DFB's Gardening Thread

[DFB5.0]

Booked the dyno date yet? The muffler is obviously creating a lot of back pressure mate time to get a free flowing unit on that monster.

This is so cool, I'd never have thought you could get replacement parts for a mower this old.

Despite them being very different engines (full crankshaft up to 1984, half crank from then on), some parts were used right through until they stopped making 2-strokes in the late 2010's. The carb for example can be either rebuilt or replaced, the fuel tap is easily replaced. Air filter snorkels are pretty universal as well.

Electrical components, including replacement coils are available. Air filters, blades and blade carriers are easily available too. If I wanted to rebuild the engine, I can also still get replacement bearings and gaskets. Wheel bearing can be swapped, or even full wheel assemblies if you don't mind having non-OE looking items.

It's the stuff like engine covers, catchers, genuine wheels ect. that are harder to find. You are basically shopping used from eBay or Marketplace. Same for major engine components like cranks, flywheels, cylinder heads. New pistons and rings are around though.

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[Balr14]

You should start a small engine repair business. I don't know how it is around there, but where I live in Wisconsin, getting work done on a small engine is very difficult. You wait months and the cost of fixing it is often more than a new one.

 

[DFB5.0]

Tinker day! :dance

The original handle locks on the Rover were cracked and not providing sufficient torque.

I didn't find any locally, so I went with some generic cam locks that were also used by Rover. However, due to the orientation of the handlebars on this model, I had to mount them backwards.

These universal items were not doing it for me, they looked goofy and didn't function as well as I expected, so I tracked down a set of OEM Rover knobs.

Handlebars and Catcher - Push Mowers - ROV00040 Spares and Parts for Rover Easystart Extra (Petrol Mower - Pushed) - Power Tool Spares

At this point, I want to have a rant about Rover not stocking parts in Australia anymore. This is such a shame and representative of an American parent company (MTD) who has no interest in the brand other than making sure they are not competing with their own brands. This is so disappointing as otherwise serviceable machines are sidelined because there is no parts support anymore. Not everyone is going to take the time and expense to track down OE parts located on the other side of the world. (Sorry to my American readers, but its something that has happened countless times to once Aussie owned companies that are bought by huge companies and then ran into the ground....................no one wins out of that sort of thing.)

Anyway, the correct part is A03285 and listed simply as "Knob" on the parts breakdown. This does not even include the required bolt, nut and washer. I decided to source replacements from a local fastener company as the original bolt had warped, which likely caused the split on the original parts.

A quick replacement that has this part of the mower functioning correctly.

Next, the catcher. The original mesh screen had been damaged, allowing clippings to fly out the vents. Interesting to note that the Pro-Cut Rover catchers have steel mesh rather than plastic for durability.

I'm sure I could track down a secondhand catcher, but it would likely be the same. In the spirit of my grandfather, I decided to get creative...............

Jack 180mm x 8m Super Gutter Guard - Bunnings Australia

There are a few different mesh sizes of this stuff, I went with the sturdier and tighter weave to better match the original. Also, how Bunning's get away selling the Saxon stuff is beyond me, it couldn't be any flimsier if they tried and I have to wonder if it would actually function for the intended purpose because I reckon a single gum nut would crush that stuff. But it's cheap, right?

Saxon 180mm x 8.0m Black Plastic Gutter Guard - Bunnings Australia

Anyway, I cut two identical lengths and then attached them together using cable ties, overlapping to get the correct depth.

I then secured it to the original mesh with more cable ties.

Not my usual way of repairing things, but a quick mow of the front lawns revealed I had fixed the problem. Win! Now I have the better part of 8 meters of gutter guard I have no use for. :lol

 

[DFB5.0]

With my desire to build out a collection of tools and having them stored in a logical, efficient way, I wanted to remove my mower spare parts from their current location in the tool drawers below the blue cabinet.

This will free up more room for tools and allow me to build out storage for utility items like zip ties, adhesives, fasteners and tapes.

I was going to get some simple plastic storage drawers, but got sidetracked along the way..........................

MILWAUKEE PACKOUT™ 3-Drawer Tool Box | Total Tools





I chose this because it's something I can build upon if needed, the Packout system is extremely clever and highly customizable. I also like that it has proper ball bearing drawer guides. In this case, I have it located within the large cabinet right next to my tool box.

