Visor and homelink, dead??

[chadmclark]

Hey guys,

So the other day I noticed my homelink garage remote on the visor, stopped working. The vanity lights aren't on either.

The passenger vanity has power. Is there a fuse maybe, or? I know its direct battery power, not a coin type. Thanks!!

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[racer24crm]

A fuse has blown, did the same thing to mine when I was swapping the the bulb for an LED one in the glove box. Easy and cheap fix. here's a link to the thread which I started to fix it. http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15957

It's fuse 1 in the foot well on the passenger side. 10 amp micro fuse2. They have them on amazon or you can get them in a mix and match set at Pepboys for like 5 bucks.

 

[chadmclark]

A fuse has blown, did the same thing to mine when I was swapping the the bulb for an LED one in the glove box. Easy and cheap fix. here's a link to the thread which I started to fix it. http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15957

It's fuse 1 in the foot well on the passenger side. 10 amp micro fuse2. They have them on amazon or you can get them in a mix and match set at Pepboys for like 5 bucks.

So awesome, thank you for the reply!!!

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[chadmclark]

A fuse has blown, did the same thing to mine when I was swapping the the bulb for an LED one in the glove box. Easy and cheap fix. here's a link to the thread which I started to fix it. http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15957

It's fuse 1 in the foot well on the passenger side. 10 amp micro fuse2. They have them on amazon or you can get them in a mix and match set at Pepboys for like 5 bucks.

Damn, bought the fuses, changed em, no luck. Wonder what else it might be. Seems like no power to the whole thing (both bulbs and the remote).

I am due for an oil change from Ford ... Guess it would be covered under warranty. Thanks again!

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[CommyO]

If you haven't figured it out yet...
It's fuse #1 for the fuse box IN THE CAR by the passenger seat. The fuse is Micro2 5amp and you should be able to find it a O'Reilly for cheap. GL

 

[klousgt]

If you haven't figured it out yet...
It's fuse #1 for the fuse box IN THE CAR by the passenger seat. The fuse is Micro2 5amp and you should be able to find it a O'Reilly for cheap. GL

Manual says its a 10amp Micro2

 

[JimC]

Resurrecting an old thread - did a search and this came up. The same things just happened on my 2017 convertible. I tried the #1 fuse but when I pulled it out the passenger side visor vanity lights went out. Put it back and they came back on. So it isn't a bad #1 fuse.

Is there something different with the 2017 and the fuse for the driver side vanity light and home link?

 

[Elp_jc]

What does your owner's manual (or the fuse box index) say? It has to be a fuse IMO; you just have to find the right one. It should be a fuse on the passenger kick panel (inside the car). Good luck.

 

[JimC]

This is the listing for the 2017:

Fuse or relay number	Fuse amp rating	Protected components
1	10A	Demand lamps.
2	7.5A	Power mirror memory module.
3	20A	Driverconsole unlock.
4	-	Not used.
5	20A	Subwoofer amplifier.
6	-	Not used.
7	-	Not used.
8	-	Not used.
9	-	Not used.
10	-	Not used.
11	-	Not used.
12	7.5A	Climate control module.
13	7.5A	Gateway module. Steering column control module. Instrument cluster.
14	-	Not used.
15	10A	Gateway module.
16	15A	Decklid release.
17	5A	Not used (spare).
18	5A	Intrusion sensor module.
19	7.5A	Passenger airbag deactivation indicator.
20	-	Not used.
21	5A	In-vehicle temperature and humidity sensor.
22	5A	Occupant classification system module.
23	10A	Switches. Power windows. Rear-view mirror.
24	20A	Central lock unlock.
25	30A	Magneride.
26	30A	Right-hand front-window motor.
27	30A	Amplifier.
28	20A	Auxiliary body module.
29	30A	Left-hand rear-window power.
30	30A	Right-hand rear-window power.
31	-	Not used.
32	10A	Remote keyless entry. Multi-function display. SYNC. Global positioning system module. Gauges.
33	20A	Audio head unit.
34	30A	Run-start bus.
35	5A	Restraints control module.
36	15A	Auxiliary body module.
37	20A	Power distribution box run-start bus.
—	30A	Not used (spare).

 

[JimC]

Since it isn't fuse #1 on my car, any thoughts on what fuse it could be from that list?

 

[Bikeman315]

Since it isn't fuse #1 on my car, any thoughts on what fuse it could be from that list?

If the #1 fuse works both visors (a reasonable deduction) and you know the fuse works, then it’s not a fuse. Check for a connection issue. Also check the wiring.

This might help.

 

[JimC]

I replaced the visor today, got a pretty good deal off Ebay on a pair of visors. If anyone needs a passenger side let me know!

I'm not sure why the guy in that video took 2 hours to remove the first cap. That was pretty easy I thought. The metal clip - not so easy. It ended up in the header still and took forever to fish it back out. I finally put tape on my finger so it would stick to my finger. The hole is too small to get more than one finger in.

After finally getting it out I noticed the clips on top were bent. Forged ahead and got everything installed, put the metal clip back in and when I tried to seat the plastic cap -- the clip broke (parts are now somewhere in the A pillar).

The Ford dealer had the clip in stock, for $5.27. If you ever have to replace the visor just get the clip ahead of time because it is very likely you will break or lose it.

Here is the part number:

And the clip that is a problem

All set now, HomeLink programmed again and working, along with vanity lights.

 

[Elp_jc]

Glad you resolved the issue with a new visor. If not the fuse, it had to be the wiring, or the visor.

Hey, a related question: When you move your driver's visor to the side, does it have some resistance to it? My stupid visor moves with no friction, so it doesn't stay on the side. After spending hours to remove and put the damn thing back after removing the airbag labels and installing LEDs, I don't want to ever remove them again. Ha ha. But wondering if all are like that, or just my car. Will scrutinize it and see if I can shove something up the shaft to cause some friction, so it stays in place. Oh, but the damn thing is hard as hell to pull down; go figure.

 

[JimC]

Both my original and the replacement have resistance when I move it to the side. And stays in place when I set it.

Did you put a new clip in when you re-installed it?

 

[Elp_jc]

No, but it was like that before I removed it. And same thing with how hard it was to move down... but that is getting better. Besides, that clip has nothing to do with the friction of the visor shaft, for what I remember. But forgot to scrutinize it when it was removed, to see if I could do something about it. Oh well; I'm not removing it again. Ha ha. Will see if I can do something while it's in place.

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