Brake Pad Replacement Questions

[16Kobra]

CALIPERFEXION PINS ARE THE BEST!!

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[JAJ]

The guy in the video does a good job explaining things but he missed something important that's not in the instructions for any pressure bleeder I've ever seen. BEFORE YOU ATTACH THE PRESSURE BLEEDER, use a turkey baster or some other tool to lower the level of the fluid in the reservoir to the "min" mark or even a bit below. That creates an air space above the fluid in the reservoir during the bleeding process that stays in place above the fluid for the full time you're bleeding. When you finish and gently release the pressure at the canister, the air in the air pocket pushes all the fluid in the bleeder hose back into the canister. It also leaves a reasonable sized air space above the fluid in the reservoir. You don't get the mess of brake fluid everywhere that he got at the end of the process as he was unplugging stuff. It's actually quite civilized if you take advantage of the air space.

 

[Tomster]

The guy in the video does a good job explaining things but he missed something important that's not in the instructions for any pressure bleeder I've ever seen. BEFORE YOU ATTACH THE PRESSURE BLEEDER, use a turkey baster or some other tool to lower the level of the fluid in the reservoir to the "min" mark or even a bit below. That creates an air space above the fluid in the reservoir during the bleeding process that stays in place above the fluid for the full time you're bleeding. When you finish and gently release the pressure at the canister, the air in the air pocket pushes all the fluid in the bleeder hose back into the canister. It also leaves a reasonable sized air space above the fluid in the reservoir. You don't get the mess of brake fluid everywhere that he got at the end of the process as he was unplugging stuff. It's actually quite civilized if you take advantage of the air space.

Yep, and every time I bleed my brakes, the next time thanksgiving rolls around the corner my wife is pissed wondering where the turkey baster went.....

 

[UnhandledException]

Guys,

Thank you so much for all the info. If I dont need to do anything, I would rather wait. Primarily because I dont want to risk of something going wrong during this pandemic. Where I live is pretty restrictive right now.

What is the criteria for changing the pads as well as flushing out the fluid? I dont think there is any benefit of doing this work. Also keep in mind I have another car as my weekend car (C7 ZR1). GT350 is my daily driver + weekend car with family. I dont drive it hard.

 

[16Kobra]

Yep, and every time I bleed my brakes, the next time thanksgiving rolls around the corner my wife is pissed wondering where the turkey baster went.....

 

[Hack]

One thing I found when I replaced the brakes on my GT350 was that there was a ridge around the outside edge of the rotors. That ridge makes it a little tougher to get the caliper over the rotor with new pads. The ridge can also contribute to squealing of the brakes. I ended up grinding the ridges off. It really reduced the brake noise with the new pads.

To the OP, yes you can delay replacing pads. I always replace mine early because if you wait too long you'll end up with bad rotors too. Well - I also replace mine early due to track days and realizing I will get a lot of wear on a track day. But I can totally understand wanting to delay the work due to current circumstances if you are an at risk person or you are around at risk people.

 

[Tomster]

Guys,

Thank you so much for all the info. If I dont need to do anything, I would rather wait. Primarily because I dont want to risk of something going wrong during this pandemic. Where I live is pretty restrictive right now.

What is the criteria for changing the pads as well as flushing out the fluid? I dont think there is any benefit of doing this work. Also keep in mind I have another car as my weekend car (C7 ZR1). GT350 is my daily driver + weekend car with family. I dont drive it hard.

You need to bleed your brakes. The fluid is hydrophylic and absorbs water over time. That water can corrode brake parts. You are probably fine, but when you change your brakes, bleed them too. Do yourself a favor and look at the inside pads and make sure they are ok too.

 

[JAJ]

Yep, and every time I bleed my brakes, the next time thanksgiving rolls around the corner my wife is pissed wondering where the turkey baster went.....

I just get ours back in the drawer before she misses it

 

[foolwithtools]

Hello Forum,

After 59,000 miles, I think it's time for me to change the brake pads. The fronts are down to as much as backing plate whereas rears are a little more. I do have some questions with the procedure and the replacement pads:

- I have read various threads as to what the right way is for doing the pad replacements. Some threads show special tools to spread the pistons as well as the rear hand brake spring. I found one video online which shows a much easier way where he recommends to unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap and push the pistons out. This also does not require any special tools. Is there anything wrong with this procedure? Is there a better/another DIY that explains this?

- I don't track this car (you can tell from 59,000 miles = stock pads). That being said, I dont know whether I should get different pads or stock. What is the best street pad?

