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Mach 1 - Fog light install

Geofferstang

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Following on from my post in “What did you do to your Mach 1 today” I thought that I would do a standalone post for my fog light installation. It’s not a comprehensive walkthrough but I wanted to bring together what I have learnt recently around installing fogs to the Mach 1. This is based on a 2022 UK spec / RHD so other markets may vary. As ever, make sure you follow local regs / understand what you are doing / be careful - I am not responsible for what you do.

Key parameters for me were: -
  • Make it look OEM if possible.
  • Get some round fog lights in the grille aperture.
  • Make it reversable as much as possible so I could revert to stock if needed.
To make it OEM, I wanted to utilise the factory (GT) light switch with fog light option, and I wanted to have an indicator (ideally the stock dash indicator).

Firstly, a couple of pictures of the finished item.
Amber_Fog.jpg

White_Fog.jpg


And dashboard showing indicators for lights, front fog and rear fog.

Dash.jpg


The fogs I used are these: -

Lights.JPG

Linked: -

Amazon Link to fogs

(Mods, no affiliation on this but remove if I have overstepped).

They can show White or Amber and as these are fogs, I have them mounted upside down so that the area with three straight LEDs lines up with the flat spot on the top of the grille aperture. These are not high power (consume about 0.56 amp per lamp per colour) so happy to wire to the BCM with a DPDT switch to either output white or amber.

These are mounted in rings that I designed and printed in ABS.

Custom Rings.JPG
Custom Rings 2.JPG

These can be freely downloaded here: -

Thingiverse link

Positive cables from the fog lights are lead back too the footwell (where the BCM is) and the grounds are shared at an appropriate ground point in the engine bay.

Parts needed

  • Fog lights (of course!) and appropriate wiring extensions / connectors etc.
  • 2018+ GT headlight switch with front + rear fog light switches (DG9T-13D061-FE3JA6)
  • 2 x BCM pigtail cables (BU5T-14474-UA). This cable can be found in Ford Kit Part number = DU2Z-14474-DA (this is what I ordered from my Ford parts dealer at £5.95 each). I believe that this is also in Motorcraft = WT-1003 / Ford Terminal PN = 7U5T-14474-UA. It is a 1.5mm2 silver connector. NOTE you will need 2 connectors and on ebay they are often shown as a pack of 5, however CHECK with the vendor as it’s often the case that these are individual cables.
  • Forscan on a laptop
  • Appropriate OBD11 cable


How it works.

NOTE BEFORE DOING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY....

In the S550 Mustang, the fog light switch provides a momentary 3.3V or 3.5V signal to the BCM to toggle the fog lights. It’s not latching at the switch so looking to use the front fog wire from the switch via a TTL level relay starts to get complicated.
This signal is sent through the Grey wire from pin 14 on the light switch to pin 20 on plug C2280B on the BCM. As the Grey wire is present in the Mach 1 it’s just a simple case of removing the lower trim panel: -

Trim.jpg
Light Trim.jpg

Then the bolt / upper trim panel with the light switch in and then swapping the light switches (my new one in place above). Your new light switch can now send a front fog signal to the BCM!

light switch.jpg


However, the cables from the BCM to the front fogs that exist in the GT are missing from the Mach 1 so we need to add these in (the pins in the socket on the BCM are present so its cabling that that needs sorting).

The front fog BCM 12V output is presented at socket J7 on the bottom of the BCM that plug C2280G plugs into.

BCM J7a.jpg


Luckily this is the plug at the very bottom of the BCM, nearest to the firewall – so the easiest to access (which is great if you have a RHD mustang as it gets crowded down there with the pedals!). Probably easier on a LHD model...


2280G output.jpg
C2280G_Plug.jpg


IMPORTANT NOTE – Disconnect the battery before playing around with the BCM. As well as Fog lights the plug also carries CANBUS signals!

To get access to this power you need to insert the two pigtails into pin sockets 12 (left fog) and 5 (right fog) into the plug CC2280G.

C2280G_Pins.jpg


Remove the plug from the BCM.
Unclip and remove the red alignment guide.

C2280G_RedCover.jpg


With the white latch upright, unclip the back of the plug and move out of the way.

C2280G_back removal.jpg


Insert the two pigtails form the back in positions 12 and 5 and put the plug back together (assembly is reverse of disassembly). Plug back into the BCM.

