Looking for more snap off the line

[VooDooDaddy]

This car has the A10, a Circle D converter, and 3.15 rear gears.

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[2018Creamsicle]

Wow. 14 replies. You guys definitely covered the gamut on options. I’ve been on another mustang forum for years and wouldn’t have gotten 14 responses in a month. I guess I should have said what my end goal is, though. I’m not looking to be competitive on the track. I might run it on a run what you brung day at the track sometime, but my main goal is the butt dyno. I just want to feel that hard hit off the line. Just sold my 2016 tuned and modded SHO and the 2012 coupe to make the vert happen for the wife. My SHO was a beast and would claw off the line putting the power down whenever you wanted it, even in rain. On the dry it would spin all 4 tires and you’d get a hard chirp between 1-2 and 2-3 shift.

I’m not looking to go too crazy YET. Lol. Sounds like a flex fuel tune would be the best place to start. Would really like to get all the softness out where you can leave nannies intact but dial them way back. The tune I had in the SHO was sweet. It allowed just enough wheelspin and slide to just be fun but not so much you could wrap it around a tree. Then start looking at a lower rear end. I like the idea of just swapping the whole housing complete so there’s no gear setup, and I’d get the stronger iron case with the 3.55. Probably will look into torque converter after that. Forced induction isn’t off the table. Just need to recover a little from buying cars first. That ford performance/ Roush looks pretty cool with 700 HP. Also afraid of the can of worms a supercharger will open when it exposes all the other weaknesses which make the checkbook cry.

Where’s the best place to get a Flex fuel tune? Been reading about Lund, Bama, palm beach something, pmas? Just so many options.

 

[VooDooDaddy]

...Then start looking at a lower rear end. I like the idea of just swapping the whole housing complete so there’s no gear setup, and I’d get the stronger iron case with the 3.55. Probably will look into torque converter after that.

NO....!

Do the torque converter first. The first two forward gears in the A10 are almost useless on the street, even with 3.15's out back. What you want is to get the engine further into its powerband upon launch, which is exactly what a higher stall speed converter will accomplish. This will ultimately make the car more "snappy" off the line, but you will still get a great cruising rpm and great gas mileage by keeping the 3.15 gears.

It will be the best of both worlds.

Then do the following:

1. Bolt on a set of MAK cat deletes
2. Get a LUND Flex-Fuel tune

DONE

Watch the video I posted above (car has 3.15 rear gears) and tell me that car isn't getting it done!

 

[Kermitz]

E85 tune, high flow panel filter and remove carbon trap in stock airbox, Velossa Tech and stop the hop kit. Just about $1K and you're going to be all smiles.

 

[w3rkn]

Use second gear....

 

[2018Creamsicle]

That video is pretty awesome on the high stall converter. Would love to get a ride in a car that had one. Seen a few drag racing cars with converters set up that way. My only concern would be killing the street drivability. Don’t have any personal experience, though. Just guessing it might be a little high strung on the street. Think I’m gonna start with a flex fuel tune. Just have to figure out which one to go with...

 

[DLVRYMN]

I know this question has been asked 1000 times before, but I’d just like some guidance from people who have been there. My head is about to explode after reading 100 different threads about options for getting a little harder launch. I’m coming from a 2012 3.73 manual 5.0 into a 2018 A10 3.15 vert. The old car had a lot harder initial hit from a stop, and I’m trying to figure out the best mods to wake up the 2018. Don’t get me wrong—It’s plenty quick after it gets some revs built, but it feels like a dog off the line, and I’ve tried power braking, different drive modes, disabling traction and stability control, etc, and it still seems to fall on its face for a second or so before it starts running like hell. I’ve read about 3.55 gear swaps, Flex fuel tunes, etc. I’m wondering how much of this is due to the 3.15 and how much is just torque management. I know the A10 is generally quicker than the 6MT on paper, but I’m really missing my manual.

Any tips on what I’m doing wrong or what I need to do to feel some more push in the seat?

I own a 2018 Premium and added the Performance Pack Rear Toe Link Kit along with the Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly. With that mod alone in nearly identical weather I picked up over a tenth and a half in 60'. I'm running Mickey Thompson Street SS tires and they work for me. My car was originally a 3:55 gear car and I replaced them with Ford Performance 4:09s. Once again under very similar weather I picked up 3mph and dropped 3 tenths. Stock exhaust except for a STEEDA H Pipe. The car has run a best of11.24 at 124.83 1.721 60'ft 98.71 in the eighth. Car has a Roush Enclosed Air intake with a Palm Beach Dyno Tune for E85.

 

[macrosssaga]

I know this question has been asked 1000 times before, but I’d just like some guidance from people who have been there. My head is about to explode after reading 100 different threads about options for getting a little harder launch. I’m coming from a 2012 3.73 manual 5.0 into a 2018 A10 3.15 vert. The old car had a lot harder initial hit from a stop, and I’m trying to figure out the best mods to wake up the 2018. Don’t get me wrong—It’s plenty quick after it gets some revs built, but it feels like a dog off the line, and I’ve tried power braking, different drive modes, disabling traction and stability control, etc, and it still seems to fall on its face for a second or so before it starts running like hell. I’ve read about 3.55 gear swaps, Flex fuel tunes, etc. I’m wondering how much of this is due to the 3.15 and how much is just torque management. I know the A10 is generally quicker than the 6MT on paper, but I’m really missing my manual.

Any tips on what I’m doing wrong or what I need to do to feel some more push in the seat?

I had the same thoughts when I got my 2018 GT A10.
My 2012 A6 would roast the tires from a dead stop, but my 2018 stumbles when I hammer it.
The dude from Lund who tuned it says it goes into Transmission Protection Mode when floored from a dead stop, and the only way around it is to pull the dyne plug and foot brake it.
Oh well, I'll save money on tires...

 

[2018Creamsicle]

I had the same thoughts when I got my 2018 GT A10.
My 2012 A6 would roast the tires from a dead stop, but my 2018 stumbles when I hammer it.
The dude from Lund who tuned it says it goes into Transmission Protection Mode when floored from a dead stop, and the only way around it is to pull the dyne plug and foot brake it.
Oh well, I'll save money on tires...

So it still does it tuned? That really sucks. I figured a tuner would really wake these up. My sho was a dog off the line too stock, and it clawed off the line with all 4 tires spinning once I tuned it.

 

[Flat Stanely]

It may not feel as snappy but its definitely quicker off the line than your 2012 manual....just neutral bomb it...rev to about 6k and drop it into drive haha

Jk dont do that. Better converter, tune and maybe exhaust to hear the car working and add to the experience.

 

[FruityJudy]

Just ran across this. Looks like it has some "snap off the line"

 

[macrosssaga]

Just ran across this. Looks like it has some "snap off the line"

Foot braked at launch

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