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Boosted gen2 engine headgasket failure opinions wanted.
- Thread starter ssmustang302
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furdfan2018
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Not my recommendation, it comes directly from ARP. OP said he has studs so it would be wise to check torque and re-apply where necessary.
Now... I'd agree completely this is less necessary -- or maybe not necessary at all on a MLS head gasket motor. However on a composite gasket you'd be crazy not to recheck after 500 miles IMO.
80FoxCoupe
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Just pulled my sheet for ARP 256-4702, 12mm headstuds for coyote. No mention of re-torque. Procharger, 30psi, Cometic MLX, no problem. But as you mentioned multi layer likely doesn't need it, therefore re-torque not recommended.
1995 mustang, 306cid, master power 70mm turbo, c4 trans, 9.70 on pump gas. Graphite HG, no re-torque and ran it for a few years.
I'm not saying it's the right way, just saying what I do. Or don't do in this situation LOL
ice445
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Aren't the gen 3 head bolts inaccessible without removing the cams? I forget lol
furdfan2018
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Good point.. nope. Can't get to them.
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Angrey
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Just get the new cometics, buy some ARP 11mm studs, follow the instructions explicitly and you should be good for north of 20 psi before you start any real head lift concerns.
It's very important that whomever installs the ARP follow the instructions to the letter. Don't try to outsmart them or old school it. In fact if you want to deviate, I prefer to follow the torquing order and do it in even smaller increments (by the time you're finished you should be increasing torque by 5 ft-lbs increment). It takes longer but you'll get a nice even clamp loading and more accurate and consistent values (if you've lubed properly and went in proper order).
It's very important that whomever installs the ARP follow the instructions to the letter. Don't try to outsmart them or old school it. In fact if you want to deviate, I prefer to follow the torquing order and do it in even smaller increments (by the time you're finished you should be increasing torque by 5 ft-lbs increment). It takes longer but you'll get a nice even clamp loading and more accurate and consistent values (if you've lubed properly and went in proper order).
DougS550
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That gasket definitely looks used, sad to see that. As far as retorque head bolts, I don't think it is required to do a retorque now days, but for me, it would just be piece of mind. When I have to rebuild my engine, I will sleeve the cylinders, Stainless O-ring the block and use a copper head gasket, or Copper O ring the block and use a MLS gasket (second way is probably better). I've used stainless O ring combo on a blower bike before and it worked great. Good Luck.
80FoxCoupe
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Of course it looks used, cause it is used. Was it used when it was installed? That's the question. Why any shop would reuse an oem head gasket is beyond me.
DougS550
Well-Known Member
Daaaaaa!!!.
As far as going after the builder questioning about if he did or did not use new gaskets, that would be mute. I would suggest for anyone have work done to be as involved as possible with the build and or ask for All old parts back and all parts receipts. plus specific areas of concern you would like them to take pictures of. But for me, probably the most important thing would to research performance shops who have a great reputation for building engines. It is usually better to pay more for a high reputable engine builder then pay less for a back yard mechanic so to speak. Not saying OP did that. Life's a bitch and shit just happens sometimes. Happens to all of us.
80FoxCoupe
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Agreed!
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HKusp
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The peace of mind re-torqueing the heads wouldn't be worth the nerve racking thoughts injected into your mind from removing the cams, cam caps, and tower bolts, then re-torqueing them. Effe that crap.
80FoxCoupe
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Just initially torquing headstuds on a coyote is is a concerning process. I'm always glad when it's done.
Flat side of washer faces head. Bulbous side faces nut. Scuff flat side of washer with 120 grit, and clean head and washer with brake cleaner. Dry between head and washer. Dab of moly lube between top washer and nut. Follow instructions for remaining steps. The above ensures the washer does not spin with the nut which would like end up breaking a stud.
Flat side of washer faces head. Bulbous side faces nut. Scuff flat side of washer with 120 grit, and clean head and washer with brake cleaner. Dry between head and washer. Dab of moly lube between top washer and nut. Follow instructions for remaining steps. The above ensures the washer does not spin with the nut which would like end up breaking a stud.
OP
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ssmustang302
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No they were not retorqued that would be a major pain.
OP
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ssmustang302
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Heads were torqued to 100ftlbs per arp instructions with arp lube on threads & bottom side of nut / top of washer. Engine is back in should be running soon. That gasket def had more than 1000 miles. I had a few engine builders look at them they all said the same thing. Hopefully it’ll go 8.99 Now.
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