- Some threads I read talks about these bolts and that they need to be replaced. Is this true for someone who will change these pads only every 60,000 miles? Should I get new bolts?

- Why is anti sieze required where blue loctite is on these bolts? Isn't this the complete opposite of what OEM install has?

- How long does the ROTORS last? Can I use them with a different pad than OEM?

Any other suggestions, etc I should know before I attempt this?

Thanks a lot

I don't have my GT350 yet and therefore haven't had a chance to work on it, but from my experience with other cars, use brake lubricant on the back of your brake pads where the pistons contact them instead of anti-seize. Autofantic used antiseize there dampen vibrations from his brakes to quiet them. Brake lubricant is actually made to be used on your brakes so it should dampen vibrations better than antiseize. On top of helping dampen vibrations brake lube will also protect against corrosion, better handle the high temperatures that brakes experience and be harder to wash away because it was designed for that environment. Antiseize is great at what it's made for, which is preventing fastener threads from galling or getting damaged after being left for a long time, but brake lube on brakes is just the right tool for the right job.

Watching Autofanatic's videos, there were a few instances where it appeared that he wasn't too knowledgeable about what he was talking about but still claimed to be an expert. He's really opinionated. But one area where I have to give him credit is that he REALLY knows his stuff when it comes to detailing and working with interiors.

There are plenty of brands of brake lube of varying quality and price. You can get some from your local Autozone for pretty cheap. If you want to have matching branding on your car, here is some from Brembo, the manufacturer of the brake calipers: https://www.amazon.com/Brembo-B-Quiet-Lubricant-Efficiency-Brakes/dp/B07D7Y88P7/

 

[UnhandledException]

Hi forum friends,

Bumping this thread as I now want to do the brake pads (the pads are same thickness as the backing plate - perhaps a mm or so less and I am at 61,500 miles). I have a few questions. I have been doing a ton of reading on this for the past few weeks but still need some clarity:

- Considering I don't track and the pads last me 60,000 miles. Do you think I should spend $200 on the caliperfexion studs (and sleeves) or use new bolts ($60) + extended M14 bolts 180mm to slide the rotor in/out ($20-30 for 4 of them shipped) OR re-use the factory bolts (clean the thread locker with a wire brush and re-apply it)?

- Can I use the existing bolts after cleaning their thread locker with a wire brush to clean the aluminum knuckle threads? Just run it by hand multiple times all the way in and out then follow with a compressor?

Thanks

 

[JAJ]

Well, if it was me, I'd do what I did the first couple of times I changed my brake pads. I used the 180 mm bolts and I re-installed the factory bolts without bothering to clean them. They're torqued to something like 140 ft-lbs - those dudes aren't going anywhere, even without thread locker. If you're only changing pads every 60,000 miles, then anti-corrosion is more important than convenience, and the OEM bolts are pretty robust. Stainless steel, threaded into aluminum can corrode - which is why I have the steel Caliperfexion studs on my car.

Are you doing rotors too? The rear rotors can be a bit tedious to change, but there are a couple of threads here on tools and techniques that make it simpler.

 

[UnhandledException]

Well, if it was me, I'd do what I did the first couple of times I changed my brake pads. I used the 180 mm bolts and I re-installed the factory bolts without bothering to clean them. They're torqued to something like 140 ft-lbs - those dudes aren't going anywhere, even without thread locker. If you're only changing pads every 60,000 miles, then anti-corrosion is more important than convenience, and the OEM bolts are pretty robust. Stainless steel, threaded into aluminum can corrode - which is why I have the steel Caliperfexion studs on my car.

Are you doing rotors too? The rear rotors can be a bit tedious to change, but there are a couple of threads here on tools and techniques that make it simpler.

so the caliperfexion studs will have a corrosion problem? My car is daily driven and that includes plenty of salt and snow driving with snow tires in the winter. So for me corrosion and potential weakness corroded bolts will have is a problem. I am going to keep this car forever (and I mean that, 200-300k miles) and long term outlook is a big factor.

I am not doing the rotors as they are nowhere near minimum thickness.

Edit : Rotors are 36.70mm front and 25.43mm rear.

 

[JAJ]

so the caliperfexion studs will have a corrosion problem? My car is daily driven and that includes plenty of salt and snow driving with snow tires in the winter. So for me corrosion and potential weakness corroded bolts will have is a problem. I am going to keep this car forever (and I mean that, 200-300k miles) and long term outlook is a big factor.

I am not doing the rotors as they are nowhere near minimum thickness.

