating in 5-10 years?

Opti is good but the biggest draw back I have read about is the fact you have to do a whole panel to correct an issue. Let's say a bird poops on the hood. You can't fix that area. The hood needs to be cleaned down, polished and opti applied to the whole car. With CQuartz you can fix just the spot and reapply. There is also a refresh you can use on the CQuartz once a year or so. No matter what over time all the coatings will show fine scratches over time. This fills them and helps with the coating's clarity.

I have been 100% happy with the CQuartz coating. My 95 Lightning is my daily driver and winter vehicle. It looks as good today as it did over two years ago. Great product for sure.

A helpful tip for people who are going to coat their cars themselves with CQuartz. My buddy that is a detailer said they did change the formula this year. It dries a lot quicker than it did in the past. Which is fine as long as you keep that in mind. If you wait too long you can actually have a hazy look to that area.



The Lighting paint was in rough shape. Lots of swirl marks, oxidation and scratches. We decided not to wet sand it. I was thrilled with how well it came out with just polishing and the coating. Quick examples. He did my 2015 GT as well. It wasn't that bad or have than many contaminents in the paint. But when done the refection was much clearer and looks deeper. So easy to keep clean as well. Anyways...
I've always been skeptical of these coatings and the lavish claims of 10 years and water beading; and even more so people paying insane prices like $1,000-1,500. You could get Xpel (or any PPF) on a good portion of the front of the car for the price which does a heck of a lot more protection.

The most laughable "evidence" truly ignorant people post on the internet is water beading on their cars and posting how shiny it looks. Anyone who knows even 1% about detailing know any sealant or wax will bead water and a good polish will make the paint shiny and pop. 99% of the look is in the prep work, not the wax or coating. And then want to argue how $1,000-1,500 was worth it. Great if you have money to truly toss out the window by all means; I think it's a ripoff for something you could do in your driveway in a few hours on a weekend with very minimal skill.

I've always challenged these people to show me tangible evidence of what the coating is doing, and no one ever has met the challenge outside of the advertisement videos on Youtube making lavish claims about it wont scratch, etc etc. And then show me tangible evidence after a few years that coating is even still on the car; not parrot what the claims made are. Again, never any answers of course.

If you can do it yourself, which isn't all that hard learning basic detailing, the "over-the-counter" coatings I'm sure work just as well for 1/10th of the cost. $100 for the coating materials isn't a huge risk and some time. And heck you could re-do it every few years and still come out ahead in price even keeping the car for 5, even 10, years.
 

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I just ran mine through a touch less wash and holy shit it's so gorgeous. The color is so deep and the shine, looks like it's covered in glass in the moonlight.

I'm happy with the price I paid, the guys that did it put a lot of care into it and only charged me $650.


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86merc

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I've always been skeptical of these coatings and the lavish claims of 10 years and water beading; and even more so people paying insane prices like $1,000-1,500. You could get Xpel (or any PPF) on a good portion of the front of the car for the price which does a heck of a lot more protection.

The most laughable "evidence" truly ignorant people post on the internet is water beading on their cars and posting how shiny it looks. Anyone who knows even 1% about detailing know any sealant or wax will bead water and a good polish will make the paint shiny and pop. 99% of the look is in the prep work, not the wax or coating. And then want to argue how $1,000-1,500 was worth it. Great if you have money to truly toss out the window by all means; I think it's a ripoff for something you could do in your driveway in a few hours on a weekend with very minimal skill.

I've always challenged these people to show me tangible evidence of what the coating is doing, and no one ever has met the challenge outside of the advertisement videos on Youtube making lavish claims about it wont scratch, etc etc. And then show me tangible evidence after a few years that coating is even still on the car; not parrot what the claims made are. Again, never any answers of course.

