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mavisky

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Getting any real info out of Steeda is impossible, but I'm going off of what the guy said that chimes in every once in a while. I could easily be wrong.
There's some info out there from them but at least they engage with the forum unlike many of the other vendors. I can't think of the last time I saw BMR, Vorschlag, Whiteline, Eibach, or any other vendor really engage with the forum other than just reposting their latest ad.
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Biggsy

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Archetype racing can go eat rocks, since they haven't shipped any parts and don't respond to emails.
What did you order from them?
I was trying to order the oil lines during memorial weekend but they never updated the promo on the hardware even though they said they did
 

NightmareMoon

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What did you order from them?
I was trying to order the oil lines during memorial weekend but they never updated the promo on the hardware even though they said they did
The oil lines. I'm going to email them again.
 

CobaltFilly

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When I go 3.73 gears (as many have advised me to do, I am running stock 3.15s currently), do you all suggest I go with torsen differential or keep the base differential (if that is possiible)?
 

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CobaltFilly

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definitely go with NOT clutch-pack. There's 2-3 well known alternatives to Torsen.
Can you please explain what is "clutch-pack"? And this is news to me, what kind of alternatives should I consider?
Thanks as always for your help Shogun

EDIT: Ah clutch-pack...I think I understand...


"To determine whether your vehicle has a limited-slip or an open differential is one of the easiest driveline checks. The first step is to place the vehicle on a flat and level surface, block the front wheels, and raise the rear wheels off the ground with a jack. As always, practice safety first and place the vehicle on jack stands. Shift the transmission into neutral and make sure that the parking brake is released. Now just rotate one rear wheel in the forward direction and pay attention to the rotation direction of the other wheel.

If it rotates in the same direction (forward), the rear end has a limited-slip differential. If the other wheel rotates in the reverse direction, then the rear end has an open differential. It is that simple.

However, there is one exception: An extremely worn clutch-plate-style limited-slip differential may act like an open differential because the plates are so severely worn."
 
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shogun32

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Can you please explain what is "clutch-pack"? And this is news to me, what kind of alternatives should I consider?
Thanks as always for your help Shogun
the standard diff ues 'S' spring to keep things in place and apply pressure on the pack. Think of it as a simplified version of a motorcycle wet clutch.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/understanding-the-traction-lok-diff.154366/

Eaton DetroIt is one. I'm blanking on the other 2 and my Bookmark collection is coming up empty. @TeeLew and I were discussing the matter at length some time back.

Steeda used to have a couple of alternatives as well. But seems gone now?

This wasn't what I was thinking of but whatever.
https://www.tf-works.com/kaaz-limited-slip-differential-ford-mustang-15-s550/
 
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Biggsy

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OS Giken is an alternative. Tunable rear diff
 

kz

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When I go 3.73 gears (as many have advised me to do, I am running stock 3.15s currently), do you all suggest I go with torsen differential or keep the base differential (if that is possiible)?
Torsen of course but research flange compatibility as they all kept changing between different years and manual / auto cars. Easiest path is get a loaded differential as replacement of the gear / diff is less straighforward than most mechanical work we do on our cars.

Biggsy aboce mentioned OS Giken - in Cali - if I recall correctly - you have a person selling them (Shaftworks USA) that used to work for OSG I believe. He's the best person to talk to about them but you have to know what you want.

Gearing - that highly depends - also on the size of the tire you're running which affects gearing the same way differential gear does.
Since this is autocross thread - this is an important consideration, especially if you're low on power / torque - what's your max speed in 2nd gear currently ? You want to avoid shifting to 3rd and car being slow to accelerate when you slow down being in 2nd gear in a slow corner.

You basically want you're max 2nd gear speed in high 60s / very low 70s mpg (IMO) (lower than that if you're only plan to run local events and have small venue) - so you choose your diff gear ratio based on that taking into account what the tire size you're planning on driving on is going to do.

315/30R18 tires are pretty short compared to most Mustang stock sized tires.
 

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NightmareMoon

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right.. what is your max speed in 2nd gear currently?
 

CobaltFilly

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right.. what is your max speed in 2nd gear currently?
About 71-72mph at 7500rpm redline
19x11s 295 all around, will be going 305 or 315s in 2 years.
And I was informed by multiple people that 3.73 is perfect for NA V6...and if I go 3.73s my top in 2nd should still be around 65+.... I want to be competitive later on and also build her into a TT3 car.

Diff is one item I don't want to do myself, so my local Customs shop that does my track alignments will take care of this for me.
 

NightmareMoon

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71.5 mph and 331->373 = 63.4mph.
331->355 is 66.6

Lower top speed is better except when its forcing you to shift
 

MrMike

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71.5 mph and 331->373 = 63.4mph.
331->355 is 66.6

Lower top speed is better except when its forcing you to shift
Think he has 3.15s since it's a V6 yeah?
 

NightmareMoon

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If your 296 tires are 295/35 then going to a 305/30 or 315/30 will also reduce your top speed as well. If you look up the tire revs per mile you can calculate how much.
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