There is a video here of re-pining the plug that also helps understand what's going on here (from 4:04 onwards): -

YouTube link

Once programmed these will give you 12V for front left and front right fogs on the appropriate pigtails. I am not sure of the maximum current the BCM can output for the fogs (I guess around 1- 1.5 amps?) so if you are installing some high wattage lights then you can probably use these to power a relay as appropriate.


Programming

Once the wiring has been completed and you are happy that there are no shorts and that the connectors / crimps etc. are tight then its on to the programming. I’ll not cover details of Forscan as there a number of tutorials for this out there.

You will need a laptop, OBDII cable and a registered copy of Forscan (https://forscan.org/)

IMPORTANT

Reconnect the battery - Make sure your battery is fully charged in the car and the laptop (probably best to plug both into a charger whilst doing this). Writing data to a module when your car is at low voltage can risk damage / bricking the module!

Only write one parameter change at a time, even within the same module!

It's not difficult if you are methodical but readup / watch videos on this as mistakes can be expensive.

Connect your car to Forscan. You’ll need to make the following changes: -

Select and "play" the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) and update the "Front fog lamps" parameter to "Enabled" – this will enable the display.

Screenshot 2024-05-07 175402.png


Screenshot 2024-05-07 175449.png


Once that is done and written "stop" the IPC module

Select and "play" the BdyCM (Body Control Module)

Screenshot 2024-05-07 175601.png


Filter on fog

Write the following: -

Front fog lamps – update to Enable

Right Front Fog Lamp Usage – set to Fog Only

Left Front Fog Lamp Usage - set to Fog Only

Screenshot 2024-05-07 175655.png


Note, you can probably tweak other options for the Left and right front fogs however you need to ensure that "Front fog lamps" is Enabled and Left and Right are not set to “Not Used” to get 12V from the BCM pigtails.

Screenshot 2024-05-07 175811.png


Once done and written, "stop" the BCM connection and disconnect Forscan from the car remove the OBDII cables etc...

Hope this helps someone on the journey to filling those blanking plates, let me know if this is useful at all....
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Mikepol2

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Spectacular! What a great resource and well done.
 

Rael

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Not to take anything away from your truly wonderful write-up, but when you have a moment, could you also post a picture of the front grille with the lights off?
Thank you!
 

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Geofferstang

Geofferstang

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Also made it easier to design the mounts with the flat of the fog light bracket mount aligning to the flat spot on the top of the aperture, so a double win....
 

RTFM

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Totally in awe!
Were you able to do this without removing the front bumper?
Also, is the electric install protected by the fuse box?
 

Skye

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Thank You :clap: for the detailed post of this project. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
 
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Geofferstang

Geofferstang

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Totally in awe!
Were you able to do this without removing the front bumper?
Also, is the electric install protected by the fuse box?
Hi RTFM,
Front bumper has to come off as you need to get to the back of the grille. Honestly I was dreading it but it's not too tricky, just lots of bolts / screws / clips so take your time. As I don't have the additional chin spoiler there were no rivets to drill out (and if I do get that, I'll probably install with rivnuts rather than plastic rivets).

The BCM output is protected by a FET. As I understand it the output loads (current level) are monitored for excessive current, typically short circuits, and are shut down (turns off the voltage provided by the module) when a fault event is detected. After a large number of such events it may permanently disable the output. After my install I cycled through the lights and checked for BCM DTCs and there weren't any, but I'll keep an eye out on it.
I did search the wiring diagrams and there is no fog light fuse I can find so it should be protected by the FET, having said that I still wired in an in-line 1 amp fuse to each pigtail before my "Amber / White" switch just to add a little more protection (they are pretty cheap lights 😁).
 
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RTFM

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Thanks for the extra clarifications. You really solved it all. Respect 🙏
I don’t know if I’ll ever get the bravery to remove the front bumper, but I’ll start collecting all the pieces. The Biqing lights look like the hardest part to source here in the US. Or I’ll get some college student to draw new CADs based on yours.
Thank you so much!
 

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Prodigal

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Spectacular! What a great resource and well done.
100% agree. Now, how much for you to come over next weekend and install a set on my car? 0% chance I can successfully pull off all that install without losing my mind and / or frying something in my car permanently.
 
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Geofferstang

Geofferstang

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Thank you for this write up. I love how you kept as many OEM pieces as you did.
I was actually inspired by Boyd in this thread: -

Fog light wiring

Just filled in some blanks around the connector / pins / forscan...

As Newton said, “If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants”
 

sakman84

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A true service to the community, this should be stickied by the mods.

THANK YOU!
 

Rael

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Thank you, Geoff.
You are immensely talented.
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