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Maximizer (ebay) Headers with pics

Ishyne22

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Material claims from china are as reliable as Japanese (Hitachi?) steel certs...

Even if the tubing is sound, I have to wonder at the welds at the head.
i was pleasantly surprised at the weld q
Material claims from china are as reliable as Japanese (Hitachi?) steel certs...

Even if the tubing is sound, I have to wonder at the welds at the head.
first thing i looked at was the welds. quality stacked dimes. no holes.
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Ishyne22

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shogun32

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Can you measure tubing thickness?
I'm not sure I like the look of the tubes into the collector.
 

Ishyne22

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Can you measure tubing thickness?
I'm not sure I like the look of the tubes into the collector.
already installed… collectors looked very good, cones were nice and straight. I have another set of maximizers being delivered today. i will measure and take more pictures for you to try to find something to nit pick. But in all seriousness, at this price they have to be taking a loss. perhaps they are liquidating inventory? I cut out my mbrp h pipe from their street kit and inserted a magnaflow resonated x pipe. cold start and idle quieter than before the long tubes. Zero rasp. Sounds more like a ferrari than a mustang now. Butt dyno says pretty significant increase in power paired with the whipple.
 

shogun32

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i will measure and take more pictures for you to try to find something to nit pick
heh, that's fair. To me there is only 1 correct way to do collectors and that's with fish-mouth cuts, or if you're gonna butt-joint it, a plate just like at the engine block end.
 

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Ishyne22

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heh, that's fair. To me there is only 1 correct way to do collectors and that's with fish-mouth cuts, or if you're gonna butt-joint it, a plate just like at the engine block end.
I have never seen fish mouth or flanged collectors for s550. Most companies are using spiked collectors in their long tube designs. i cant think how one could finagle a spike in the collector with a fish mouth cut. 🤷‍♂️
 

shogun32

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Most companies are using spiked collectors in their long tube designs.
just because nobody does it correctly, doesn't mean that it's ok. :)
monkeys peel bananas from the wrong end, doesn't make them right. :)

either way $200 is a crazy price for what looks like at least half-way decent product.
 

DonnieO

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just because nobody does it correctly, doesn't mean that it's ok. :)
monkeys peel bananas from the wrong end, doesn't make them right. :)

either way $200 is a crazy price for what looks like at least half-way decent product.

Save your money. Looks like a lot of the welds are autogenous. No Bueno!
 

robvas

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My worry with cheap stuff like this is a tube or weld developing a crack, then having to buy a new set and re-install

I bought a lot of Pacesetter exhaust parts back in the day!
 

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Save your money. Looks like a lot of the welds are autogenous. No Bueno!
OK, let’s have an explanation on “autogenous”. I am all ears.
 

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Ishyne22

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My worry with cheap stuff like this is a tube or weld developing a crack, then having to buy a new set and re-install

I bought a lot of Pacesetter exhaust parts back in the day!
Deifintely not autogenous, lol. 2 sets for $500 ill take my chances and keep the $1000+ savings in my pocket. I can weld, so repairs are not an issue. Guess people in this place dont like good deals. I will risk it for the biscuit.
 

shogun32

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Guess people in this place dont like good deals
we've seen "good deals" from Alibaba, Temu and the like. Once your fingers get sliced or burned, one is more cautious about such things. If you can do your own welding, that removes almost all of the risk. I think you'd be hard-pressed to find a dozen guys on this forum who can weld.
 

Paul McWhiskey

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we've seen "good deals" from Alibaba, Temu and the like. Once your fingers get sliced or burned, one is more cautious about such things. If you can do your own welding, that removes almost all of the risk. I think you'd be hard-pressed to find a dozen guys on this forum who can weld.
Just throwing in my $0.02 here, I have to agree with Shogun32 here. I know people who have welding equipment ( gas and arc, tig, and mig) and I know people who can weld. I certainly am no expert or even apprentice welder, but you don’t have to be to recognize work that is done expertly.

Yes, there are things that only deserve a “get it done quick and run it” weld. Non critical parts like a crack in the bed of my pickup fit this category. Sure, it can be done expertly, and yes, it will probably be a stronger weld, but I am talking about a 24 year old work truck. Not critical.

Now, on an exhaust system, the weld quality is certainly more critical. Consideration for many things come in to play here. Those considerations can be different for a full on race car and a daily driven street car. In both instances I think that safety is very high on the list.

To tie this up each of us make a series of considerations when buying parts. If one buys based on what others say then one should make sure that the considerations used for the recommendation are in line with theirs. So this is not meant to critique or recommend these headers. Only to suggest a methodology on how to choose your parts.

In the end, it’s kinda like how you choose the whiskey you drink. Think about it.
 
 




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