Disappointed with G-loc R10f R8r pads

[Competition Orange]

Took the car to Mid Ohio this weekend and had a blast.

It turned out to be an interesting event as Saturday was non stop rain almost all day long. The rain broke for my last session and track dried out to about 85% dry line, so it was a great prep for today.

Today, cool and foggy in the morning, about 65, then up to about 85 and not a drop of rain.

Over the winter I "upgraded" to G-loc R10f R8r pads, new oem rotors and fresh RBF600 fluid. I also purchased Firestone Indy 500 tires (340 TW).

First session of the day maybe the 4th or 5th lap, indicated 135 on the back straight, and the car wouldn't stop. It was something I had never experienced before. I had to extend the line right to avoid going off track, but managed to handle it and continue on. It rattled me for the rest of that session, but the brakes seemed to come back after a lap of moderate pace. I was pissed.

Knowing this, I had to keep the back straight to 120-130mph and brake earlier than I wanted to. Even doing this, I could feel them start to fall off slightly either on the front straight or back straight depending...

I don't have the Titanium shims or brake ducts, but I simply didn't think I'd need them in April, running 340 TW tires on "upgraded" pads.

I'll either be replacing them or adding cooling and shims...

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[GT350Brakes.com]

I've been there. Over the years I've gone back and forth between Carbotech/GLOC and Ferodo.

The only reason why I went GLOC on my GT350 this time was because Ferodo didn't have anything yet. I had zero confidence in the brakes. They are very sensitive and I can tell you that if they are not bed in perfectly they won't work.

I just finished a trackday last month with the DSUNO fronts and DS1.11 rear. Absolutley phenomenal. I didn't worry about brakes at all. Only brake pads were pads, SS lines and fluid.

If I can help feel free to shoot me a pm. We have a few options for the GT PP.

Gt350brakes.com be sure to use M6G at checkout for the forum discount.

 

[S550Smoke]

That's disappointing considering i just went with the same 10f/8r setup but havent run them yet. I do have brake ducts so maybe that will help but still..

 

[OKC S550]

I went back to OEM pads for this exact reason. The OEM pads are consistent and hold up well to track use.

 

[GT350Brakes.com]

I went back to OEM pads for this exact reason. The OEM pads are consistent and hold up well to track use.

Yup because the oem pads are a Ferodo DS2500. They work very well.

They just require more pedal pressure and will wear faster than a Ferodo DSUNO is Ferodo DS1.11.

 

[GT350Brakes.com]

That's disappointing considering i just went with the same 10f/8r setup but havent run them yet. I do have brake ducts so maybe that will help but still..

Brake ducting has been blown out of proportion for this car, primarily for the GT PP.

Ford chose to use a 15" disc and 6 piston caliper for more than looks. Not only does this combo allow for more pad/disc surface area but it also gives you tons of thermal mass. Thus making it very hard to fade even stock.

Add a good 2 piece disc, SS lines, Ferodo Race pads, fluid and you have a fantastic combination that doesn't require ducting.

I have many customers with the above setup and I myself tested it on my previous car.

Now if you have the Bases GT brakes Ducting is reccomended. You have a lower quality caliper and a smaller disc. From what I understand there aren't many options for 2 piece discs for that setup as well.

 

[OKC S550]

Yup because the oem pads are a Ferodo DS2500. They work very well.

They just require more pedal pressure and will wear faster than a Ferodo DSUNO is Ferodo DS1.11.

I had no clue. I think I will need to try the Ferodo combo you mentioned next time I replace pads.

 

[Competition Orange]

I had no clue. I think I will need to try the Ferodo combo you mentioned next time I replace pads.

Get ready for sticker shock. Unfortunately it's a necessity though (apparently). Pagid pads are supposedly highly recommended too.

We will see how this plays out, not sure I want to drop another grand on brakes right now, but we will see.

 

[GT350Brakes.com]

Get ready for sticker shock. Unfortunately it's a necessity though (apparently). Pagid pads are supposedly highly recommended too.

We will see how this plays out, not sure I want to drop another grand on brakes right now, but we will see.

It's a shame. The GT350/GT PP have some of the most expensive pads from Ferodo. Hopefully they will drop in price over time as popularity grows.

 

[sigintel]

Took the car to Mid Ohio this weekend and had a blast.

It turned out to be an interesting event as Saturday was non stop rain almost all day long. The rain broke for my last session and track dried out to about 85% dry line, so it was a great prep for today.

Today, cool and foggy in the morning, about 65, then up to about 85 and not a drop of rain.

Over the winter I "upgraded" to G-loc R10f R8r pads, new oem rotors and fresh RBF600 fluid. I also purchased Firestone Indy 500 tires (340 TW).

First session of the day maybe the 4th or 5th lap, indicated 135 on the back straight, and the car wouldn't stop. It was something I had never experienced before. I had to extend the line right to avoid going off track, but managed to handle it and continue on. It rattled me for the rest of that session, but the brakes seemed to come back after a lap of moderate pace. I was pissed.

Knowing this, I had to keep the back straight to 120-130mph and brake earlier than I wanted to. Even doing this, I could feel them start to fall off slightly either on the front straight or back straight depending...

