Oil Filter Base Plate Holes for high RPM Coyote Engines

[John S]

Without getting into the endless debate of what oil filter is "the best," does the inner profile of the base plate (convex vs concave) and size/number of the feed holes have any significant impact on the actual oil pressure and flow reaching the engine's critical bearings? The attached images show the small OEM filter with seven oval inlet holes, the large diameter Ford Performance filter with eight holes, and Fram's latest premium oil filter with six small holes. Mach 1s are limited to the small diameter OEM style filter housing and the Fram option seems like it could cause flow concerns? It seems like the various OEM's that use the same aftermarket replacement filters have no control over the designs. I don't have the background to understand the engine's oil pump outlet compared to the filter inlet and outlet area differences or the characteristics of oil pressure and velocity flowing through the filter media. Anyone that can shed further insight or a link to an objective explanation of what's best for a high revving Coyote engine is appreciated.

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[luca1290]

The tiny holes in the FRAM filter for me are more than enough for tossing it into the bin.

At the same pressure, more holes = more flow.

 

[offroadkarter]

The tiny holes in the FRAM filter for me are more than enough for tossing it into the bin.

At the same pressure, more holes = more flow.

counter point - the Fram has a much higher quality and better filtering synthetic media over the FL500s. Some BITOG members have opened FL500s filters to find the filter media torn or collapsed as well.

More to an oil filter than "da holes"


I run the same Fram on my 16 GT and have never noticed any pressure anomalies versus when I ran the FL500s.

 

[Kabayo]

counter point - the Fram has a much higher quality and better filtering synthetic media over the FL500s. Some BITOG members have opened FL500s filters to find the filter media torn or collapsed as well.

More to an oil filter than "da holes"


I run the same Fram on my 16 GT and have never noticed any pressure anomalies versus when I ran the FL500s.

Any premium filter like Mobil 1 or K&N is plenty good. I would stay away from Fram…I believe their inner base and cover plate is cardboard. Cut a used one up and see for your self.

 

[offroadkarter]

Any premium filter like Mobil 1 or K&N is plenty good. I would stay away from Fram…I believe their inner base and cover plate is cardboard. Cut a used one up and see for your self.

Okay, done!

 

[Skye]

With these three filters, I'm not sure it's an apples-to-apples-to-apples comparison.

Stock filter: meets specifications.

FP filter: purpose-built for high-flow, demanding environments associated with racing or spirited driving.

Fram: the specific model referenced is designed for extended service oil changes.

Regarding Fram filters, they make a wide range, from the "orange cans of death", associated with cardboard and collapsed media, to the Titanium and others, which use metal and wire-backed synthetic media. Some are marketed as "high-flow", have more physical holes (some uniquely-shaped). Some are sold as "endurance" types, as mentioned above.

For any oil filter, I'd encourage anyone to read up on the latest comparisons and disassembly videos. For a laugh, some are better (more scientific and standards based) than others. As an example of the latter, "We attempted to capture three pounds of metal shavings with this filter and it couldn't handle it! The latest example of why you should never buy this brand!" You get the idea.

Oil filters are like car models: companies are making updates to their designs all the time. Some of those updates and changes are good. Some not. And the manufacturing locations or tolerances of quality can also change, good and bad. The same filter design that led you to that vendor three to five years ago might not be the same design (or materials) today.

YMMV.

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