Plumbing/ this hard job?

[FreePenguin]

Zero water issues, water isn’t getting as high as it did. And it was pretty bad storms. I bought a 1.25 inch long shop vac wand and I reaches all way to the bottom of the hole if I ever need to suck out crap.

think Itl do just fine. Only downfall is I can’t stick finges in hole to feel around bottomof my make shift pvc/rubber creation to feel 100% that it’s blocked the hole up. Pretty positive it did though.

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[FreePenguin]

Zero water issues, water isn’t getting as high as it did. And it was pretty bad storms. I bought a 1.25 inch long shop vac wand and I reaches all way to the bottom of the hole if I ever need to suck out crap.

think Itl do just fine. Only downfall is I can’t stick finges in hole to feel around bottomof my make shift pvc/rubber creation to feel 100% that it’s blocked the hole up. Pretty positive it did though.

I will wait a month and try and suck out the hole, if there’s no rocks, the block off worked

 

[emcmtony]

Don't fuck with water. If it looks like that there then imagine what the rest of it looks like that has had water standing in it for however many years. Have a plumber come with a snake camera and get a good look at what the pipe looks like all the way out to the main drain near the street. If it looks good, bandaid the part you see. If it is bad, get it replaced. It will end up biting you later if you don't do it right.

 

[FreePenguin]

I had another theory about this. The drain is near my doggy door. It was -25* for weeks. And storms.

I think, the water was already balls cold, from the outside drain connecting, but if the dogdoor flap got left open, happens due to magnetic, that the cold air could of froze the water sitting on top of that pipe as well. It’s like 3 feet from the dog door flapper. Freezing the top of the sitting waterbusting that pipe.

 

[Falconetti]

looks like the trap primer fitting, so to do the right thing the wrong way you might try to patch it up and if that is in fact a trap primer, which that floor drain should have been required to have, just don't seal that up or you will create other problems. There are 2 recommended ways to do this and I prefer option one but it is usually more expensive. Option 1 is to tunnel from the outside of the house and access the lines and make repairs. In our area that will require an inspection and an engineering report. Option 2 keeps everyone out of your business and that is chipping up the concrete, cutting rebar, digging and repairing from above, then you get to remodel your utility room, or redo the floor at least. This is assuming this is a ground floor and it is in fact broken, which it looks like it is.

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