ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers

[gameovergt]

I feel like your car is having an identity crisis.

Youre putting a 4000 STALL IN YOUR CAR...but worried about tires?

I'm not meaning to sound like a dick and not trying to come across that way either, but your car will have more drivability issues than mine will. Manual Trans and Full Drag Pack vs a 4000 Stall on a sub par street tire.

If you don't drive in the rain, it doesn't matter anyways. It's not like you purposely go out and nail it in the rain anyways.

You need to do some digging on what you're doing and where you're going to wind up. IMHO, if I were you, I would go Full Drag Pack. You're just going to ignite any other tire on the street.

Not going dp for street. I don't go wot much if at all. My 2016 gt had circle d 5c, tsp lts no cats, 18 im, e85, 3.55 rear on am pp2 wheels, kumho tires. Did ok. Not sure on tires yet.

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[jmagnus87]

Not going dp for street. I don't go wot much if at all. My 2016 gt had circle d 5c, tsp lts no cats, 18 im, e85, 3.55 rear on am pp2 wheels, kumho tires. Did ok. Not sure on tires yet.

IMO Kev, and I'm just a small town moron lol stall converters are the worst thing ever made by man if it's used in literally another other than a machine that gets put in a trailer, brought to the drag track, pushed to the line then started ran, then put back on the trailer and it stays there unless it goes back in the garage for further work. But that's just my 0.02

 

[gameovergt]

IMO Kev, and I'm just a small town moron lol stall converters are the worst thing ever made by man if it's used in literally another other than a machine that gets put in a trailer, brought to the drag track, pushed to the line then started ran, then put back on the trailer and it stays there unless it goes back in the garage for further work. But that's just my 0.02

Lol. I'm smaller town moron.

 

[Dr.Patterson]

The wait is over

 

[WonderDud]

Lol. I'm smaller town moron.

So I'm confused, since your not going wot often are you just planning on cruising to me what essentially sounds like a cvt swapped mustang? LOL not hating I'm just curious... wont trans temps get pretty damn hot if you drive a lot in one session like that? Especially in Florida I could foresee some serious trans temp issues no?

 

[kevinvan6000]

I have a 4k ish Circle D converter in my car with the stock transmission thermostat / trans cooler and my temps haven't been an issue with day to day driving. It does change slow stop and go driving so I could see it not being for everyone.

 

[Proshop]

I have a 4k ish Circle D converter in my car with the stock transmission thermostat / trans cooler and my temps haven't been an issue with day to day driving. It does change slow stop and go driving so I could see it not being for everyone.

That 9.4 @147 with a G2 is so bad a$$!

 

[DougS550]

I have a 4k ish Circle D converter in my car with the stock transmission thermostat / trans cooler and my temps haven't been an issue with day to day driving. It does change slow stop and go driving so I could see it not being for everyone.

This is what Circle D recommended for my Stret Driven car with 800-900rwhp.

"At around the 800whp level, we start recommending our larger 258mm diameter core. This is an F-150 derived converter and it's most notable advantage over the Mustang unit would be lockup clutch surface area. Just swapping to the larger diameter converter would hurt performance, but we are also able to pop in our custom steel stator to get you back to baseline or OEM + type of performance. This converter should drive very well and offer superior reliability".

 

[Roush05]

I originally posted this in the Roush thread, but nobody ever answered. I'm hoping you guys can give me a little insight.

I have a 21 gt m6 with Roush installed by dealer. Stock numbers were decent at 680 rwhp/600rwtq at 10-11psi. It feels fast, but my old procharger setup was a lot more enjoyable for me. I'm growing to miss my procharger setup. It was on a 2015 with some more supporting mods, but numbers weren't that different. About 740 rwhp/550 rwtq. I really miss the sound of the procharger, the lack of heat soak, and surprisingly the better gas mileage. If I swapped, how much if a headache would it be to get it changed over? I've only ever used a procharger as far as centris go, so I don't know about Paxton, vortech, or ESS. I really just want the nice straight cut gear noise and maybe 800 whp. I have pump gas only, but I can supplement with a good bit of boostane to bring the octane up enough. I might be able to get some E85 from a local airport but i can't count on that.

Has anyone else made this switch? Was it too difficult to keep track of extra parts when swapping over? And any idea what I could sell the roush setup for? Would be nice to only be in the swap for a couple grand. (Also if anyone is looking to make a swap, let me know please). I can do the work no problem, it's more about trying to keep track of every nut and bolt that belongs to the roush kit lol.

 

[Proshop]

I originally posted this in the Roush thread, but nobody ever answered. I'm hoping you guys can give me a little insight.