I experienced corrosion during winter driving on a set of Stoptech's I had a few years back. The caliper studs were stainless and there was a buildup of white corrosion product on the studs where they were in contact with the aluminum calipers. I don't know if the Caliperfexion ones would do this or not - I don't have them - but I went with black oxide coated 4340 steel because of the corrosion I'd seen with stainless.

The black oxide studs will rust, so I douse them with WD40 every time I take them off the car - they're fine after three years, although this car has never seen road salt, so that helps.

 

[GT_Dave]

Talk to Calperfextion, they make their studs with 2 options for different steel materials and can tell you if you would have any issues with your driving circumstance. My 350 is a daily driver and I went with the version they suggested 4 years ago and have not had any problems. But I do not drive in any heavy salted conditions.

 

[UnhandledException]

I experienced corrosion during winter driving on a set of Stoptech's I had a few years back. The caliper studs were stainless and there was a buildup of white corrosion product on the studs where they were in contact with the aluminum calipers. I don't know if the Caliperfexion ones would do this or not - I don't have them - but I went with black oxide coated 4340 steel because of the corrosion I'd seen with stainless.

The black oxide studs will rust, so I douse them with WD40 every time I take them off the car - they're fine after three years, although this car has never seen road salt, so that helps.

Ok, I'l stick with the stock bolts. Not sure whether I should clean them and reuse or not. Some people say they are torque to yield some say they are not and the reason why Ford's manual asks you discard them is due to the blue stuff on threads and this risk of average mechanic not willing to go through with proper cleaning of their threads.

I have some further questions/clarifications. This is what I plan to do in the order below. My goal is to replace the pads and flush/replace brake fluid that is almost 4 years old.

Pad procedure:

1. Get the car on jack stands, remove all wheels.
2. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap to release pressure and place the cap on it loosely ensuring it will breathe.
3. Start with rear (easy) brake pads. Remove the two pins, the spring. Clean both with brake cleaner.
4. Use the old pads as leverage to push the pistons all the way back.
5. Slide out the old pads, slide in the new pads. Put the spring and pins back.
6. Next on the front calipers, loosen both caliper bolts but dont remove them.
7. Remove the push pins.
8. Remove the top bolt.
9. Insert the 180mm M14 bolt several times chasing the threads, cleaning the blue stuff out with air compressor.
10. Once all clean, insert the M14 bolt all the way. Repeat the process in the below bolt.
11. Slide the caliper out.
12. Use the old pads as leverage to push the pistons out.
13. Remove the old pads.
14. Remove and clean the spring and push pins with brake cleaner.
15. Insert the spring back, the new pads.
16. Slide the caliper back.
17. Remove the longer bolts one at a time, tighten the stock bolts by hand ensuring both top/bottom are tightened together only a few turns at a time.
18. Insert the push pins back.
19. Torque the caliper bolts to 136 ft/lbs.

Fluid flush/replacement procedure:

1. With the car on jackstands, wheels off.
2. Start from the passenger rear wheel outer bleed screw. In each wheel, always bleed the outer screw then the inner screw first.
3. Clean/remove the bleed screw cap.
4. Insert tubing (can anyone confirm the size of the tubing and whether the plastic bottle to be used needs to be airtight or the tube can be inserted freely?) To the bleed screw.
5. Loosen the bleed screw.
6. Ask my wife to continuously pump the brakes as I watch fluid to come out (does the car need to be running or can the pumping of the brakes be done while its off?)
7. Check the reservoir and add new brake fluid when the fluid level goes below minimum.
8. Once I see the new clean fluid, tighten the screw, remove the tubing, clean the screw, add back the cap, and move to the next side.
9. Repeat this until all sides are done going from passenger rear, to driver rear, to passenger front, and lastly driver front. In all of them, ensure clean fluid is entering the bottle and that there are no air bubbles.
10. Expect to use 1-1.5 liters of brake fluid (750ml is what the manual says, but with a full flush and bleed, I should expect to use more?)
11. Remove the excess fluid above the max fluid line after all 8 lines are done with a turkey baster.

I know using that fluid pumping container, this can be done without the second person but I am afraid that will introduce air into the system. It will also waste a lot of fluid not to mention might make a mess in the engine bay due to leaks or depressurizing. I think the old proven way of someone pumping the brakes is better. Its also important to have control of asking my wife to stop pumping the brakes if something goes wrong whereas that container will be under constant pressure and I will have to physically go to the hood and depressurize it which means big mess as I cant be in two places at once.

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