xXANCHORMONXx
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Just finished my first trackday at Laguna this past weekend and it went very well. Weather was perfect and the car handled very well.
Last minute I made a set of Laguna Pipes to help pass sound.
My criteria:
- Cheap, just to see if the concept would work.
- Easy to remove.
- Dosesnt ruin the oem exhaust.
- Won't set my bumper on fire.
I bought a 90 pre bent 2.5" from my local store along with a 45. One end is flared which makes install easy. I put it on the inner tips and drilled a hole through the new pipes and the oem exhaust. I then put in a SS retaining pin through the assembly with a cotter pin on the end. I had some DEI Ti wrap hanging around so I wrapped the tips up to help with heat. Other than a total of 4 holes in the real exhaust tips which are hard to see, this is fully reversible.
I went the whole day going WOT past the sound tower and only got flagged once. That one time is when I had a passenger so perhaps the extra load made a difference. They said I blew a 95db which is not bad at all.
Thanks to "Trackaholic"s advice I put the car in track mode but set the exhaust to normal which helped a lot.
Please excuse the piss quality video. I've been struggling to overlay Harrys Laptimer onto my GoPro footage and so this is really all I have.
Here's some good footage but no overlay. The car in front of me is a Carrera S which is owned by a friend of mine. He has over 150 trackdays at Laguna and really knows his stuff, best part is that he's in his 60s!
The video shows a 1:44, on my last session however I was able to do a 1:42-1:43 after some instruction on my lines. I have a ton of seat time at Thunderhill and Buttonwillow but other than Forza I've never been to Laguna before this past Sunday.
The track is very technical and very hard on the car and driver. Once you get into the rhythm, it becomes very rewarding.
My new motor has around 700 miles on it and is very healthy. It is definitely stronger than my first motor and also has not burnt any oil.
I found the oem splitter to scrape on the cork screw and on the dip in turn 6. Anyone who tracks their car and is looking to get the "Ford Racing" springs are nuts. This track will absolutely destroy your car if its nay lower than a R.
My RE71Rs got torn up pretty good and will more than likely be replaced along with going up from 2.5 degrees camber up front to 2.75 or 3 degrees. I am looking to get Hoosier R7s in 315/35/19 and running a square setup.
My testing of the consumer version of the AP Racing GT350S kit is also going very well. Brakes are just a non issue at this point. I had the Ferodo DSUNO up front with the Ferodo DS1.11 out back. Turn after turn I had zero fade, on a few laps I broke far too late and they stayed solid throughout. I have perfect wear on all four corners with no build up.
Even swapping back and forth to the Ferodo DS2500 for the street has given me no trouble at all.
Heres a quick video over the corkscrew that my buddy took.
BMR sway bars
BMR cradle lockout
BMR LCA bearing
BMR toe links
BMR vertical links
BMR end links
Ford racing toe bearing
GT350R springs
Steeda Adjustable Camber Arm
Steeda Billet Shock Mounts
JM camber plates
SPL camber bolts
MGW shifter
AP BBK Kit
Ferodo DSUNO pads
Ferodo DS1.11 rear pads
Speigler SS brake lines
Torque RT700
Volk Racing TE37 19x10.5
Bridgestone RE71R 305/30/19
Resonator delete
Zl1 tow hooks
Amsoil air intake filter
Amsoil Oil, Trans and Diff Fluid
Ford racing catch cans
Custom Alignment
Nice picture of the whole towing setup.
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