I have a 21 gt m6 with Roush installed by dealer. Stock numbers were decent at 680 rwhp/600rwtq at 10-11psi. It feels fast, but my old procharger setup was a lot more enjoyable for me. I'm growing to miss my procharger setup. It was on a 2015 with some more supporting mods, but numbers weren't that different. About 740 rwhp/550 rwtq. I really miss the sound of the procharger, the lack of heat soak, and surprisingly the better gas mileage. If I swapped, how much if a headache would it be to get it changed over? I've only ever used a procharger as far as centris go, so I don't know about Paxton, vortech, or ESS. I really just want the nice straight cut gear noise and maybe 800 whp. I have pump gas only, but I can supplement with a good bit of boostane to bring the octane up enough. I might be able to get some E85 from a local airport but i can't count on that.

Has anyone else made this switch? Was it too difficult to keep track of extra parts when swapping over? And any idea what I could sell the roush setup for? Would be nice to only be in the swap for a couple grand. (Also if anyone is looking to make a swap, let me know please). I can do the work no problem, it's more about trying to keep track of every nut and bolt that belongs to the roush kit lol.

Oh man do I feel your pain… I was in the same boat as you over a year ago. Had a Roush installed by the dealer when the car was new and threw a ton of money at it trying to make it fast and fight the heat soak. Needless to say after 13 months of doing that I decided to switch to the ESS kit and I slap myself every day that I didn’t know about them before I wasted my money on the Roush. I’d have a hell of alot more money.

The unfortunate side is others know about the short comings of the 18+ Roush also and it was very hard to find someone to sell it to and I lost a ton of money on it. Sold almost 10k worth of stuff (kit and other mods) for $4500. Let alone paying my shop to pull it out and then install the ESS kit.

As stated above my shop did the work but my first question would be.. Did Ford give you back all the parts that were pulled off when the Roush was installed? My shop had no real issues with doing the switch over, since I had the parts that had been pulled off and I also have them the install manual and basically told them to backwards engineer/ follow the instructions backwards so I got every part that went with the Roush so I could sell it.

The last thing I will say is you will have a hard time hitting 800 whp with out the use of e85 and doing it safely and the motor having longevity.

 

[Roush05]

Oh man do I feel your pain… I was in the same boat as you over a year ago. Had a Roush installed by the dealer when the car was new and threw a ton of money at it trying to make it fast and fight the heat soak. Needless to say after 13 months of doing that I decided to switch to the ESS kit and I slap myself every day that I didn’t know about them before I wasted my money on the Roush. I’d have a hell of alot more money.

The unfortunate side is others know about the short comings of the 18+ Roush also and it was very hard to find someone to sell it to and I lost a ton of money on it. Sold almost 10k worth of stuff (kit and other mods) for $4500. Let alone paying my shop to pull it out and then install the ESS kit.

As stated above my shop did the work but my first question would be.. Did Ford give you back all the parts that were pulled off when the Roush was installed? My shop had no real issues with doing the switch over, since I had the parts that had been pulled off and I also have them the install manual and basically told them to backwards engineer/ follow the instructions backwards so I got every part that went with the Roush so I could sell it.

The last thing I will say is you will have a hard time hitting 800 whp with out the use of e85 and doing it safely and the motor having longevity.

Thank you for responding. I've had enough sense not to mess with the stock setup. Sure, you can drop a pulley size or two, but then you have to throw a couple thousand toward cooling, and that just isn't cost effective.

I had Beechmont Ford do mine. Flew up there to pick it up and drove it 10 ish hours home. The big things are the intake manifold and throttle body, which I'm pretty sure I have at the shop. I also have a fair amount of spare parts from my procharger install on my old car. I haven't looked at the ESS install, but if it's anything like a procharger install, there isn't a whole lot to it. I think that as long as I have the manifold and TB, most everything else will be provided with the ESS. Belt, intake, etc.

I would be doing the removal and install myself. To do both would probably take me two weekends, accounting for little unexpected things that come up and eat a lot of time.

Regarding 800 whp, it's just a number. Not sure what the max on pump gas typically is, but that's probably where I will want to be. Like I said, my old car made 740 or 760 something whp on pump gas, but that was with enough boostane to make the gas 102 octane. It really sucks that I can't get better fuel, because boostane cost added up in a hurry.

 

[wazslow]

Thank you for responding. I've had enough sense not to mess with the stock setup. Sure, you can drop a pulley size or two, but then you have to throw a couple thousand toward cooling, and that just isn't cost effective.

I had Beechmont Ford do mine. Flew up there to pick it up and drove it 10 ish hours home. The big things are the intake manifold and throttle body, which I'm pretty sure I have at the shop. I also have a fair amount of spare parts from my procharger install on my old car. I haven't looked at the ESS install, but if it's anything like a procharger install, there isn't a whole lot to it. I think that as long as I have the manifold and TB, most everything else will be provided with the ESS. Belt, intake, etc.

I would be doing the removal and install myself. To do both would probably take me two weekends, accounting for little unexpected things that come up and eat a lot of time.

Regarding 800 whp, it's just a number. Not sure what the max on pump gas typically is, but that's probably where I will want to be. Like I said, my old car made 740 or 760 something whp on pump gas, but that was with enough boostane to make the gas 102 octane. It really sucks that I can't get better fuel, because boostane cost added up in a hurry.