If you can do it yourself, which isn't all that hard learning basic detailing, the "over-the-counter" coatings I'm sure work just as well for 1/10th of the cost. $100 for the coating materials isn't a huge risk and some time. And heck you could re-do it every few years and still come out ahead in price even keeping the car for 5, even 10, years.
I am pretty sure my buddy measured the thickness of the paint and each application of coating. I should have him measure the coating on the lightning now that it is two years old. I have never used the refresh product on it either.
I just ran mine through a touch less wash and holy shit it's so gorgeous. The color is so deep and the shine, looks like it's covered in glass in the moonlight.

I'm happy with the price I paid, the guys that did it put a lot of care into it and only charged me $650.


Sent from my iPhone 6s Plus using Tapatalk
Yup, so easy to clean and keep clean. Simple touch less wash or two bucket hand wash is all you need. Just dry with a microfiber towel and quick detailer. With just a few minutes worth of effort and the car looks like it was just polished. This comes in handy here in Chicago. Where it is always road construction season and they love to over salt the roads in the winter.
 

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I am pretty sure my buddy measured the thickness of the paint and each application of coating. I should have him measure the coating on the lightning now that it is two years old. I have never used the refresh product on it either.

Yup, so easy to clean and keep clean. Simple touch less wash or two bucket hand wash is all you need. Just dry with a microfiber towel and quick detailer. With just a few minutes worth of effort and the car looks like it was just polished. This comes in handy here in Chicago. Where it is always road construction season and they love to over salt the roads in the winter.
If you have a pre-2 year measurement that'd be helpful. The problem is I hear these coatings are about 1-2 microns thick so I doubt a paint gauge would measure it.

Idk if any gauges can measure under 10 microns

This is why I am very skeptical of the product claims only being single digit microns thick; especially the scratch claims.
 

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Anyone put a protective film on OVER this stuff?
Also, does anyone here really advocate the way more expensive Modesta over the C Quartz?
 

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What CQuartZ version are we referring here? cquartz consumer base, CQuartZ UK ( a better consumer base) or CQuartZ Finest the only one with a 2 years warranty and needs to be installed by certified detailers?!?

As far as which one is the best, I can personally say I have used them all, Finest used to be good but now it's terrible, too many versions and it kept getting worse. Opti-Coat Pro lacks gloss and didn't like the beading either. Now, not a new comer at all but only in the States, Modesta. It's the only real glass coating in the market, BC05 being the best, now even with Paul Daulton's version, Private Label, base coat and top coat, thickest of them all. Also a primer coating gets to be used prior to any coating to go on adding more gloss and protection alone from that.

The only one that when doing the scratch resistant tests with a sharper, comes off effortless. BC04 is the one preferred for dark colored vehicles giving that candy look but it works just fine on white cars. Again, Modesta can only be applied by the elite detailers out there and the only one that really does need infrared curing lamps to cure the coating for bonding and more hardness levels.

Yes for those of you ( it all comes down to opinions) some still like the wax or sealants, but on hot days or climates like Florida, a coating has been proven to be the best option.

Again, Modesta is the only one I would even consider in putting on my car.

It's different opnions and yes it comes at a cost. But for those looking for the long term protection and easier maitanance, it's worth the investment for sure. We all know, brand new cars comes hacked from factory and then shipping plus dealership preps. So doing a proper detail in this case, polishing a vehicle to perfection and applying a long term Coating, is defenetely worth it.
 

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Anyone put a protective film on OVER this stuff?
Also, does anyone here really advocate the way more expensive Modesta over the C Quartz?
From experience, I would be very carefull, not recommended to apply a coating under the film at all, Modesta being ( Modesta ) only not sure about CQuartZ since it's not that great of coating anyways, it's super hydrophilic (Making it harder for anything to stick to the coating) it could affect the adhesion of the film sticking.

Usually the coating gets applied over the film, for even more protection and easier cleaning. It works wonders with Xpel Self Healing Films and Suntek SHF.
 

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if i wanted to keep a car nice i would never take it through a touchless wash

i would learn how to wash it with ONR and buy the right items to do it properly
 

olla

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I did opticoat and I swear I don't see any difference at all. Yes its there because it beads H2O but honestly to me it was a waste of money.
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