Should I run 305/315 stagger on square rims, or 305 1st square set + 315 2nd square set?

[GTP]

Just ordered in this strut hole opening tool.

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[tosha]

Just ordered in this strut hole opening tool.

Very high tech device

 

[GTP]

To be honest, if you have enough camber so the fronts don't shred their shoulders too soon, rotating tires might accelerate wear in some cases. The tires wear a bit different front /rear so switching axles you get the worst of both wear patterns for a while. It really helps if the front wheels dont have enough camber and the fronts are wearing out early on the shoulders.

@NightmareMoon
I heard everyone wears out the shoulders on Cup2's up front, regardless of camber angle. And one racer said his friend's lap times were slower with -4* than with -3.5* due to worse braking, and not needing all that camber for all corners.

Do you think rotating left & right sides for the 305/315 combo might be sufficient? Especially since most tracks are clockwise.

 

[GTP]

Very high tech device

Measures 15.25mm diameter. Easy to control the progress.

 

[Biggsy]

Just a tad bit of advice or suggestion. I have found max camber doesn’t work for all tires. Some are softer than others. I had to dial back negative camber on my V730s. The insides were wearing more than the outsides.

i would suggest picking up a pyrometer. Take temps as soon as you exit the track to get an idea on pressures needed and camber. Just my thoughts.
-3* is ideal but again every tire and track yields different results

 

[bnightstar]

I will add my 2 cents. I prefer square setups for tire rotations some tires need more tire rotation than others though. For Example the AR-1 benefited a lot from rotations since they are a hard tire and wear slow. The A052 is very soft tire so the tire rotation was not needed as I'm getting very similar wear front to back. Ether way I suggest you go with square setup 305 square and if 315 fit 315 square as second set.

Regarding camber you need enough camber to fit the front tires under the fenders with -3.4 camber personally for what I do with the car and my local tracks and based a lot on tire temps that's to much camber.

Every setup is different though so learning how to get good tire temps and to read the tire is better skill to have than -0.2 degrees of camber.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I rotate about every hour. But I go for max life span. I get different wear front to back and side to side. Heavily dependent on the track. I’m one data point, but it would grind me seeing uneven wear require dropping $2k more frequently

I get -3 in front using steeda bump steer arms (lose static camber), maxed crash bolts up top, FP Camber plates and stock strut openings. This is a compromise setup that avoids noisy strut mounts, gets half decent temps, but doesn't wear the shit out of the insides on the street. Not near enough camber for temps on a 305+ cup2.

I have 30mm and 25mm spacers I interchange on gt4 studs--works fine

Putting these tires in the car for track days gets old fast-- I roll 305 endurance 200TW's to/from events but I'm just going for the HPDE trophy. And the cooling challenges you are about to face on 305+ almost-race compounds....

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