Magnaride rear shock removal

[Robottrainer]

I had a noise like you describe... I chased it for 6 months. Nothing was loose... even used a dead-blow hammer to try and find it.... nothing!? I finally replaced all my sway bar end-links (all for corners)... boom, noise gone. And yes i checked them during that 6 month hunt.

After replacing, I noticed the old end links where loose, there was no play or movement like you'd find in a bad ball joint or tie rod end, just loose. Either way she's super quiet now.

FWIW: I have delrin or heim joints throughout the front and rear suspension... also lowered...etc...

Worth a shot. It's a cheap easy try.

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[GTP]

I'm coming to that conclusion. I got them out when the cradle was out. No way to get them out unless you start taking things off.

The rear caliper is an easy removal. Two bolts, and maybe the eBrake hanger. Leave things connected but just move or hang the caliper out of the way.

 

[Robottrainer]

The rear caliper is an easy removal. Two bolts, and maybe the eBrake hanger. Leave things connected but just move or hang the caliper out of the way.

Just the caliper or the bracket too? I have the service manual. It tells you nothing.

 

[GTP]

Just the caliper or the bracket too? I have the service manual. It tells you nothing.

Both. The eBrake cable is stiff, so removing the bracket provides more wiggle room.

 

[moby4dick]

Any one ever have success removing the rear shocks from the lower control arms? I got them out when the cadle was out. Doing it in the car is a different story. I just can move them around enough to get them out. It's like a evil genius designed the opening.

I was able to remove them while in the process of getting the control arms out. Had the car up on Quickjacks, with the arms loosened and hanging down. I believe with the extra clearance and angle was able to get them out of the control arm.

I also struggled with how the hell they could come out of the lower slot. Needed to twist them but also needed room in and around the wheel arch. Yes, non. Magneride looks way easier!

 

[mkcotton]

Worth a shot. It's a cheap easy try.

These are the ones I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087JWJRQ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SPFBTG1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a set of Steeda end-links, but I have MagRide, and the grease fittings were catching the wires at the bottom of the front strut. Even after removing and replacing with a threaded plug, it was still too close and rubbing. The Dormans have a bit more beef to them then stock. And I figure, replacing every 3 yrs is reasonable (I run 37mm Front/25.2mm Rear bars).

 

[Robottrainer]

These are the ones I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087JWJRQ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SPFBTG1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a set of Steeda end-links, but I have MagRide, and the grease fittings were catching the wires at the bottom of the front strut. Even after removing and replacing with a threaded plug, it was still too close and rubbing. The Dormans have a bit more beef to them then stock. And I figure, replacing every 3 yrs is reasonable (I run 37mm Front/25.2mm Rear bars).

I bought the rears. For the money, I hope they clear

 

[mkcotton]

I bought the rears. For the money, I hope they clear

you'll be fine on the rear. (Steeda brand).

 

[Robottrainer]

you'll be fine on the rear. (Steeda brand).

Thanks for the heads up

 

[Cobraracer79]

I thought you were going to say that you were deleting Magneride. I deleted mine and my new shocks are noisy, but I knew they would be prior to buying them. Now if I can only get the car to hook up on them, I’ll wear the noise like a badge of honor.

I am deleting my Magnaride and ran into an issue with the rear shock lower mounts. What did you do regarding the lower mount, the Magnaride is wider than the standard shocks mounting bar?

 

[Cobraracer79]

On-vehicle Magneride rear shock removal must have been an afterthought because there wasn't enough clearance in the control arm "window" to fish out the shock. ( at least on my car.) I didn't feel like removing calipers or any other obstacles for such a basic procedure so a tiny bit of deburring/grinding on shock mounting ears resolved the clearance issue.

I just removed my left magnaride shock last night and thought the same thing, then tried again and it came out. It goes out the top.

 

[Robottrainer]

I just removed my left magnaride shock last night and thought the same thing, then tried again and it came out. It goes out the top.

Did you remove the caliper and the brake rotor?

 

[Cobraracer79]

Did you remove the caliper and the brake rotor?

No, just unbolted the shock. The rotor and brake caliper were still on it. At first I did not think it would come out.

 

[Robottrainer]

No, just unbolted the shock. The rotor and brake caliper were still on it. At first I did not think it would come out.

I haven't been able to figure it out and I spent 15 minutes trying

 

[GTP]

Please try removing the screw holding the eBrake cable to the knuckle. Then unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way. This allows you to tilt the shock outboard and twist it to get the bottom 'T' to pull out and upwards from the control arm.

I don't recall if I had to remove the rotor, but it too slips off easily at this point.

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