They also make a two-drawer model, but I didn't need the depth that would have offered and liked the option of having more individual storage boxes. The supplied dividers can be positioned as needed or left out entirely. I also purchased an additional set to go with the one supplied with the unit.

MILWAUKEE Drawer Dividers for PACKOUT™ 3-Drawer Tool Box 48228473 | Total Tools

Air filters, oil filters, blades and belts................

Chains, chassis parts, spark plugs, electrical and fuel parts................

Larger and used parts. Why do I keep old parts? My grandfather did the same.

Because the shelves in the cabinet are adjustable, I can easily add various smaller containers to the top of this unit, or even another set of drawers. Bliss!

 

[DFB5.0]

It's that time of the year again, potting up bare rooted trees.

3 days, 300 trees, 30 pallets. And that's not even scratching the surface.

 

[DFB5.0]

Last week, I decided to drag the 2-stroke Mustang out of the shed to do some mowing in the back garden. Well, things didn't go to plan.

These engines are know to be diva's, suffering from a range of ailments that can make them a nightmare to own. This particular mower is eight years old now, so not a bad trouble-free run. Usually, these engines will fire on the first to third pull, any more than that, it's not going to happen!

I say STOP at this stage because all you will be doing is making it worse and wasting your energy pulling that rope. From there you need to pull the plug, crank the fuel out of the cylinder and try again. It's amazing how you become in tune with an engine over time, any and all of them.

Anyway, looking down at the primer, there was fuel pouring out the base of the cap. So, I turned the fuel tap off and went and ordered some parts, which turned up just in time this morning.

First job was the clean the poor thing. This unit gets pulled out when there some serious cutting to do, so it was showered in grass. A presoak with Bilt Hamber Surfex, a pressure wash, Surfex reapplied and agitated with a brush, followed by a final rinse. I then followed with some Hydr02, because I can!

Onto the job at hand, the leaking primer cap. The rubber o-ring that seals the cap to the carb body is a known wear item, leaking from the base of the carb is the classic sign its time for replacement. These o-rings are available in a few different ways, in my case I ordered them as part of a kit so I had some spares on hand for next time. I also ordered two replacement primer caps as these are also known to perish and warp over time.

O Ring Kit for Victa Carburetor fits G4 Carbs CRO03227A HA253634 HA25126A (greenacresmowers.com.au)
Primer Cap Needle & O'ring Kit for all Victa 2 Stroke Engines 1974 onwards (greenacresmowers.com.au)

Now, you don't need to remove the fuel tank for this job, but its only three bolts and it gives you proper access to the carb. Remove the fuel inlet hose from the front of the primer cap while you are at it.

For those that don't know, the starter setup on these engines also forms the cap for the crankcase. The rubber o-ring that seals it all up is also a known wear item, and an important replacement as it prevents dust from getting into the engine.

With a towel down to soak up any leaks, there was none on mine, remove the primer cap screw, which is actually the main jet.

Inside the chamber was clean...............

The primer cap is made up of the cap itself, a float, plastic needle and the main jet. The rubber o-ring is what keeps it airtight, in this case seemed fine but I replaced it anyway.

After cleaning the cap, I replaced the o-ring with a new one and then reinstalled the needle (pointy end down) and the float. Held carefully, reinstall the cap, making sure to keep the arrow pointing upwards so the float functions correctly. Reinstall the main jet.

Fuel tap on, and NO LEAKS!!

This would have been at least a $150 repair if I took it into the shop. So to have done it for a few dollars and an hour of my time is brilliant. I also got to learn more about these engines.

While I was at it, I chose to replace the lower foam air filter insert, the original now half the size it should have been and basically falling apart. I actually ordered two of these because the one on my grandfather's Mustang had turned to dust. The original OE Victa filter was fine and will see another round.

Foam Dust Seal for Victa Air Filters (greenacresmowers.com.au)

The thing fired on the first pull and is sounding as healthy as ever..............



