Extra pamphlet from owner's manual says to use Oil Catch can for track use..

[bpracer]

Back to the OP's question. I know those are FP catchers but does anyone have any more info?

The track tour cars were using two of these from what people were saying.

http://shop.bobsautosports.com/2015...or-Pass-side-2015-Mustang-GT-pass-oil-sep.htm

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[Hack]

Does anyone actually take their car in to change the alignment prior to a track day and than take it back in to change it back to the street alignment? $$$

No, people figure out how to do their own alignments to save the $$. Tracking cars regularly is not cheap.

 

[Gibbo205]

Yeah...no. I'll toe bang on 0 for all four corners regardless. Caster camber plates are definitely something I will be interested in though.

Having aligned a lot of track cars if you do the above you will be slower and most likely to spin especially under braking.

0 toe on the front or otherwise known as neutral toe is fine for both road and track. Though for road I always recommend a little toe for high speed stability. So say 6 minutes toe in across front axle for road.

The rear is very important and for a front engine RWD car you need toe in on the rear as toe in on the rear vastly improves stability under braking and will increase your lateral G.

For road I'd recommend 25 minutes toe in across rear axle and for track 15 minutes toe in on rear axle. If the toe was neutral on the rear then the car would want to rotate very easily and very quickly, making it not so confident inspiring and tricky to handle. Under hard braking 0 toe would make the rear very light and unstable and if you brake if anything but a straight line your likely to spin out.

You'd only put 0 toe on the rear for a drift or drag car.

 

[wproctor411]

Having aligned a lot of track cars if you do the above you will be slower and most likely to spin especially under braking.

0 toe on the front or otherwise known as neutral toe is fine for both road and track. Though for road I always recommend a little toe for high speed stability. So say 6 minutes toe in across front axle for road.

The rear is very important and for a front engine RWD car you need toe in on the rear as toe in on the rear vastly improves stability under braking and will increase your lateral G.

For road I'd recommend 25 minutes toe in across rear axle and for track 15 minutes toe in on rear axle. If the toe was neutral on the rear then the car would want to rotate very easily and very quickly, making it not so confident inspiring and tricky to handle. Under hard braking 0 toe would make the rear very light and unstable and if you brake if anything but a straight line your likely to spin out.

You'd only put 0 toe on the rear for a drift or drag car.

Nice write up you notice they had different settings for both cars, why? Steering and control like you mention seams to make the most sense, but not cents LOL

 

[nastang87xx]

Having aligned a lot of track cars if you do the above you will be slower and most likely to spin especially under braking.

0 toe on the front or otherwise known as neutral toe is fine for both road and track. Though for road I always recommend a little toe for high speed stability. So say 6 minutes toe in across front axle for road.

The rear is very important and for a front engine RWD car you need toe in on the rear as toe in on the rear vastly improves stability under braking and will increase your lateral G.

For road I'd recommend 25 minutes toe in across rear axle and for track 15 minutes toe in on rear axle. If the toe was neutral on the rear then the car would want to rotate very easily and very quickly, making it not so confident inspiring and tricky to handle. Under hard braking 0 toe would make the rear very light and unstable and if you brake if anything but a straight line your likely to spin out.

You'd only put 0 toe on the rear for a drift or drag car.

Interesting. Thanks. So what's your take on the race alignment specs given?

 

[Gibbo205]

Interesting. Thanks. So what's your take on the race alignment specs given?

They are kind of alignment I would set for aggressive street driving, seem a bit too tame for track driving, especially as the R uses semi slicks.

On semi slicks you always dial in more camber and on full slicks even more so.

Example my E46 M3 front camber:
Standard factory
-1.25-1.50 camber

My road setting on road tyres
-2.00-2.25 camber

My track settings on road tyres
-2.50-2.75

My track settings on semi slicks
-3.00-3.25

My track settings on slicks
-4.00


So Ford settings seem very conservative, I personally would be setting the 350 at:
Road:
Front:
-1.75 camber front
neutral toe
maximum possible caster, say 7.50 positive degrees

Rear:
-1.75 camber rear
30 minutes toe in across rear axle

Pressures:
As per door card/manual set when cold.


Track:
Front:
-2.25 to -2.50 camber front
neutral toe or very slight toe out say 3-4 minutes toe out across axle
maximum possible caster, say 7.50 positive degrees

Rear:
-2.00 to -2.25 camber rear
20 minutes toe in across rear axle

Pressures:
Aim for 36-38psi when HOT, so do a few laps, come into the pits and let some air out if need be, if you get tyres too hot they become greasy.