800rwhp and pumpgas is a recipe for a new shortblock. Keep it under 700rwhp and don't do back to back runs if you want it to live. E85 is your best bet if you want more power and longevity.

 

[Proshop]

Thank you for responding. I've had enough sense not to mess with the stock setup. Sure, you can drop a pulley size or two, but then you have to throw a couple thousand toward cooling, and that just isn't cost effective.

I had Beechmont Ford do mine. Flew up there to pick it up and drove it 10 ish hours home. The big things are the intake manifold and throttle body, which I'm pretty sure I have at the shop. I also have a fair amount of spare parts from my procharger install on my old car. I haven't looked at the ESS install, but if it's anything like a procharger install, there isn't a whole lot to it. I think that as long as I have the manifold and TB, most everything else will be provided with the ESS. Belt, intake, etc.

I would be doing the removal and install myself. To do both would probably take me two weekends, accounting for little unexpected things that come up and eat a lot of time.

Regarding 800 whp, it's just a number. Not sure what the max on pump gas typically is, but that's probably where I will want to be. Like I said, my old car made 740 or 760 something whp on pump gas, but that was with enough boostane to make the gas 102 octane. It really sucks that I can't get better fuel, because boostane cost added up in a hurry.

You will definitely be in a better boat then me since you haven’t thrown any more money at it and can do the swap yourself. I would still recommend printing out the instructions and following them backwards so you can get every last part that belongs with the Roush which I’m sure you know is a ton more things then the ESS or procharger kits. I would still guess you will only get $4-4500 for the kit at most and for the right buyer.

The other downside I just thought about is the Roush calibration for you and for whoever buys the used kit. I had to have Ford basically hack into the PCM to reflash a factory calibration so I could have my tuner then modify it to work for the ESS kit. I then had to reflash my retune of the Roush calibration so I could continue to drive the car until the ESS was installed and flashed with a calibration/ tune for the new kit. So if you are on a stock Roush calibration you one don’t have your factory calibration and haven’t saved the Roush one to flash back to when you need to leave the stealership. The person buying your used kit will then have to get with Roush for their calibration… if they will even supply them with one.

Well if you spent a ton of money on boostanr it maybe a better choice to just have barrels of e85 delivered to you and then the sky is the limit!

 

[Roush05]

You will definitely be in a better boat then me since you haven’t thrown any more money at it and can do the swap yourself. I would still recommend printing out the instructions and following them backwards so you can get every last part that belongs with the Roush which I’m sure you know is a ton more things then the ESS or procharger kits. I would still guess you will only get $4-4500 for the kit at most and for the right buyer.

The other downside I just thought about is the Roush calibration for you and for whoever buys the used kit. I had to have Ford basically hack into the PCM to reflash a factory calibration so I could have my tuner then modify it to work for the ESS kit. I then had to reflash my retune of the Roush calibration so I could continue to drive the car until the ESS was installed and flashed with a calibration/ tune for the new kit. So if you are on a stock Roush calibration you one don’t have your factory calibration and haven’t saved the Roush one to flash back to when you need to leave the stealership. The person buying your used kit will then have to get with Roush for their calibration… if they will even supply them with one.

Well if you spent a ton of money on boostanr it maybe a better choice to just have barrels of e85 delivered to you and then the sky is the limit!

@wazslow I ran 740+ with my old car for about 50k miles with no issues. I may have just been lucky.


That's about what i figured i would get for the kit. Not great, but better than nothing.

Was your tuner locked out of the PCM with the Roush tune? As far as that goes, I had just assumed both I and the buyer would be going aftermarket with tunes right off the bat.

You're right about E85. I hadn't really considered sourcing barrels of it. There is a decent backroads racing scene here, so maybe someone can hook me up.

 

[Proshop]

@wazslow I ran 740+ with my old car for about 50k miles with no issues. I may have just been lucky.


That's about what i figured i would get for the kit. Not great, but better than nothing.

Was your tuner locked out of the PCM with the Roush tune? As far as that goes, I had just assumed both I and the buyer would be going aftermarket with tunes right off the bat.

You're right about E85. I hadn't really considered sourcing barrels of it. There is a decent backroads racing scene here, so maybe someone can hook me up.

No my tuner had no issues when modifying the Roush calibration but he also said he would never take a complete factory tune and try and tune a Roush. It would be waaaaay to time consuming and not worth the money and he would not want to charge a customer what it would take to go through all the work to tune it correctly. That is why he modifies the Roush calibration instead of starting with a new factory calibration. The master Ford tech had issues trying to get into the pcm due to my tuner and Roush locking it, yes he even said he had issues reflashing just a stock Roush calibration back before let alone a tuners modification. Something that should have been a 20-30 min job at most ended up at almost 3 plus hours. I got lucky and he liked me and they only charged me 1 hr of labor they had originally quoted me. I’m pretty straightforward about things so that’s why I wanted to mention this to you, so you had time to think about it and figure out how to deal with it.

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