This is probably my favorite mower, its unstoppable when the going gets tough. These versions of the Victa 2-stroke had the ability to throttle up when under load, even with the throttle at full. The resultant noise is glorious! Where even the stoutest 4-stroke would bog down and stall, this thing just powers on through. Such a shame the greenies killed this engine off.

 

[Balr14]

I bought a new Toro mower last year. They are no longer rated by horsepower. This model has AWD, which I thought was pretty useless. But, the price was right and you don't need to use it if you don't want to.

 

[DFB5.0]

I bought a new Toro mower last year. They are no longer rated by horsepower. This model has AWD, which I thought was pretty useless. But, the price was right and you don't need to use it if you don't want to.

From memory, Briggs and Stratton decided to get rid of horsepower ratings in the mid 2000's, using torque abbreviations instead. Then all the other engine companies followed suit.

At the time, Briggs said that torque was more important than power. I suspect because the old side-valve Briggs engines were not as efficient as OHC and OHV Honda's and Krohler's, both in power and economy.

Also, with noise and emissions becoming more of an issue, the RPM on these engines was reduced. This meant former hp ratings would not have been as impressive. So, publishing a different number was simply a distraction.

I also don't completely buy into the "torque" is more important factor. To cut long grass, you need engine speed. Go start a 2000's Quantum and compare it to the 1990's version, they are night and day. The old version has momentum on its side, revving much higher.

Save for the 190cc commercial 850-series, the newer engines seem weak. A set of pliers on the governor spring works wonders.......................allegedly.

 

[DFB5.0]

Tulip 'World's Favorite'....................

I once planted tulips every year. While most teenage boys perved on motorcycles and the like, I was geeking out over the Tesselaar bulb catalog instead. My grandmother and I would choose what varieties we wanted and combine the postage. Back then, there was no such thing as online shopping, so you would mail in your order with a bank cheque. How things have changed.

She also took me to the Tesselaar Tulip Festival a few times, best described as a multicolored assault to your eyes, with tulip blooms stretching out into the distance.

 

[Balr14]

That's incredible! It's too bad they don't last longer.

 

[DFB5.0]

That's incredible! It's too bad they don't last longer.

Yeah, a windy day will destroy them, appreciate them while they last.

 

[DFB5.0]

Every year it's always "oh, we'll fit them all in".............not this year. Surplus trees are being housed in our holding bays out back...............

When you consider how much of the nursery is dedicated to advanced deciduous trees, that's saying something. And that's not all of them, there is about another 50 odd trees to go in there yet. A combination of slower winter sales plus ordering as much as we could is the cause.

In reality, these trees will probably grow and fill out better than the stock crammed into the nursery.

 

[DFB5.0]

These newer Brigg's & Stratton OHV engines are still pretty new to me, so it's taking me a while to figure out the ins-and-outs.

The key with these engines that replaced the old L-Head/Side valve engines is that they are supposed to run cooler and use less fuel. The fuel use in standard form is in easily better than before, and they seem quieter as well. But they don't rev high enough for my liking. Now, this is in no way restricted to Briggs & Stratton, or even the newer OHV engines.

After running it for a while, I couldn't stand it any longer................

Briggs were cunning in how they hid the governor spring tab on these engines compared to the older designs. But I found it and gave it a little tweak, it's now running nice and strong................



Now, do this at your own risk, preferably once the engine has been run in and had the oil changed. The low running revs of these engines in standard form is designed to meet noise and emission standards, not cutting performance. I probably went a touch too far, but I can easily dial that back. The key thing is that it's cutting much nicer now, powering through rather than bogging down under load.

If you want to do this on your newer B&S 125cc, 140cc, 150cc and 163cc engine, this shows how to do it. You don't need to remove the fuel tank as shown, that was to better show the parts in question -

 

[DFB5.0]

After delays in getting more potting mix (don't go there!), this year's potting is FINALLY done! These last couple of trees done by yours truly, very satisfying and a weight off my shoulders.

And finally, good old Dr. Clifford Park's is in full bloom at the moment at the back of the shop.

This camellia is actually a cross between a Japonica and Reticulata, meaning it has larger foliage than a regular Japonica, and bigger flowers too. It is known to be slower to establish, but certainly rewards with the sheer size of the blooms.

 

[key01]

^ Beautiful !!!

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