Track with semi slicks (aka 350R):
Front:
-2.50 to -3.00 camber front
very slight toe out, say 2-4 minutes across axle, if Ford are saying toe in for 350R it could be an adverse effect of the carbon wheels, needs more research
maximum possible caster, say 7.50 positive degrees

Rear:
-2.00 to 2.50 camber rear
20 minutes toe in across rear axle

Pressures:
Aim for 30-32psi HOT with Michelin cups.




Things to look out for, outside wear on front tyres means you need more front negative camber.
Ideally also have a sensor to measure temperature across width of tyre this will show you if you are using all the tyre evenly or need to make further geo adjustments to get it spot on.

 

[mattlqx]

Everyone always suggests maximum caster all the time. Is there ever a reason not to have it maxed? Why isn't more caster built into the suspension design? Is there such a thing as too much?

 

[nastang87xx]

My 2011 is maxed on camber as of now. -2.4.

 

[1LEThumper]

It may be for stability under braking since the wheels are so light. That's my best guess if the specs are accurate. It's just a tiny amount of total toe in, only about 1/32nd. It's extremely close to 0°.

That doesn't make any sense......it would have to be more for a bending/deflection issue. Weight shouldn't change the alignment of the car.

I haven't seen them say it uses different bushings or anything like that. possibly there is that much movement in the bushings and the tires cause it to move that much? Either way on the races cars we run 1/8" total toe out at the front and close to 3/16 to 1/4" toe in at the back of the car...and that is on slicks with spherical bearings so nothing moves outside of the normal arc of travel.

 

[1LEThumper]

Everyone always suggests maximum caster all the time. Is there ever a reason not to have it maxed? Why isn't more caster built into the suspension design? Is there such a thing as too much?

Toe typically will wear tires quicker than camber but it will still cause the tires to wear uneven if not pushed. The extra camber for a track car is typically there because the tires are being loaded harder and pushed over. If you just ran max camber but no real load on it you are giving up contact patch under normal driving conditions.

If you combine max caster and max caster you can get a lot of chopping to the tire, and hoping because you loose contact patch. Caster is just camber when the tire is turned so if you have both maxed you can give up a lot of contact patch...causing the tire to skip....but that also depends on the car and how much gain the suspension has through its travel.

In days past with manual steer cars...a lot of caster was hard to drive because it took so much effort to turn the cars.

So to answer your question...yes there can be such a thing as to much caster and camber

 

[1LEThumper]

Like Gibbo said above though, you will have to do some checking with the car on track to see what it likes.

Different tracks and different tires are going to require different settings to get the best from the car. You'll want to get a tire temp gun or probe as well as a good tire pressure gage. Most R DOT tires are going to want to see a 32-34 HOT psi reading I would assume.....slicks will be different and will generally want a lower cold starting pressure.

I could tell you what we have ran on the Vettes over the years...but like I say, give the car what it wants, not what someone else has. Since this car is so new and does use slightly different suspension than the GT probably going to take some track time to find out exactly what it likes. I would say at least start with Ford's suggestion and modify from there. I sure would change the toe settings though...but that is just me.

 

[Stuntman]

Running 0 rear toe is a BAD idea.

Keep in mind that wider tires don't need as much static camber, so the 295-305 front tires will not require as much camber as an M3 with 245-275 front tires.

I would go with what Ford suggests and if you're that experienced of a track day guy, you should already own a PROBE type pyrometer which will tell you what the optimal camber and tire pressures should be. I doubt the car will need -3* front camber.

 

[Davy_Baby9]

So they don't really want you tracking a base or tech pack car.

 

[likeaboss]

So they don't really want you tracking a base or tech pack car.

Which is disappointing considering every GT350 really should be track ready, with the Track Pack and R even more capable. Something doesn't seem right about offering two trims of a "track car" they really don't want you to track without mods. I bet Chevy will jump on this for the 1LE, Z/28 or whatever they call their next track ready car. They'll make sure it's ready to go out of the box and then trash Ford in marketing for not being track ready.

 

[Davy_Baby9]

Which is disappointing considering every GT350 really should be track ready, with the Track Pack and R even more capable. Something doesn't seem right about offering two trims of a "track car" they really don't want you to track without mods. I bet Chevy will jump on this for the 1LE, Z/28 or whatever they call their next track ready car. They'll make sure it's ready to go out of the box and then trash Ford in marketing for not being track ready.

Needing the track pack on a track car to umm track does seem kinda odd. GM already said the 16 SS is ready besides taking off the gas mileage helpers, under car shield, control arm shields, and brake rotor shields.

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