GT350 Lug Nuts

[Bossing]

Honestly, for track use I would always recommend using the factory lug nuts. I would only go with non-OE lug nut if you absolutely had to. For example, aftermarket wheels or longer wheel studs. Using the OE Lug Nuts on the track eliminates certain variables that can come into play when attending a track event. Like losing the tool or special socket and/or braking the special tool or socket among several other unknowns.

You figure that Ford Performance has used the OE Lug Nuts on all of their development and demo vehicles that have been pushed to the limit by professional racers from around the world. If they are good enough for them, they have to have something right.

10-4. Thanks for the honest feedback!

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[ddub68]

I ordered these from summit racing. They have the same seating surface and look great. They are just a little bit longer length wise than the chrome OEM but black looks way better.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/gor-96643bdx/overview/

These work great too, not sure if the same ones but worth comparing:cheers:

 

[Zitrosounds]

Buhahaha. Then I'll stick with black annodized.

Also in replacing my lug nuts I am searching for black anodized exhuast tips. On my 15 GT I had the FP Borla exhaust with the black tips and it was killer. I just cant stand chrome. Any body? I wonder If I can have a local shop anodize the stock ones for me? HMM???

 

[Dig-It]

Honestly, for track use I would always recommend using the factory lug nuts. I would only go with non-OE lug nut if you absolutely had to. For example, aftermarket wheels or longer wheel studs. ...

So what do you recommend?

 

[nastang87xx]

I have a security lug on each of my wheels but when I go racing, I switch to the OE ones all the way around.

 

[tebeller]

Ordered the Gorilla 96643BDX ones just now. Hoping they are awesome. I'll have them in hand tomorrow!

 

[GT_Dave]

You can't beat the Gorilla Nuts, they are at least solid and stay consistent. The OEM nuts have that sheet metal jacket that will distort, more so with the 150 ft/lb torque specification. After a small number of wheel removals, they become a pain to use.

 

[RadBOSS]

The first and likely only mod I plan to do when I take delivery is to get rid of those hideous chrome nuts.

Anybody have any suggestions for replacements like maybe some red or black annodized lugs?

Careful what you wish for. For aluminum lug nuts the wheel studs will have to be much longer and the nuts as well. The reason being is the longer nut must engage the stud by 3 stud diameters minimum. You also need to use a anti-seize compound on the stud threads so as not to encounter thread galling, and lastly the specified torque will be about half of the specified steel to steel unlubricated studs / lug nuts specification

Also when you need to change the tires, you need to make sure the tire technician does not torque to factory spec, else he may likely strip the thread in the aluminum nuts.

So beware of what you are attempting and know the consequences.

 

[RadBOSS]

These work great too, not sure if the same ones but worth comparing:cheers:

See my other comment. The gorilla lug nut must be long enough to engage 3 thread diameters of wheel stud to match the strength of the steel nut to stud. That also means wheel stud length would need to be longer. Aluminum on steel usually needs anti seize applied to prevent thread galling. Lug nut makeup torque would be reduced by about 50% due to the anti seize lubricity.

 

[GT_Dave]

See my other comment. The gorilla lug nut must be long enough to engage 3 thread diameters of wheel stud to match the strength of the steel nut to stud. That also means wheel stud length would need to be longer. Aluminum on steel usually needs anti seize applied to prevent thread galling. Lug nut makeup torque would be reduced by about 50% due to the anti seize lubricity.

The Gorilla lug nuts are steel, better quality than the OEM nuts and engage as much thread as the factory. Not aluminum.

 

[RustedAngel]

Ive got the Ozmo Ti lugs on my R and run the appropriate anti-seize for Ti. The observed torque spec only reduces to 135 to reach an actual 150 per factory. Anti-Seize can vary of course. But it was not as drastic as one may think.

 

[RustedAngel]

Cool... I thought I heard somewhere that the R had longer studs.

It does. 3" on the front and 2" on the rear. The only time you'll have to worry about this in terms of lugs however is if you are installing an aftermarket wheel (such at the 6GR) due to the lack of the substantial mounting pad thickness the Carbon Wheels have.

 

[montreal ponies]

Ordered the Gorilla 96643BDX ones just now. Hoping they are awesome. I'll have them in hand tomorrow!

I just ordered those same ones, they'll be delivered at my friend's place in FL, and he'll bring them back to me next week.

 

[RadBOSS]

The point is being missed by some.

The precaution stated is that aluminum nuts require more grip length than factory steel lug nuts to develop the same strength as steel. So if one is foolishly buying 'factory length' aluminum lug nuts, your set up will not be as strong as the factory set up, unless you have longer wheel studs and longer aluminum alloy nuts.

For avoidance of doubt or misunderstanding grip length is the number of threads fully engaged on the wheel stud by the lug nut, not the total wheel stud length.

 

[RadBOSS]

The Gorilla lug nuts are steel, better quality than the OEM nuts and engage as much thread as the factory. Not aluminum.

How did you determine 'better quality'.

More stringent dimensional inspection

More precise machining tolerances

tighter controls on any heat treatment processes

heat lot control of the material

higher shear strength than the factory material

higher material quality

So that means Gorilla beats Fords quality and design requirements ... making the Gorilla product superior.

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