Base Radio upgrade?

[NeverSatisfied]

I know there's a bunch of threads.. I searched quite a bit, but couple questions based on what i've read...

2021 Base w/ 4" screen that I'll keep for now... One day I'll switch to the 8". Looking at upgrading the system some...

I have an Alpine XA90V 5 channel amp that has hi level input option and crossovers for full range and sub output. I also have a 10" JL sub in a box collecting Dust.

1. Do i need a DSP? if so, DSR1 or LC7 or? Or can I just go in with forescan and level the EQ to feed the amp, then work with the adjustments available on the amp?

2. What changed between 2020 and 2021 on the base radio?
Looks like this is a great way to splice in the amp... PAC LPHFD21 LocPro Advanced T-Harness
T-harness for adding an aftermarket amp, LOC, or signal processor to a select 2003-20 Ford vehicle without a factory amp. If this is a no-go, Is there a good T harness for a 2021?

3. If I get a pair of component speakers with an external crossover do I use the factory wires to feed the doors through the external crossover and then rewire the tweeters in the A pillar back to the external crossover to keep them separate?

4. Delete the rear deck speakers? Run off the amp? Run off the HU?

I'm far from a fidelity guy, This is a dual duty track car. But I'd like to get the radio sounding half-decent.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Sponsored

 

[shogun32]

I'm far from a fidelity guy, This is a dual duty track car. But I'd like to get the radio sounding half-decent.

Then why touch anything? Forscan the EQ flat and defeat the bass rolloff. Then use the on screen sliders to taste. Mine are set to -2, 0, +5

And optionally cut out the carpet over the rear speakers. Add sound deadening.

The stock 6 sounds good enough to me. And when I pop into the mach1 with b&o it doesn't sound that much better.

 

[Evolvd]

1. Do i need a DSP? if so, DSR1 or LC7 or? Or can I just go in with forescan and level the EQ to feed the amp, then work with the adjustments available on the amp?

No, you don't "need" a DSP. If you're looking for a simple improvement in sound quality then a DSP is not a requirement.

2. What changed between 2020 and 2021 on the base radio?
Looks like this is a great way to splice in the amp... PAC LPHFD21 LocPro Advanced T-Harness
T-harness for adding an aftermarket amp, LOC, or signal processor to a select 2003-20 Ford vehicle without a factory amp. If this is a no-go, Is there a good T harness for a 2021?

@Cathul or @m3incorp might be able to better assist with this question as I've only worked on the B&O system

3. If I get a pair of component speakers with an external crossover do I use the factory wires to feed the doors through the external crossover and then rewire the tweeters in the A pillar back to the external crossover to keep them separate?

Your best bet in that case is the tap the speaker wires inside the car just before they go into the door grommet. This allows you to run a dedicated wire to your new speakers and bypassing the stock wiring. Otherwise you'll have to find somewhere in the door panel to mount your passive crossover network. This has been done before but I'm not a fan of that approach.

4. Delete the rear deck speakers? Run off the amp? Run off the HU?

This is up to personal preference. I like having rear fill. Some folks regurgitate the misleading claim that "There are no speakers behind you at a concert". This may be true but do have reflections from the environment and structures behind you.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Then why touch anything? Forscan the EQ flat and defeat the bass rolloff. Then use the on screen sliders to taste. Mine are set to -2, 0, +5

And optionally cut out the carpet over the rear speakers. Add sound deadening.

The stock 6 sounds good enough to me. And when I pop into the mach1 with b&o it doesn't sound that much better.

My other couple cars have some seriously better factory sound—was hoping to get this thing somewhere in the ballpark since I think I’ve got the most expensive parts just sitting in my basement.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

No, you don't "need" a DSP. If you're looking for a simple improvement in sound quality then a DSP is not a requirement.



@Cathul or @m3incorp might be able to better assist with this question as I've only worked on the B&O system



Your best bet in that case is the tap the speaker wires inside the car just before they go into the door grommet. This allows you to run a dedicated wire to your new speakers and bypassing the stock wiring. Otherwise you'll have to find somewhere in the door panel to mount your passive crossover network. This has been done before but I'm not a fan of that approach.



This is up to personal preference. I like having rear fill. Some folks regurgitate the misleading claim that "There are no speakers behind you at a concert". This may be true but do have reflections from the environment and structures behind you.

Thanks for the input— maybe I’m describing my wiring diagram in my head incorrectly for the fronts—I’m gonna feed amped front channels up to near the HU, into the passive crossover boxes. Then feed the woofer outputs on the crossover into the factory front L/R wiring at the T harness to power the new woofers. I’m going to not use the factory tweeter wires and feed new wires from the crossover up to the a pillars for the new tweeters.

I appreciate any input if I’m out in left field

 

[Cathul]

Did the base ACM change during all those years?
If not, you should be able to use the T-Harness.
If in doubt, just pull the ACM and check the connectors or get your hands on the factory workshop manual and look up the connectors in the wiring diagram.

The rest should be doable in regards to wiring the speakers.

 

[Bassackwards]

I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. I basically did the same thing with my f150 and even used Forscan to change the signal to pre-amp.

Sponsored