Knocking Noise - Video included

[phunk]

This is terrible news and scary for all of us.

There is nothing cool about it. But you could always pretend its a blessing in disguise. If you havent already seen it: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6009-a50na

$4900 shipped and you have a short block already assembled and ready for probably 1000hp. Pick up some good headstuds and gaskets and swap over your heads. Should be able to get $1000 back from your stock block casting if it hasnt taken any damage yet. That should cover most of the hidden parts costs (chains, tensioners, guides, etc.)

At least, this is my planned route for the next year - sooner if I find myself in a similar situation.

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[paul123]

How many miles you get on the car before the S/C ?

 

[Jon B.]

This is terrible news and scary for all of us.

There is nothing cool about it. But you could always pretend its a blessing in disguise. If you havent already seen it: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6009-a50na

$4900 shipped and you have a short block already assembled and ready for probably 1000hp. Pick up some good headstuds and gaskets and swap over your heads. Should be able to get $1000 back from your stock block casting if it hasnt taken any damage yet. That should cover most of the hidden parts costs (chains, tensioners, guides, etc.)

At least, this is my planned route for the next year - sooner if I find myself in a similar situation.

Not a bad deal, but I'd look for something that has a warranty that doesn't confine you to installation at a dealer.

 

[phunk]

Not a bad deal, but I'd look for something that has a warranty that doesn't confine you to installation at a dealer.

I guess it depends on the long term goals.

If someone were putting in a forged short block with the intentions of cranking it up to 800-1000hp, i dont know if anyone at all is going to warranty it any further than their shop doors.

Anyone can purchase and install the ford racing short blocks, no dealers required. Just order from your vendor of choice and install wherever you wish.

 

[daniel_94kg]

How many miles you get on the car before the S/C ?

About 22k

 

[evo8904]

Sorry to hear about your engine OP. It just the risk that we take when chasing more power. I had an engine go on me before. My belief is that if it breaks, that gives me a reason to upgrade. I would get a build engine, P&P heads with cams

 

[daniel_94kg]

Here's a little bit better pic of some metal shavings that came out. These came out of the oil filter.

 

[evo8904]

Yeah bro, metal in oil like that is never a good sign.

But, this looks good http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP750103

 

[olaosunt]

I feel your pain bro.
I have lost 3 of these motors on boost including an alluminator in my 12.
In my opinion anyone boosting these engines stock should have plans for a build .

I had already bought the parts to build the stock block I replaced in my Hellion car .
Just needed machining and assembly .
I was hoping to take the stock block out of my on3 car intact so I could may be get something for it .
I thought the stock block would hold up to low 800's the on3 TT was making as it has on some other cars.
Mine lost oil pressure but does not seem to the OPG per my tech.
It was making noise to yours before I shut it down
Fortunately still able to trade it as is so going to cut my losses this time .
I sent you a pm about my parts but a buddy just scooped it up for my cost -
He will get the block free

 

[Gibbo205]

Hi there


That noise is rod bearing knock, but I'd say you got lucky as in your video with some revs the knock softens and gets quieter which means you still have oil pressure.

If you'd spun a bearing completely it would be stuck on the crank and you'd have no oil pressure. STOP RUNNING THE CAR!

You could get very lucky and all you will need is now bearing shells and sump gasket. If the case I'd advice coated shells and uprated ARP bolts if your considering revving to 7k and over whilst boosted.

It has either being caused by the oil pump not supplying enough oil due to OPG failure or the RPM was too high, engine too hot and as such oil viscosity too thin causing the shells to wear which is what your seeing in the oil with the silver/copper glittery metal flakes.

Hopefully you caused no damage to the crank and a new set of shells and some labour will see you back on the road. I'd also be uprading the oil to a decent 5W-30.

Best of luck with it!

 

[daniel_94kg]

I feel your pain bro.
I have lost 3 of these motors on boost including an alluminator in my 12.
In my opinion anyone boosting these engines stock should have plans for a build .

