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What lug nut torque have you settled on?

mejohn50

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Completely agree... my lugs never see 150 ft lbs... never. That number is just ridiculous. I am 100-110.
I assume your car never sees wide open throttle or red line either. Probably best to keep it around 70% throttle and 5000rpm. 100% throttle and 7000rpm+ is just ridiculous.
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TonyNJ

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Hi everyone,

Since day 1, 150 ft*lb felt bad and I reduced to 140 ft*lb when attaching my wheels.

40k miles, lots of motorsports, and many tire changes later a stud broke on the only wheel bearing I haven’t had to replace.

I guess I’ll go for 130 ft*lb now and hope for the best.

Interestingly, if the factory studs are grade 8.8, then 120 ft*lb would make sense, and if they are grade 10.9, they should take 173 ft*lb. I therefore suspect they aren’t 10.9.

Some might argue that wheel studs are a wear item, but this is the first time in my life I had one break including several cars with 300k+ miles and lives just as hard.

So the questions:
Has anyone encountered an adverse effect due to lowering the wheel tightening torque? If so, what?

How low have you gone in lug nut torque?

P.S. I hate doing rear wheel bearings.

EBC42A13-A436-4EA3-92B5-6976F9348C0A.jpeg


97C25147-2350-4813-9CD5-22A512C6728A.jpeg
Recently installed new longer studs for CF wheels. I go 150ft lbs. 🤞
 

mkcotton

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Real men do it finger tight only.
100 is way too high.
like 80 prolly risky.
im going back to 3 nuts after trying just 2 cause ya know, wanna save those sweet virgin threads for next owner in like 30 years when Im dead or tired of staring at me garage queen that signifies all my boyhood dreams.
I throw lug nuts away and use new ones everytime I change oil or my depends.
Also, by using 12 lug nuts entire car, its lighter and faster!
(Best Jim Cramer voice:
Ford engineers know NOTHING!)
I would love to be in the room when the Ford engineers and Bean Counters and lawyers go at it... probably sounds a lot like above.

If you were a real man you'd go no lugs!
 

mkcotton

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I assume your car never sees wide open throttle or red line either. Probably best to keep it around 70% throttle and 5000rpm. 100% throttle and 7000rpm+ is just ridiculous.
Not sure how the two equate... is this you trying to be funny or just a dickhead... Here's some logic for you... Lug nuts: F150 150 ft lbs, Sierra 1500 150 ft lbs... but no, a mustang (regardless of model) must 150 ft lbs... bullshit, application matters.
 

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mkcotton

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Somehow this doesn’t surprise me at all.
You reply to a post about lug nut torque specs, with some dumbass rpm shit... then you feel the need to tell me how surprised you aren't... WOW you really have no self-awareness. This isn't Face Book... or does that surprise you? If you disagree with me, cool... but smarmy comments... go fuck yourself.
 

mejohn50

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You reply to a post about lug nut torque specs, with some dumbass rpm shit... then you feel the need to tell me how surprised you aren't... WOW you really have no self-awareness. This isn't Face Book... or does that surprise you? If you disagree with me, cool... but smarmy comments... go fuck yourself.
I’d like to see your analysis on why 150 is too much for the lugs.

I’m also curious to know what analysis you’ve done on other aspects of the car, like engine power or RPM capabilities, to know that Ford got those right, but lug torque wrong. Does it equate now?
 

mkcotton

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I’d like to see your analysis on why 150 is too much for the lugs.

I’m also curious to know what analysis you’ve done on other aspects of the car, like engine power or RPM capabilities, to know that Ford got those right, but lug torque wrong. Does it equate now?
Sure, that equates, and would've been so much easier... instead of your attempt at, "I'm smarter than you", which you clearly aren't. I am not going to send you a bunch of links (and the rpm thing... figure it out for yourself)... go look at the recommended torque specs for M14 x 1.5 stud & lug nuts (not ford) from industry and you'll see 90% are below, in some cases well below 150 ft lbs.... not mention stock studs are grade 8.8... have fun!
 
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Radiation Joe

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Wow!
I read the entire thread. A whole lot of dumb comments. In my humble opinion, the minority should take a class in critical thinking.
I'm not going to provide my opinion on this. My actions don't follow the logic. I've evaluated my decision on torque and am unconcerned with the value I chose. Others clearly don't comprehend the multiple factors that go into the torque specification or the material properties of studs.

However, I will offer a reserved thumbs-up for ugga dugga. There is significant colloquial support for that philosophy.
 

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mkcotton

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Slandering Ford.
Where you get that info?
They are 10.9.
Only time you ever see "8.8" mentioned regarding studs is in relation to an 8.8" differential, but not as the "grade" of the stud...
Ha slandering Ford, that's funny. They do a good enough job, they don't need me. And thank you for helping me understand the difference between inches and bolt grade... This is a tiresome thread... I've got thousands of $$$ in mods... I've replaced the stock studs with ARPs... because the stock studs are shit and they were stamped grade 8 when they came out of my wheel bearing assembly, attached to my half shaft, attached to my 8.8" diff. Slandering Ford... that's fucking funny. Have another beer!
 

luc

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Ha slandering Ford, that's funny. They do a good enough job, they don't need me. And thank you for helping me understand the difference between inches and bolt grade... This is a tiresome thread... I've got thousands of $$$ in mods... I've replaced the stock studs with ARPs... because the stock studs are shit and they were stamped grade 8 when they came out of my wheel bearing assembly, attached to my half shaft, attached to my 8.8" diff. Slandering Ford... that's fucking funny. Have another beer!
What would be your suggested torque for a 1/2”/12mm wheel studs ?
Same than a 14mm or less?
 

sigintel

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I've got thousands of $$$ in mods... I've replaced the stock studs with ARPs... because the stock studs are shit and they were stamped grade 8 when they came out of my wheel bearing assembly, attached to my half shaft, attached to my 8.8" diff.
Pics? Lets see your “stamped grade 8” studs.
They look like this?
Cause that aint grade 8.
1B0F1E27-A140-4D19-91BB-64BAE814D7B8.jpeg
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