Stainless Power 1 7/8 Headers Unboxing

[Jeff's FRC]

Step by step picture install?

This should help you a bit
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[Rob_Stylez]

That will include me pressing start, driving to Truestreet in McKinney, handing them my keys and going home to drink a beer . I thought about it and thought about it again but I think I am going to cower out and let the pro's handle it. If it wasn't me alone doing it I would rethink. Sooooo who wants to make $200?


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Are they charging you $200 for install?

 

[MyLilPony]

I wish! I was saying if someone wanted to help me, I'd toss them $200 and provide lunch/beer


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[beefcake]

just got in another batch today, I have on perf connect and the rest factory connect ready to ship same day!

 

[sldghmr]

I put mine on last week... not too bad. Did it by myself, probably spent a total of 12hrs on it (worked nights after I got off). No lift just 4 jackstands in a garage.

Tips: Car does not need to be up REAL high. If you can roll over under the car, that should be plenty room. Don't remove the cowl, but you will need to loosen enough to get to the back bolts for the battery box compartment wall. Taking that wall piece out will help A TON!!! Don't sweat separating the pass side factory exhaust, unclip the upper O2 sensor at the back of the valve cover, remove both rear O2 sensors (before loosening the exhaust). I left the very top (both front and back) factory studs in to help hold the gasket and the headers (on both pass & driver sides). Definitely run a new bolt into each hole to clean threads, will make putting them in when the LT's are there soooooooo much better. Remove upper brace for lifting engine up (what's that crunching sound?? DOH!)

 

[MyLilPony]

I put mine on last week... not too bad. Did it by myself, probably spent a total of 12hrs on it (worked nights after I got off). No lift just 4 jackstands in a garage.

Tips: Car does not need to be up REAL high. If you can roll over under the car, that should be plenty room. Don't remove the cowl, but you will need to loosen enough to get to the back bolts for the battery box compartment wall. Taking that wall piece out will help A TON!!! Don't sweat separating the pass side factory exhaust, unclip the upper O2 sensor at the back of the valve cover, remove both rear O2 sensors (before loosening the exhaust). I left the very top (both front and back) factory studs in to help hold the gasket and the headers (on both pass & driver sides). Definitely run a new bolt into each hole to clean threads, will make putting them in when the LT's are there soooooooo much better. Remove upper brace for lifting engine up (what's that crunching sound?? DOH!)

Did you take the starter off? How about the motor mounts? I am sure you did, seems like it's a have too do kinda thing. Those are really the only parts that makes me nervous. Not sure why, I have ripped and replace many a motors. But never on a brand new 40k car...

I did my own springs on this car and I don't think it is much harder just more tedious.


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[SynisterGT]

Difference between SP and SW?

 

[beefcake]

sw made here, sp made overseas, 2 year vs lifetime warranty

same pattern, 304 stainless on both

same lead pipes on both

 

[Thelopez]

For sure would like to know extra gain with these on before and after if possible. Deciding to get these lol

 

[beefcake]

bazillion header threads out the 20-35 depending on dyno, other mods, car , trans, etc...

headers aren't just for power, for sound as well

 

[MyLilPony]

I am looking forward to a few more pony's but Catless SP's with my Borla Atak should burst ear's, and that is what I am really looking forward to

Oh I will be cutting off the factory connect choke downs on both the Atak and header pipes and having a 3 to 2.5 adaptor made.

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[sldghmr]

Did you take the starter off? How about the motor mounts? I am sure you did, seems like it's a have too do kinda thing. Those are really the only parts that makes me nervous. Not sure why, I have ripped and replace many a motors. But never on a brand new 40k car...

I did my own springs on this car and I don't think it is much harder just more tedious.


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Yeah, starter and motor mounts come out. I was a little worried at first also, but as long as battery is removed you don't have to worry about shorting anything. Starter top bolt trick: Look at starter thru wheel well to guide 1/4" rachet onto bolt. Oh yeah, I pulled both front tires off and took inner fender liners down 1/2 way....each motor mount has 4 bolts attaching it to the engine (they're all 13mm), top nut of motor mount is 15mm. Brave person could undo both motor mounts at same time and just jack engine up once...I was afraid that I would not be able to line it back up by myself, so just did one side at a time.

 

[dubster99]

Thanks for the tricks...I'll be doing this in a week and a half. I'm going to try and reuse all the factory studs to hang the header on. Drivers side looks like cake. Passenger side is cramped.

 

[Super Werty]

anyone coat their headers yet? or wrap?

 

[Demon Coyote]

Any videos of what this setup sounds like?

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