What did you do to your Mach 1 today

[Zelek]

Haven't posted in a while but my Quickjack 5000TL is all set up but it says not to try to lift it without a car on it. I also did the ziptie caster wheel install on them so they are super simple to move around. No need to drill at all.

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[Mavtop]

By stock brakes I mean the pads and rotors. The brembo calipers are great.
But, when I’mtrying to slow it down from75-100mph it’s taking too long without really mashing the brakes.
its perfectly fine for street use, but I am going to need something grippier for the way I use this vehicle.
i was directed to Hawk DTC 30’s or to swap the pads on track day and back to street pads after the event.
the shop said rotors will wear down quickly so stick w the stock ones bc slotting and drilling dont do much but inflate the price. Of course mechanic has a ford discount so he gets the oem rotors for cheap.
My plan = use up the OE rotors and pads, move up to better pads and rotors as I use them up.

 

[Zelek]

By stock brakes I mean the pads and rotors. The brembo calipers are great.
But, when I’mtrying to slow it down from75-100mph it’s taking too long without really mashing the brakes.
its perfectly fine for street use, but I am going to need something grippier for the way I use this vehicle.
i was directed to Hawk DTC 30’s or to swap the pads on track day and back to street pads after the event.
the shop said rotors will wear down quickly so stick w the stock ones bc slotting and drilling dont do much but inflate the price. Of course mechanic has a ford discount so he gets the oem rotors for cheap.
My plan = use up the OE rotors and pads, move up to better pads and rotors as I use them up.

The stock pads worked well at the Track Attack with hard braking at high speeds. One of the first lessons they teach you at the drag strip is braking to feel ABS kick in and braking hard just right before it kicks in. You definitely have to brake really hard to stop and it is very effective when you do. I'm sure there are better pad options for the track and stainless steel lines and new brake fluid are a must if tracking.

All they do to the Mach 1's for those events are 5w-50 oil and race brake fluid along with a track alignment. Nothing else.

 

[Mavtop]

Yep already rocking the racing alignment. It feels much better than the street alignment for me.

 

[Sabre]

If you've never tracked before, as a novice your stock set up should be sufficient for how you'll be driving while learning at your first couple of track events. As you get better and faster, you'll use more braking force and that may require some additional brake upgrades. And of course, the type and particular track you are on, will make a difference too. I'd be a little cautious about switching back and forth from street pads to track pads and then back to street pads. Material from track pads left on the rotors, doesn't always play well with the material of street pads and could even diminish the effectiveness of your street pads. If your going to be dedicated to doing a few track events a year, I'd suggest investing in a dedicated set of rotors to go along with your track pads and switch them both out, when you go back to street driving. And remember that track pads need to be "bedded" into the rotors before going on track....you can Google about "bedding" pads and rotors....and check with the manufacturer of the track pads on how to bed them in, as it differs slightly from one to another. At some point, high temp brake fluid will be of value along with your stainless brake lines. Upgrading the brake cooling air deflector from stock to something from Steeda or Vorslag are both really good options to get more air to your rotors to keep them cool while using them hard on track. I'm a big proponent of Hawk pads for track use.....I use DTC 70's up front and DTC 60's in the rear. A lot of people get hooked on track driving after their first time, so don't be surprised if you do as well. Don't get hung up on times and speeds, compared to others or your buddies.....just go for the excitement and thrill of what your Mustang can do on track and be sure to take it home in the same condition you brought it in!

 

[Mavtop]

Thanks for the advice.
Im finally to a point in my life where i’ve got the resources to track my vehicles.

I did my track week at Bondurant a couple years ago after I got my ‘19 PP2 mustang. Now it is called Radford Racing.

With my Mach 1, I want it to be my dedicated track car, but still street legal enough to take for fun drives around AZ.

mechanic advised to start at Hawk DTC 30’s and work up from there.

 

[Sabre]

Thanks for the advice.
Im finally to a point in my life where i’ve got the resources to track my vehicles.

I did my track week at Bondurant a couple years ago after I got my ‘19 PP2 mustang. Now it is called Radford Racing.

With my Mach 1, I want it to be my dedicated track car, but still street legal enough to take for fun drives around AZ.

mechanic advised to start at Hawk DTC 30’s and work up from there.

Your mechanic is correct....the DTC 30 would be a good pad to start out with and work up from. The pads I use reflect my time and experience on track. Having a combination street and track car is completely doable. I use mine the same way, it only takes the knowledge of how to do it correctly. Have fun with lots of great track and highway miles ahead!!

 

[kellyreno]

By stock brakes do you mean brembo brakes? I would do a brake fluid bleed first to get some of that brake pressure. Stock pads and lines are more than enough on track unless you are above novice level.

Also, Hawk pads are known for eating wheel finishes and rotors so make sure you never let the brake dust sit for too long. If anything, I would recommend GLOC pads and get GS1 for street and R12 for track use. They can be used on the same rotor. Just my two cents

The instructors at FPRC said the M1 brakes are the best they have ever used?

 

[Biggsy]

The instructors at FPRC said the M1 brakes are the best they have ever used?

Not sure about that as I didn't attend but its the same set up on the Performance Package cars in which the calipers are more than enough and the pads and rotors are great for a novice level driver. The rotors are actually great at any level unless a person really wants to save weight and go with 2 piece.

 

[5.0 435]

finally got my center badge from Badge King. How the car should have come from the factory

Can’t find the web site for this product. Please help. Thx

 

[kellyreno]

Not sure about that as I didn't attend but its the same set up on the Performance Package cars in which the calipers are more than enough and the pads and rotors are great for a novice level driver. The rotors are actually great at any level unless a person really wants to save weight and go with 2 piece.

I could never figure out "Threshold Braking" so exiting the tri-oval at 120mph + heading towards the hairpin I just pushed them as hard as I could, worked every time.

 

[MX915]

Took her for the first ride in a few months and unfortunately traded her in. Great car, going to miss her. But when opportunity knocks you need to answer.....

 

[swoop1156]

Big unveiling soon, you all, soon!

 

[2021 Mach 1]

New steering wheel!

Love the forged carbon, very much debated that. Where did you get your steering wheel from?

 

[iceman145]

Can’t find the web site for this product. Please help. Thx

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