Vortech Bypass Valve Adjustment

[dsp4848]

So I just installed my Paxton kit w/ the Vortech bypass valve this weekend that I had purchased a few months back from another forum member on here. Everything started up great the first time. The thing I'm questioning is how the Vortech bypass valve works. What noises are normal for the Vortech bypass valve? I know that it vents extra boost when the throttle body is closed, but what about during just normal daily driving? The set screw on the bypass valve was backed out a good amount and air was coming out of the oval filter at idle. As I drove it around, it just sounds like a bunch of air rushing out of that thing and the throttle feels sluggish. Is this normal?

Last night I couldn't help but goof around with the set screw position. I screwed it in some more, but not enough so that air stopped coming out of the filter at idle. I think about 4 threads are showing after the nut and washer. It's quieter now when driving around, but flutters like crazy whenever I'm off of the gas. This is all driving around town at partial throttle since I haven't datalogged for Lund yet. Is this fluttering normal? And what position should the set screw on this Vortech bypass valve be set to?

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[spitfirecwp]

If you have run the vacuum lines properly you should always here air coming out until you get on the throttle, at which point the valve closes allowing boost. When you let off the throttle a big gust of air will come out. I have the upgraded valve, there is no fluttering with mine. I would double check your vacuum lines.

 

[dsp4848]

I doubled checked the vacuum lines and piping today after work and everything looks good. All of the vacuum hoses and the supplied check valve match exactly what the Paxton manual shows. No kinked hoses either. I do have the UPR catch can for Paxton/Vortech setup installed, but it looks to be hooked up correctly as well. The driver side valve cover connection goes to the first tee fitting, the passenger side PCV connection goes to the top of the catch can, and the side connection of the catch can goes to the intake manifold port with the arrow on the check valve facing towards the intake manifold.

I might take the bypass valve off tomorrow and inspect the insides of it to make sure something isn't broken. I loosened the adjustment nut back to where it was originally, which is what all the pictures online show (about 10 screw threads showing) and the fluttering stopped when decelerating. I can give it a decent amount of throttle (definitely not WOT though since I just datalogs off to Lund today) and all I hear it tons of air blowing out of the passenger side where the bypass valve is. There's just no power down low either. Pretty sure people are looking at me as I drive by wondering if my car is about to explode.

Attached are a few pictures. Anyone have any other suggestions?

 

[spitfirecwp]

There will always be a substantial amount of air going though at no/partial throttle. Once you get more onto the throttle you will see that the air stops coming out of the valve. Nothing will come out of the valve when giving the car full throttle until you let off the gas. I am still doing my datalogs also for lund, when you get the go ahead and do a WOT pull you will see brother. Lastly, I think the not much power down low is from the limited tune that you get sent out. When I did my first third gear pull from down low it felt weak but then spun the fuck out just before the 5k stop point on the limited tune. I am sure your car is fine.

 

[beefcake]

a bypass opens under vacuum, anytime you have vacuum, it will be open and you should hear it.

that will be at idle or very low rpms, or after a wot pull and you let off the throttle

 

[dsp4848]

Yeah mine stays open at pretty much any RPM at partial throttle. I gave it about 3/4 throttle this morning for a second and heard/felt it close. It was like a light switch turned on and there was boost all of a sudden. It just seems like it should be opening much sooner that it is. I'll double check the vacuum line going to the bypass valve just to make sure it's not leaking somewhere. If that line is leaking would that prevent the bypass valve from closing sooner?

 

[dubster99]

I switched to a Tial because I hated the stock bypass valve. It's going in tomorrow.

 

[dsp4848]

I switched to a Tial because I hated the stock bypass valve. It's going in tomorrow.

Yeah, I've thought about going that route. I heard the Tial isn't a direct replacement. Are you getting it welded on to that section of pipe?

 

[Jeff_oddo]

Yeah, I've thought about going that route. I heard the Tial isn't a direct replacement. Are you getting it welded on to that section of pipe?

Check JPC's website. They sell the modified charge pipe and Tial BOV.

 

[Demon Coyote]

Yeah, I've thought about going that route. I heard the Tial isn't a direct replacement. Are you getting it welded on to that section of pipe?

It isn't a direct replacement, you'll have to get the flange that comes with the Tial welded on your current charge pipe or as Jeff_oddo said above to check JPC's site for the charge pipe. I got mine welded on to same spot for about $40 lol.

Here's a link to what mine looks like after I got it welded:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BHYRRlFDeYY/

 

[dubster99]

I used a greddy to tial bolt on adapter because I'm lazy and didn't feel like pulling my bumper again, pulling that charge pipe and going to a welder.

 

[dsp4848]

Check JPC's website. They sell the modified charge pipe and Tial BOV.

Does the pipe listed on JPC's site include a Tial BOV? 399 seems a little steep just for a piece of piping.

It isn't a direct replacement, you'll have to get the flange that comes with the Tial welded on your current charge pipe or as Jeff_oddo said above to check JPC's site for the charge pipe. I got mine welded on to same spot for about $40 lol.

Here's a link to what mine looks like after I got it welded:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BHYRRlFDeYY/

Looks good!

 

[Jeff_oddo]

Does the pipe listed on JPC's site include a Tial BOV? 399 seems a little steep just for a piece of piping.



Looks good!

It's the whole kit... pipe and BOV

 

[dsp4848]

It's the whole kit... pipe and BOV

I might have to look into this then. Probably go with the quieter version.

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