I had already bought the parts to build the stock block I replaced in my Hellion car .
Just needed machining and assembly .
I was hoping to take the stock block out of my on3 car intact so I could may be get something for it .
I thought the stock block would hold up to low 800's the on3 TT was making as it has on some other cars.
Mine lost oil pressure but does not seem to the OPG per my tech.
It was making noise to yours before I shut it down
Fortunately still able to trade it as is so going to cut my losses this time .
I sent you a pm about my parts but a buddy just scooped it up for my cost -
He will get the block free

I had gotten a few messages the past few days. I just saw yours now. I'm still undecided on what Route I'm going to go yet, but that looked like a healthy setup.

Hi there


That noise is rod bearing knock, but I'd say you got lucky as in your video with some revs the knock softens and gets quieter which means you still have oil pressure.

If you'd spun a bearing completely it would be stuck on the crank and you'd have no oil pressure. STOP RUNNING THE CAR!

You could get very lucky and all you will need is now bearing shells and sump gasket. If the case I'd advice coated shells and uprated ARP bolts if your considering revving to 7k and over whilst boosted.

It has either being caused by the oil pump not supplying enough oil due to OPG failure or the RPM was too high, engine too hot and as such oil viscosity too thin causing the shells to wear which is what your seeing in the oil with the silver/copper glittery metal flakes.

Hopefully you caused no damage to the crank and a new set of shells and some labour will see you back on the road. I'd also be uprading the oil to a decent 5W-30.

Best of luck with it!

I haven't been running it anymore. Oil pressure was still reading normal the last time I had it running. Either way, when they fix it, I'm going to have OPG and crankshaft gear upgraded.

 

[D3adch1ld]

Its absolutely the oil. On boosted applications you shouldve been running at least 5w30. And my personal opinion, M1 isnt my go to. I use non API oils like RP HPS for the higher concentration of additives. My experience with M1 was that it would thin out and break down to the point of almost no recovery waaayyy before it was supposed to. HPS doesnt go through that, even the 5w20 remains constant after a prolonged period of sustained high rpms.

Its a really tough break and an eye opening reality that could happen to any of us. Thank you for sharing and hope to see your car running soon!!!

 

[sigintel]

It has either being caused by the oil pump not supplying enough oil due to OPG failure or the RPM was too high, engine too hot and as such oil viscosity too thin causing the shells to wear which is what your seeing in the oil with the silver/copper glittery metal flakes.

I'd also be uprading the oil to a decent 5W-30.

Are you sure?
I think its just mfg tolerances and running double the stock torque n loads on rods and pistons. Dont think he had anything wrong.
Maybe could have been from thousands of miles of wear and plenty of WOT on a not completely warm motor. Just like we all drive!
Depends on if the motor was heat soaked after consecutive hard pulls and driving very very hard for 40 minutes.
But if less than 20 minutes just idling in traffic and then a WOT on ramp... That oil was same temp as oil cooler. If cold tstat we are talking below 200 and maybe even into 180.
Hopefully he enjoy the hell out of it for all the thousands on miles before this!

 

[GHOSTRACER]

Sorry for your luck. After hearing the noise on your second video, thought it was a rod knock. I've "been there, done that, got the T-shirt", with my low 10 second 98 Formula. I hope that everything works out in the end.

 

[zaquhree]

Its absolutely the oil. On boosted applications you shouldve been running at least 5w30. And my personal opinion, M1 isnt my go to. I use non API oils like RP HPS for the higher concentration of additives. My experience with M1 was that it would thin out and break down to the point of almost no recovery waaayyy before it was supposed to. HPS doesnt go through that, even the 5w20 remains constant after a prolonged period of sustained high rpms.

Its a really tough break and an eye opening reality that could happen to any of us. Thank you for sharing and hope to see your car running soon!!!

I agree with this. M1 doesn't have good shearing characteristics especially for a boosted car. I run 10W30 Ultra Platinum because it shows great shearing characteristics to maintain the viscosity.

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