I don't have the Titanium shims or brake ducts, but I simply didn't think I'd need them in April, running 340 TW tires on "upgraded" pads.

I'll either be replacing them or adding cooling and shims...

OEM rotors come w protective soft zinc plate for anti rust. If you dont remove it, you can contaminate your pads. Zinc heated to vaporize may recondense on nearby cooler surface (like into pad further). Vinegar and wet sand might be easiest (weargloves). Maybe check every 30 min if using vinegar and hydrogen peroxide 50/50? Prolly other ways?...

 

[stoli]

You sure it was the pads and not your fluid? I had issues when using those pads and RBF600 but not a single issue when I switched to Castrol SRF.

 

[BmacIL]

...RBF660?

 

[ddozier]

First session of the day maybe the 4th or 5th lap, indicated 135 on the back straight, and the car wouldn't stop. It was something I had never experienced before. I had to extend the line right to avoid going off track, but managed to handle it and continue on. It rattled me for the rest of that session, but the brakes seemed to come back after a lap of moderate pace. I was pissed.

Knowing this, I had to keep the back straight to 120-130mph and brake earlier than I wanted to. Even doing this, I could feel them start to fall off slightly either on the front straight or back straight depending...

Need more info to help:

What did the pedal feel like when the car would not stop? Rock Hard, Soft, Normal?

Are you downshifting in the braking zone?

When the pedal came back was it progressively better or did it all the sudden feel normal again?

How was the pedal feel on the next session?

Dave

 

[Competition Orange]

You sure it was the pads and not your fluid? I had issues when using those pads and RBF600 but not a single issue when I switched to Castrol SRF.

You know, it very well could have been the fluid. Like I said, I've never experienced a brake "failure" to this level before.

My friend and instructor recommended Endless, so I'll jump to one of those.

...RBF660?

See above, probably srf or endless.

Need more info to help:

What did the pedal feel like when the car would not stop? Rock Hard, Soft, Normal?

Pedal felt a bit soft during/after.

Are you downshifting in the braking zone?

Yes, it's a long straight from roughly 130-145mph to an 80mph right hander. Downshifting from 5 to 3.

When the pedal came back was it progressively better or did it all the sudden feel normal again?

This one is more difficult because I was a bit off my game after it occurred so I took it about 80% for the next few laps. From what I remember, it came back gradually.

How was the pedal feel on the next session?

Pedal feel and brake performance were back next session and I was constantly braking too early because of the incident.



So one of my theories that popped into my head after the session was over was something that I had read on here. Supposedly these pads run "hot" and tend to burn up dust boots and fluid pretty easily. I was thinking it could have been that causing the fluid to boil, but gave the rbf600 the benefit of the doubt since most have no problems with it on track.

Seems like you all are thinking its fluid and not pads? Some better fluid, maybe titanium shims and ducting?

 

[ddozier]

Seems like you all are thinking its fluid and not pads? Some better fluid, maybe titanium shims and ducting?

It has been my experience that fluid issue do not go away until the system is bleed again to remove the air in the line caused by the fluid boiling. Until the system is bleed you would have a soft pedal and once the fluid has boiled its resistance to boiling again is reduced so the cycle is progressive.

Personally I would add cooling ducts, change the fluid RBF660 (has to be changed more often that RBF600) or SRF (can be changed less often but can effect o-rings and seals) or ProjectMu (expensive but seems to last as long as SRF without the o-ring and seal issues). There are a bunch of other fluids you can try but the wet number is what matters unless you change the fluid before every event.

I am not as familiar with the Gloc pads but I do know the Carbotechs very well, I know the compounds are the same but just not sure how the pad #'s correlate to each other. I am not sure a 4,000# car should be running the R10 and R8 pads, but this has a lot to do with the track layout and drivers braking style so that has to be factored into the equation.

In the Carbotechs I run the XP20 in the front and the XP12 in the rear with ProjectMu fluid, I ran this way for a year without any ducting and had no brake issues on track at all other than finding the limits of the brake booster, in an effort to extend pad life I added front brake ducts, backing plates, and am working on 2 small scoops in the rear under the car to help move more air to the rear brake calipers and outer CV joints. The rear setup with stock rotors will never be ideal as the rotor vents are on the wrong side of the rotor and would have to be feed air from the wheel side of the rotor to move air through the cooling veins. Not the best idea Ford. The rear calipers will need an upgrade to survive long term use but they are so cheap to replace I have been carrying a spare set of calipers for when they fail. Short term, dedicated track cars can run without the dust seals and rotate the pads from outside to inside to extend rear pad life. This caliper design will always have uneven pad wear and until you replace the single sided sliding caliper design to something better the rears will require more maintenance. I replace my rear calipers at the beginning of every season as a precaution and remove the dust seals after the first pad change.

This is what I have learned from the first season of use with the PP brake setup. I am still amazed by how well this package performs considering it is an OEM setup. The GT350 guys are really lucky if Ford improved on the PP brakes short comings because there are not many. Every car I have built for track use has always needed huge brake upgrades to even get through a season of track use so the fact that this heavy of a car can brake as well as it does on an OEM setup is amazing.

Dave

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